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Dose Pipe Sutututu

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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. Pull out the coils and spark plugs, place the plugs into each coil and rest them on the cam cover creating an earthing point. Remove the CAS from the motor however have it connected to the loom, power the car and manually rotate it and see if all cylinders are firing and if the fuel pump relay clicks over. A bit ghetto but does the trick when you're on a stock ECU as there isn't an easy way of viewing the data you need.
  2. Just a heads up, will be removed in a couple of weeks from the car. If you buy it now-ish at least you can see it running.
  3. I would get a modern turbo and not run a 0.63 choker rear housing, if you have a bit of cash spare go twin scroll. I dare say a GTX3071 in TS fashion with a 1.0x sized rear housing would make about the same power as your GT3076 but come on heaps earlier
  4. Generally you GTR boys mount the core in front of the condenser or on the passenger side because it fouls the stock gay valves
  5. As much as I support and recommend Adaptronic, a Haltech is so much faster to tune and get going when compared to an Adaptronic. The ECU Master range does look promising but never used it before, so means will need to spend time to acquaint myself with it. Haha thanks man, part of the club now I've outgrown the 440D Select and also over the idiosyncrasies involved with their software. Every time I set up the crank prime value it reverts back to a negative value approximately 4 to 6 starts, so these days I end up carrying the laptop with me to start the car lol.
  6. Of course! Can't wait for everyone to tell me it will "lose" tunes and for motors to spin backwards. Although I've tuned half a dozen of then and not a single car has issues
  7. Or you could buy off me for $800 and hustle $900 or more and pocket the difference. Buy low, sell high!
  8. I am back from 1 month of no SAU and car shit Adaptronic is coming out, and is now for sales. $800 for SAU members $850 for Facebook or Scumtree or eScum
  9. sounds like tuner is lazy to dial in the DC table on the haltech and wire in a rotary switch for boost trims
  10. Twin Scroll, Twin gates, modern turbo, working VCT
  11. Hey All, As you know, this is one mighty powerful ECU capable of running full flex, anti-lag, launch control, traction control, etc. Also has engine protection features, MAP predict for transient throttle - extremely powerful ECU. I have used it in my car and have tuned other cars running this very ECU. As my needs have changed, I am upgrading to an ECU that supports more features so this bad boy is up for sale, comes with: ECU itself Internal connector & harness (with quick release connectors for flex input, additional wheel speed sensor input, etc) USB port has been repaired and loads of glue has been applied on it (common issue with these ECUs) Price: $800 Location: Canley Vale, NSW Will remove from car after it has been demonstrated working, and will give you a bunch of other tunes too.
  12. Lovely fab work :) Boost doesn't kill motors, just keep the timing pretty sedate near peak torque and you could run close to 2 bar without it going bang on a NEO. FWIW, I did 1.8bar into a non-NEO motor and abused it on the track for ages till it lunched itself, however it had barely any timing in it in the mid range. Lastly, I would ditch the Z32 and run a HPX N1 card AFM as it doesn't suffer from reversion like the Z32 does.
  13. Regardless of NEO or non-NEO the RPM where it is enabled or disabled is 100% configurable if you're not using a PowerFC or Stock ECU. The window where it stays on should be tuned till when torque starts to decay, of course this is all dependant on what parts have been bolted to the motor. Generally for me, I will do one run with it turned off and one run with it turned on past max torque ie close to red line and overlay the derived torque graph. The intersection point is optimally where it is turned off. Also once off, the motor will happily take more timing
  14. MK7, they're fast man! Going to upgrade the missus car to that when we get back from our trip! Will probably take the daily to the track more than the boat LOL
  15. haha nice plug, just saw the site go live and all over social too
  16. perhaps make a splitter Bill, that would help so there's no need to reduce the ARB hardness
  17. hahaha damn, I've seriously done something wrong then Can't even get under 1m8s at Wakefield Park where a Golf R can do the same time... new setup should be ready for July battles, I hope that changes my mind. Try softening up your front ARB to reduce understeer?
  18. Fixed up my cold start because it was bothering me, although the ECU will be upgraded and the tune will pretty much useless going to a different brand - but yeah, cold autumn morning and it fires first go now Yes my tacho is fuuarked.
  19. If you ran it on the dyno with smaller street tyres it will read higher
  20. I would go GTX3576R and a nice 1.xx rear divided housing. Twins are not responsive, nor are they great for transient response. You need a good twin scroll setup, from what you may have there - it "could" be a dinosaur single scroll setup with a turbo from the 1990s.
  21. Decided not to upgrade my car to something sensible because I came up with a great idea to get the missus a Golf R as a daily So... R33 might get more mods before it even sees the dyno (if ever) lol
  22. Plazmaman has released a billet, CNC machined runner intake manifold and plenum kit. I might just get it for the sake of it, bring on no power gains and more lag! Lol
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