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Dose Pipe Sutututu

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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. tune related, what are your AFRs like? I suspect it is too lean now, do you have a wideband? log it... a simple, albeit lazy way to correct this is to reduce the size of your injectors in the ECU so it sprays more. Lazy mathematics say you would need to decrease your injector size by 7% (given the lazy way to go from 98RON to E85 is to reduce the injector size by 30%)
  2. Run full flex, pour in anything. Or just tune it on United and run aggressive O2 correction (higher correction threshold and slightly higher P & I on the closed loop setting) so when it's on Caltex it's not overly rich.
  3. Nissan manual advises to use gasket maker, so should be on point. I really hate putting it together.
  4. Haha mate he has more knowledge than anyone on this forum. Not to mention is a top bloke. Has sorted issues I've had with setup a at weird hours of the day even when I was on the dyno.
  5. Spent part of Sunday going through my collection of nuts and bolts from last year. Not fun, also turns out the service manual doesn't tell you of bolt lengths to use lol. Modified RWD pickup installed, one day this motor could go into a GTR lol.. 0.1L smaller but higher compression, has VCT, billet oil pump gears so it won't go bang! Installed water pump, ancillary bracket as well as the alternator. Whilst installing the water pump with gasket maker I then rummaged through the box and found a gasket for it lol.. too bad so sad. Another hiccup was that the Stagea engine mount brackets/arms are no good in the R33 so will need to source RWD ones. Then as I was installing the knock sensors followed by the OEM oil pressure sensor - I realised the NEO uses a different one so derp.. need a R33 one.
  6. Way too soft, I'm running 10/7 on MCA X-R and that's too soft for my liking. With some basic aero I would go even 12/9 and run softer ARB to promote roll for lateral grip.
  7. he was like Paul Version 1.0, twins, lag was life. Paul Version 2.0 is about usable power, better heat management and less homosexuality.
  8. Watch me make 450kW+ on a stock modified manifold ?
  9. Or a faulty sensor, usually (like 80% of the time it's the relay block). A few connectors and 1x 8mm bolt and replace it. Or somewhere down the line a very smart/stupid person installed a non ABS rear diff and installed a longer tail shaft.. thus the rear sensor is missing.
  10. Forgot to add: Stock OEM N1 Oil Pump Gears (from factory, not replacement ones that shatter like glass)
  11. Hey Peoples! Have some parts from my shit box, all these parts were removed from a working Auto RB25DET NEO motor. Stock Used Parts: Cams (IN/EX) - $50 Cam Belt Sprocket & 2x plates (sits on crank) - $10 Cam Idler/Tensioner pulleys - $10 Valve Springs & Retainers - $50 Head Bolts, washers (aka head studs) - $50 Pistons, Connecting Rods (complete) - $200 Air Conditioning Pump & bracket - $100 Stock OEM Brand New Parts: Genuine Nissan RB25DET Head Gasket - $100 Genuine Nissan RB25DET Turbo Outlet Elbow & Dump Gasket $50 Genuine Nissan RB25DET Exhaust Manifold Gasket $50 Great for someone doing a basic rebuild or a slapper job OR someone wanting to pop in DET pistons into their DE motor. Will sell the entire lot for $400 Location: Canley Vale Price: $400 for the lot OR as itemised
  12. hahah yeah nah, these cars are prehistoric man!
  13. Decided the block should be painted black, so it got painted black. Also the stock pistons were given a clean, looking good. So I decided to get new rings, new ACL race bearings, new ARP rod bolts, new ARP 2000 mains, Spool crank collar, Spool Billet N1 oil pump gears installed and lastly the OEM water/oil heat exchanger was deleted. Motor is still stock lol. Special thanks goes to Matt at Redsun Motorsport & Mechanical for dealing with my bullshit and also pointing out some cock ups with a previous shop that did my crank collar install.
  14. No, there is no connection between the two. Most likely your ABS relay block is cactus and the previous owner or dodgy importer removed the ABS bulb.
  15. Any new oil is going to be better than the oil in your motor at the moment. Even a shitty bottle of 10W40 Magnetec will be better.
  16. And it was a fail like everyone else has predicted
  17. Or do what the Japs did, run dual plenums, dual ICs. That should help reduce the turbos "fighting" each other. It's just like when you see two cocks in one box.. doesn't work too well, you need one in the pink and the other in the stink so noone is fighting for it. My stance has been 1x hole 1x goal, ie single turbo!
  18. but isn't it racing pedigree? can't have non Japanese parts on your car.. make sure you're running an eManage.. will make more power. (jokes aside, good luck).
  19. Sell me your turbo setup for my stock RB25. Would be perfect for me (one day).
  20. He had a Haltech, he removed it because he thought the PowerFC is better. FWIW, my microwave at home has more features and computing power than a PowerFC.
  21. send me your map again, I'll have look if there's some silly business going on
  22. nice exhaust system looks like a few people with the same idea as I had initially.. still a cat in there? Can you post up a log from the halaltech when you come on boost say in 3rd or 2nd, etc.? I suspect could be timing related as there's a table that allows you to retard timing as you come on/off the throttle to make the transients smoother.
  23. R35 AFM might tap out unless you run it in a larger pipe say 3.5" or run it on the cold side before the TB. I did a S15 running a R35 AFM, although in a 3" pipe without any air straighteners installed and it was hitting 4.8V each time it came on boost for a car only making ~240kW. I prefer the HPX version of the R35 card as it supports more air flow in the same pipe.
  24. He has an auto, would not surprise me.if there are parts of the map that have timing pulled out where the gear changes happen.
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