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Dose Pipe Sutututu

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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. Noone would ever spend 6 hours of a 8 hour working day doing a cruise tune. You can do the entire off boost area in about 2 hours loading up all pointed and all rpm points within reason. Then another 1 to 2 hours doing power runs provided there are no changes need to cam timing etc. If your tuner is saying he or she spent 3 entire days tuning then I call bullshit. I can understand 2 full entire days if that involved parameter settings, scaling of all tables, setting up all inputs and outputs, scaling sensors, setting up the duty cycle vs rpm vs load vs ethanol concentration. I suggest you secretly install a dash cam in your car and prove me wrong, because I tune cars and I consider myself slow and take my time and even so I would never spend 3 entire days. These aren't F1 high strung high comp motors and even so, 90% of tuning shops don't even have the appropriate data acquisition tools/sensors
  2. Need Plazmaman kit - I know someone who gets great deals *wink wink*
  3. wow, a S2 R34 GT-t!!!! #hasahelicaldiffforskids
  4. Twin GT-RS turbos #twinsforresponse Then anti lag plus nitrous to get them on before 4k rpm. Get a HyperGear high flowed turbo, will exceed your power goals.
  5. wow you destroyed yours well lol.. here's mine in comparison, but mine shot bits of engine and took out the turbo too lolol
  6. What are your intake temps? if you're hitting over 60, time for a new FMIC. You'll be surprised at the power gain to be had with decent IATs.
  7. He will race one day (when he grows some balls) haha... However you'll find on E85 fuel temperature isn't so crucial
  8. diesel won't ignite like petrol as the flash point is near 90 degrees and also the flame speed is pretty slow so usually in accidents it won't ignite and/or go bang like petrol once it vapourises
  9. ahh you see, if you pull timing you'll get boost even sooner with the expense of not reaching MBT for that RPM at that Load point..
  10. What I was recommending is how to preserve the bottom end by limiting torque, so once you past peak torque you can go nuts with the boost and or timing to make the numbers. This is a technique good EVO tuners use to stop the pencil conrods snapping with stock EVOs making 300kW+
  11. Do it, just don't put too much timing towards and at peak torque. I would even take timing in the middle and ramp it once torque decays.
  12. It's not just about how much power a cooler allows a motor to make, it's more so how efficiently the cooler can cool down the charged air and also how much of it can flow through the core. Yes a China dim sim sui mai special may flow nearly identical to say a Plazmaman cooler however would definitely cool way less if you measure the IAT post cooler. For each run or pass you'll notice the intake temps will climb however first pass everything seems normal and this is where you'll hear people say bs like "I made 500kw on the stock cooler" then I day sure, let's increase the overall ramp duration on the dyno so something like 11km/h per sec so it's a nice and long run. I highly doubt the numbers would be identical at that point. So yeah, long story short get a good cooler.
  13. I know the topic is about fuel cooler placement however check out oem coolers, they have good mounting points and have shielding.
  14. I guess so, as a boat anchor (small boats) or a door stop, could also use it for bicep curls
  15. also what potato still runs HICAS on a fairly worked car? (referring to the car with the fuel cooler mounted under the spare)
  16. Looks much safer behind the diff like the above photo. Flying off the track and hitting a ripple strip with the fuel cooler exposed next to the chassis rail would be dangerous.
  17. Take it to someone else.. there are some interesting tunes from said workshop. In have a Nistune file for a R33 they did, interesting at the very least. Jono would have seen the same tune as well. For now pull back your boost before you lean out a lunch a motor
  18. Go bigger, do it right do it once. In a years time you'll be going those Aussie karnts were right, my fuel setup is too small.
  19. MAP sensors won't adjust for air flow, an AFM or MAF will though. Throw it on the dyno, check AFR, check where peak torque is, pull timing and it makes more power then continue to do so. Pull timing and it's losing power then add more however watch out for knock and also EGTs.
  20. You need a new tuner if that's the case. Saving a few hundred now isn't a saving when you're up for a $6k engine rebuild.
  21. It's not Facebook so you get proper answers here, with experience and evidence supplied Straight bolt on for R34s, R33/32 you need to enlarge the mounting hole to 14mm from 12mm. http://www.trak-life.com/diy-350z-brembo-brakes-conversion-nissan-skyline-r33-gts-t-gts-gts-4/
  22. Buy front 350Z Brembos and use 350Z Discs.. works out cheaper, uses the same brake pad as well DB1520 or IN1520 when referring to Intima Brake pads. Unfortunately the rears don't fit.
  23. wow, someone is balls in now - full commitment haha
  24. expensive way to delete the GT-R resistor pack... solder & heat shrinks normally would be about $0.50
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