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Dose Pipe Sutututu

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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. BUMP Take the head (complete with covers) and block (no sump, no pickup, no ancillaries, no water outlet) for $200
  2. no way.. I would never use a tyre that's more than 4~5 years old. they turn super hard.
  3. The Type-D pads are a progressive pad rather than a bitey pad, however won't fade as fast as other pads. John Richardson and Tim Burt both use them on their track cars and both love them. However it's not everyone's cup of tea though. I also use them, but it's true they do lack that initial "throw you into the dash" feeling but, that's often as seen as a false security. With more weight shift leads to more snap over steer. Useless rambles on a Friday afternoon as usual lol.
  4. I rather a Nistune over any PowerFC any day of the week. If someone gave me a PowerFC I would throw it into the bin. Nistune supports flex, allows you to adjust dwell, allows you to adjust decel timing, allows you to enable anti-lag bang bangs, has launch, controls boost.. PowerFC has a useless hand controller.. so useless it can't even be used to unblock a toilet.
  5. Mishi and Fenix all china... If you're spending over $400.. might as well go Koyo or PWR
  6. Get the Worley one if you're not making massive power. I used to track my car with that and was decent, until I starting making modest power. Just file down the thermoswitch port down flat, they are always jagged and don't seal too well out of the 3 I've seen and installed.
  7. get launch control with anti-lag setup on the Nistune, car will sell quicker if it shoots flames and goes bang bang.
  8. wow... I remember this car back in the days.. can't believe still same owner
  9. oh fuuark, sorry man.. I kinda feel bad for saying what I said
  10. Jesus that's lean, way too lean. Surprised that motor didn't explode on the dyno.
  11. shit getting real! good work, no point have loads of unusable power.. problem with many Skyboats and they end up having a cry when they're beaten by a Golf GTi
  12. Agreed, INVO is no where near the likes of a RS-3. The only competition in the Nitto range to the RS-3 are the NT05, however they also need a fair whack of heat before they can perform
  13. It is, however you tune it so it's nearly 100% at the AFR you wish and then allow maximum of sat -/+5% correction either way. I've been doing this for all the cars I've tuned for the track and "seems" successful, besides mine which exploded on the street lol. Ideally fuel should be trimmed via baro, iat, and fuel temp but at times budget setups don't have the necessary sensors we all wish for.
  14. weighs, strong auto correct lol. Yeah man, paint + stickers. Spend the rest on cocaine and strippers.
  15. Don't forget, R34 uses 14mm bolt holes.. so.. the AOR kit will need bolt sleeves OR tapped out to accept 14mm bolts. Then.. your brake balances will be aids, we have set this up on a S15, running a BM57 and R33 GTS-t rear calipers. Car doesn't stop as well as my piece of shit GTS-t rust bucket running just basic 350Z Brembo calipers (same shit as R34 GT-R just offset a few mms out), not to mention it weights more.
  16. Why no closed loop correction in heavily load areas? I set my closed loop all the way to 2 bar.
  17. don't be gay, leave it stock and get better pads like Intima SR pads I can supply for less than most vendors
  18. It's interesting to say at the very least, I personally don't tune like that. I'll provide screen shots of a S15 I did about 2 months ago with a halaltech when I'm home. I personally did not follow the same approach as your tuna.
  19. the scalar is interesting.. at 80~90% of ethanol registered it should be 100% of the compensation table, yet you tuna has used 133% Meaning it would be your base tables + 1.3x of the compensation table applied on top for fuel. Hopefully the timing table isn't like that, because well... it's an interesting way to tune.
  20. Plumb both gates after the cat.. so on cruise and stuff all the exhaust gasses go through the cat, when you crack the gates it just bypasses the cat. Yes you might have some restriction but much better than having everything going into the cat(s). This is what I've done to mine, but not at your power levels. 3.5" from turbo to cat, then after the cat it goes all 3". Surprisingly it still was able to put out a basic 372kW, would have made more but I would have blown the stock motor much earlier on.
  21. but how would your wideband determine you've over boosting? or that you're running way to much timing? And how would your wideband and or your map sensor determine you've over boosted and cut fuel/igniting to your motor? Pointless having engine protection that's not protecting a basic thing like exceeding load, in this case boost.
  22. then your car hits 2 bar, ecu has no idea boom.
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