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Dose Pipe Sutututu

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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. And Nistune, although "old" still supports flex, reverse flex, launch control and very rudimentary engine protection such as cutting RPM when coolant temp is exceeded, OR cutting fuel when the TP Load limit is breeched. PFC (for me personally, this is my personal opinion) should be a last option.
  2. Ball bearing will have much better transient response, you can alleviate surging with lower DC when coming onto boost.
  3. Or get a Toshi remap, he sockets the ECU and pops in his own tunes which are made for Australian fuel and climate. He pulls out timing and moves the TP Load cut higher up so you won't get that dreaded "rich and retard" as many call it.
  4. hey mate - I don't ship overseas also I've stopped supplying parts to SAU members, sorry mate
  5. Skids keep Australia moving, provides jobs for Australians. Vegans and bicycles don't.
  6. Didn't see any geo tags in Mexico
  7. Pistons and rods are well priced! Try pop them on those scumbag filled Facebook group pages. Don't meet at your house meet like at a petrol station to do the sale and come in a shit car.
  8. You'll find the HC+ are better than the HC800, although all the Australian resellers will say "they're the same", yet when you look at the HC+ it is made in Japan and the HC800, well are made in Thailand And yes, the HC+ perform better too. Have used both HC800 and HC+ so yeah, good choice on the HC+
  9. I concur with everyone else as I assembled my boat anchor.
  10. Yeah the Nismo and Kaaz oil seem to make the diff super "chattery". Most likely because it contains less friction modifiers. I've use the same LSD oil and it is much quieter on the street, however I'm thinking it's probably not a good thing either as the discs are slipping rather than resisting to provide the lock as it's supposed it (this is purely bro-science at its finest lol)
  11. Like a boss! Going to run a fuel cooler? Fuel might get a bit warm with those heaters haha
  12. Will be fine, DW200 will do 355 L/hour at 0psi so that's 5.92 L/min. Now I have 1550cc Bosch injectors by 6. At best they would be at 70% DC (I reckon less) so that's 6.5 L/min fuel consumption at max load. This means at max load at x rpm I would drain the surge in 54 seconds. Now there isn't a road straight and long enough to have the motor running at a fixed rpm at max load for even more than 20 to 30 secs at best. The only time I could see this happening is on the dyno load holding at x rpm and y load for a good minute lol. I still need a surge tank, I found at Wakefield at times the motor would cut out at the back straight when the car had less than a 1/4 of a tank left. Twin internal pumps won't fix that also I won't have a line to run the flex sensor without needing a bypass.
  13. It's fine Mick, I'm not copying Paul's set up as I don't intend to run a big lift pump so there's no need to run a bypass on the flex sensor. I'm sure his set up is amazing and he has spent heaps of time and money on it but I don't need a set up of that calibre. Running a flex sensor between a surge tank and the main tank is fine, it's not pressured and the lift pump would be a DW200 or so, meaning the flex sensor itself won't be any form of restriction between the two. Yes you can run the flex sensor on the rail return line back to the surge tank with a bypass like Paul but there's no need for my set up. And yes I've done the maths there's no need for me to have a massive lift, there's no possible road or race track that can drain the 2.5L surge tank with my mediocre power producing RB, don't intend on making anything more than 450kW (nice to have power) but realistically about the 400kW mark is good anything more will be hard to handle on the track.
  14. Yes that is correct only for the R34 GT-t, R33 GTS/-t only had them post fuel rail. Mine is deleted because I placed my flex sensor there initially but after all the issues its a straight hose from the FPR to the return.
  15. Just a stock venturi Phil, that will stay as I will be running a DW200 lift pump in future. I have a Radium Fuel Pulsation Damper (FPD) which has helped with fueling on cruise areas of the map. Before I had to dial in heaps of fuel to remove the sputtering and now those issues are some what gone. I haven't had the chance to drive the car after the flex sensor was removed but I can only imagine it would run a bit better as the FPR is actually working properly now.
  16. Good point, there will be times the surge overflow will dribble out fuel. If that's the case I'll just pop it on the feed side, tank -> lift pump -> flex sensor -> surge tank.
  17. Single, sexy Curious to see what you'll make/do with the 2.6L and static cam - I might get bored one day (when the car is finished and running properly) and upgrade to a GTX3584RS too to be like you.
  18. plenty accurate, there's still going to be fuel flowing through it
  19. not a bad idea But I'm planning to do it between the surge tank's overflow back into the main tank, as the lift pump I'm planning to use would be only a DW200 so there won't be much of a problem where as now I'm using a Wallabro 460L and it's flowing quite a bit of fuel around the system.
  20. Flex Sensor Fridays... Deleted the karnt, had fuel pressure fluctuation issues and turns out this was the problem. Because I run a Wallahbro 460L there's a fair amount of fuel being circulated back through the return. With the flex sensor in line, I couldn't screw down the fuel pressure less than 2.6 bar (that's with the entire bolt pulled out of the FPR). Now that it is out, I can drop fuel pressure below 2 bar. For now it's out until I re-think my fuel system through.
  21. worth a shot lol.. I'm over mine but don't want to sell it for peanuts to little nubs on facebook.
  22. Wasn't intended to be a proper business. I just happen to have the right connections and out of my good will was helping out SAU members. However in light of a few experiences I am no longer supplying parts to SAU members as per my signature.
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