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Dose Pipe Sutututu

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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. You'll need collars with Subaru if I remember correctly, just get S15 450cc ones. Easier as people sell them for about 150$ for a set of 4x.
  2. DW side feeds are decapped and drilled JECS injectors. Back in the days they used to buy used 370cc JECS injectors to remanufacture into their version of 740/850/1000 etc. Five-O are exactly the same, if you ever get a set look at them using a magnifying glass and you'll see marks similar of a bench grinder or belt sander. Also, side feeds don't have stainless internals so when you start introducing fuel such as E85 then generally seize up after much use if you don't use any ethanol addictive or run normal gasoline through them. I've tuned several cars with those DW and Five-O water canons, generally they're ok when new but after 1 or 2 years the flow rates between the injectors start to vary dramatically. Only side feeds I would use are stock ones or Nismo 740cc. Avoid DW or Five-O if you don't feel like rebuilding your motor.
  3. Ditch the MAF and go to a MAFless setup, too many issues with modified cars and MAFs, yes they're "better" at calculating airflow, etc. but it's not worth the headache. MAP sensor, IAT is pretty much all you need, if you're a little bit more cluey then barometer sensor (convert the onboard MAP sensor to it and run an external 4 bar) is good too, but generally most street cars/weekend circuit cars are at sea level.
  4. Even with twins, you'll get fisted for height, noise, emissions, tint, aftermarket suspension bits, blah blah blah.. Just go single, quiet exhaust, make everything black and never worry about 1 out of 2 of your turbos blowing seals or exploding. Also you'll have better heat management going single.
  5. With the cost of brand new injectors these days, it's silly to buy a set of 6x used 450cc S15 injectors (they're 480cc at 3.5bar, at 3bar they're 450cc) and get them cleaned, serviced with new seals, pintle caps etc. Just get a cheap $90 top feed rail, and get yourself 6x new top feed 1/2 height injectors (approx 45mm o-ring to o-ring).
  6. Does the CAS on this motor have a plastic cover and the old motor has a CAS with a metal cover with a Mitsubishi logo on it? (Or other way around) If so, reverse all the pins on the CAS connector so 1 2 3 4 becomes 4 3 2 1.
  7. looks like it might dose good once you put in heaps of boost
  8. Find a motor from an auto 4x door or an auto Stagea (that's what I did), but because I'm an idiot I decided to rebuild a perfectly good motor Lolololol. You should be able to pick one up for under $1500, also I suggest a new head gasket, ARP studs and your vanilla 100k service on it.
  9. could get a stant cap
  10. Yeah throw that Nismo cap in the bin. Yeah raising the boiling point of your cooling system by using a higher pressure radiator cap is not advised, as you'll end up in a big mess. Close to OEM pressure is the best, you don't want that 20+ year old heater core or water lines going bang, if your water is boiling then there are other issues. No point putting on a stronger cap.
  11. Typical Skyline ownership, when my motor exploded I was going to strap and strip the car. Somehow, a few cans later a few drunken discussions with people I ended up spending triple the car's worth and now have a built motor and a barely working car LOL.
  12. make sure you get a new radiator cap, the Nismo caps will leak.. I recall I needed a Tridon CB16110 or so, can't recall.. just double check yourself. I know PWR recommend Stanton caps
  13. okay fine.... let's be sensible. I will sell you my built RB25DET NEO setup (built motor, turbo setup, gearbox, diff, ECU, loom) for $15k Install that, put E85 instant 400kW+ Get bored, upgrade to a GTX3582R Gen 2 make ~500kW Deal?
  14. sell it, buy Golf R, exhaust, intake, flash chop mild GT-Rs at the lights
  15. Yeah PWR aren't known for their good welds, but their radiators beast (well the cores are). My PWR radiator welds look pretty shit too, when you compare it to anything that comes out of Plazmaman or Hypertune.
  16. Should Google Koyo Radiator leaking, there was a period where their QA slipped away and every so often a core would leak after a few months. I'm assuming it's back to normal again now.
  17. I see many WTAC and circuit cars all running either Plazmaman or Hypertune or PWR. Haven't seen many with Nismo or GReddy cores, I would base my decisions on that to be honest.
  18. Stock motor, R33 GTS-t S2 with Sunroof record?
  19. That's another option, however looking at all WTAC and circuit cars - do you see many with Koyo? That's why I ended up with a PWR lol... poor analysis. I run the 42mm because I wanted to keep my OEM fan and shroud, the 55mm requires OEM shroud and fan delete.
  20. PWR radiators are fantastic, I tracked my 370kW+ GTS-t piece of shit on a 40 degree day in 2016 and water temps never exceeded 110 degrees with only a baby 19 row Mocal oil cooler. In the past, I ran an ASI yumcha radiator and water temps would peak 120 very easily on a 30 degree day. Only real world data I have, now I've upgraded to a 25 row Setrab oil cooler with the same radiator - shit box has yet to see the track but I can imagine lower water temps and lower oil temps as I've deleted the water/oil heat exchanger.
  21. big dollar setup, will go like a cut snake!
  22. Baller! Owns a skyline (not a bicycle or an eco car) and can brunch on activated lentils with pink Himalayan salt ???
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