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Dose Pipe Sutututu

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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. wanna sell me your sump and oil pick up from your blown motor?
  2. Cheap shit wheels on a nice GTR, what a waste. Those wheels would be mint on a shit box Honda though :
  3. nice HICAS junk has been eliminated, time for MCA Blue coilovers Then a 1.5way LSD Skip the anti roll bars, often incorrectly called sway bars. No need, just makes the car super twitchy. You need the slight roll for grip. I did the whole soft spring rates and stupid thick ARBs and the car was great for normal driving but on the track or at high speeds there would be no stability. Since then I've set both ARBs to the softest setting and run pretty stiff springs and the car handles very neutral.
  4. you can do anything remote tune, just as long as it runs windows not dos Haltech is so easy to work with, you send TPS of 99 or greater to log, do a run replay the run, adjust repeat. Makes tuning child's play.
  5. road tuning a Haltech is much easier than a PowerFC you have more data to log, more safety features to keep the motor together.. PowerFC has none of that, it's like trying to receive an e-mail on a Nokia 5110.
  6. Work CR Kiwami, looks tough, is light, won't shatter like glass.
  7. hrms.. good question, if not just do a screen shot of the timing table and roughly tell me which load cells it's hitting and/or what TP Load is roughly equal to what boost
  8. The best way to lower a car is by using drop spindles. Stock geometry!
  9. Send me your tune file, I'll see what's going on there. When I tune for track cars I always tune the entire mid range below MBT, taking at times 3 to 5 degrees out. This limits the amount of peak torque the motor can make thus keeping it together a little longer. Yes EGT goes up, but just richen it up close to 11 afr (on gasoline scaling) for E85. On 98RON I drop it under 11 afr. I don't aim for a flat AFR which most Internet experts like.
  10.  before motor and turbo both exploded LOL Done by Havoc Fabrications
  11. Maybe restriction on cooling and or exhaust flow, I found the stock manifold starts to glow about 300kW+ Might was glowing like the sun lol... once I moved the gate onto the manifold, the glow decreased, reduction in restriction and heat then motor just breathed better netting a 40kW gain (although turbo was revised, same compressor but CBB centre and updated rear housing by HyperGear)
  12. I rather a Nistune, better features than a PowerFC and supports full flex unlike PowerFC that doesn't do anything.
  13. You upgraded to a PowerFC is like me upgrading my Samsung S6 to a Nokia 5110. You're building a $10k motor and it's being controlled by technology that's more primative than my microwave.
  14. Very first mod, hicas eliminator (don't use the lock bars, the OEM HICAS ball joints are homo) Second mod, coilovers like MCA Third mod, rear camber arms, rear traction rods, front castor rods Four mod, 1.5 way LSD Followed by better brake pads all round, like Intima SR pads, fresh fluid new lines Then go nuts with the power mods.. in that boat you'll need about 300kW+ for it to move.
  15. if you need a Plaz cooler you know who to ask
  16. will need fill custom dose pipe, going to be hard to find a 10" pipe and bends lol
  17. 2JZ, then a GTX3582 and 450kW daily stock motor
  18. ^solid response and couldn't agree more, man how did you squeeze in toilet breaks and deal with hydration? haha.. I did 3 cars in a day once too when I hired Mark's dyno at MRC. Nearly collapsed from heat stroke and dehydration.
  19. Maybe was made for Australian roads lol... to offset the insane curvature of the surface haha
  20. either buy a compatible IAT sensor and weld it on the cold side of your IC (never install it into your plenum like the OEM 32/33 GTR as it heat soaks) and run it back to your ECU or just a basic gauge on eBay with an open sensor (probably wrong term used) ie fast sensor not the solid ones that react slow similar to your oil/water sensor
  21. Would have blown up quicker if I went to car park meets, and Krispy Kreme cruises. Definitely would have blown up years ago if I went to a JDMST End of Year Meet lol
  22. wow... mine has been 3 months and it feels like ages - car is covered in bird shit and dust too (if that adds any bonus points).. also accidentally scrapped the side of the car with the engine stand LOL
  23. Get a good intercooler, many skimp on this and wonder why they hit bottle necks. If budget is a concern, look at the HDi GT2 FMIC Kits for Skylines. Decent yet budget friendly, although don't expect Plazmaman performance or quality.
  24. No, because they have more variables to combat such as emissions, noise, heat, longevity, baro, air density, air temperature, gearing, list goes on. Also they go into every single cell and tune it, RPM vs. Load, then repeat for different conditions and the motor is attached directly to a dyno in a controlled test environment. Tuners of modified cars are merely 10% of what those Engineers are. Don't be fooled by what shops will say/do... if they were to "tune" your car like a proper car manufacturer it would cost in the 10s of thousands -> 100s of thousands.
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