Dose Pipe Sutututu

I still apply a slight damper on it, so it's not so sensitive, which I assume most don't.

AC idle? no worries AC idle & big brap cams? no worries no hunting or stalling at the lights, etc. cold starts, warm starts, etc. so good! I don't get the whole dBw iS sLOw brigade, they clearly don't know anything!

Wish you did it sooner aye? How good is the idle control now? Not to mention the superior throttle control.

Because he wants to be a man.

Year of the Dragon, relax brah shit will get done and you'll be chopping cars with Borg Warner turbo(s).

Same

Or just buy a stock M2 or M4.

Double check with the guys at HFM, might be because they're using different rotors. Regardless, you can adapt the rear Brembos, that's the main point.

Apologies, totally missed that table in the previous post

How are your valve clearances?

@Pete Hoek looks good! Yeah the rears don't fit straight on, however HFM make a bracket to adapt the rear 350Z Brembos onto S/R chassis cars. They just released it too, so you're in luck! https://www.hfm.parts/shop/brakes/rear-brakes/340mm-rear-rotor-caliper-adaptor-s-r-chassis/

Way cheap! Hope you get that full amount and not a dollar less.

Nah mine is at 6700, best switch over when I over laid 2x runs with VCT on and off.

FWIW, Tao from Hypergear made over 500kW at the rear hubs with a stock plenum/intake manifold. I've done 407kW at the rear wheels with a stock plenum/intake manifold. Moving to a sexy looking Plazmaman plenum, I've a bit of boost response down low. Could make 1bar by 4100rpm before now it's about 4400rpm.

provided the you've work out the centre of the rack and positioned the wheel in the centre, then everything else is dependent on the alignment. (Not sure this is the correct way, but this is how I've done it with my own cars) Measure equal amounts of the exposed rack, this would be the centre. Now note where the wheel is in the car, and remove/adjust the steering wheel so it's also centred. I find with these old shit boxes, steering wheels have be removed, replaced, then returned back to factory for compliance reasons and/or previous owners have stuffed with them OR worse, cars have been binned into gutters so now the car "drives" straight with the wheel pointing in the wrong direction so people remove and re-centre wheels so it's perceived as centred.

Not related

Easier to pull the motor out

Have you tried a new CAS? torque going flat, then requiring massive amounts of duty cycle to close the gate leads me to believe your timing is all over the shop. Perhaps try to do a quick load hold and see if shit glows OR if your tuner is game hold a timing light on your balancer with the car loaded up (easier on a hub dyno, a bit scary on a roller) to see what the actual timing is. Another thought, post up your dyno pull ECU logs, sometimes you might have some weird sensor (like IAT doing weird shit) and there's an ignition compensation being applied and pulling out shit tons of timing. Another thought, valve float?

I've done the whole gear thing,the problem with gears is that your slapping it into an old housing that's worn and/or out of spec and it causes more issues than it solves Sure, buy a new OEM oil pump and slap in gears (I also did that 2nd time round), but why? You're already 3/4 of the way to a new Nitto pump (which I did with my 2nd built motor). TL;DR buy a Nitto pump.

Tbh, just install a Nitto oil pump. Don't bother with gears.

maybe useful or not useful but look into getting the Sportster GT not CS. GT version has a sub belt hole so you can use a 6 point harness, where as the CS doesn't have that. I've been looking into getting a pair for my shit box, however can't get over the total cost. Wanting to remove the fix bucket seat as I take my son around in the car at times and prefer easier access to the rear seat from the driver's side.

Nissan shit box things. Can't see any leaks from the heater hoses, anything behind the head, or engine bay. I suspect maybe it's a welch plug on the block near the flywheel area. Fk this car.

Pissed off the Nissan Gods by having a street car with working A/C

Bumping this thread, had the same stupid issue with my shit box, thanks @Jaredo for the instructions, no idea if you're still active here or not or have bought a M3 Competition and stopped playing with these shit boxes. For the past year or so, been bypassing the HVAC to turn on the A/C compressor via the Haltech keypad as I couldn't find a replacement thermistor to test. Most newer Nissans use a 6 pin one, these shit boxes use a 3x one. I found one on Aliexpress that "might" work however didn't end up getting it and went down the route of trying to fix it. So yeah, I removed the A/C Thermistor as per the above guide - it's a bit of a cnut of a job, however can be done with the dash still in. You can loosen the A/C evaporator enough to get a long set of pilers in to dislodge the probe from the core. I found it helpful to remove all 3x visible (larger) phillips head screw (with 10mm hex heads), then 2x smaller screws holding the housing together. Ended up using a 47uF 25V capacitor from my random box of electronics shit, (OEM is 32uF 25V). Soldered it back on, slapped the cnut back together, reassembled everything and prayed to the Nissan gods that this would fix it. And it did... And the gods punished me by making the car leak coolant from somewhere between the rear of the head & gearbox. I suspect the hardlines from the NEO motor has rubbed with the Nitto head drain. FFS. And yes that small sheet of particle board, ended up falling on my car and scratching the front lip as I was inspecting the coolant leak. Fk I hate this car.

So for the longest time, I used the Haltech canbus keypad to turn on or off the AC compressor because for some reason the HVAC controls kept turning the compressor off as soon as it went on. Turns out the stupid AC Thermistor BS had died like all the other Nissan shit boxes in the 90s shit box era. Been trying to find a suitable replacement but it's discontinued and the modern ones from other Nissans are 6x pin. Fear not, after mindless SAU research it turns out you can crack open the thermistor circuit and replace the fked cap, that I did (take note on that white piece of mdf). AC now working as expected and the HVAC controls work perfectly. Now the fun part, went to park up the shit box just then and now there's a pile of coolant. Seems like it's coming from somewhere between the motor and box, fk this piece of shit. Also as I was looking for the leak, that white piece of MDF I used as a makeshift shelf, it snagged on my shirt and landed on the bumper, taking a chuck of paint off. Lol. So TL;DR, AC fixed, new coolant leak and chipped paint off the bumper.