Dose Pipe Sutututu

Waos, too much sexies in a thread.

run S15 injectors and bump up the base fuel pressure to 3.5bar using a good FPR such as a Turbosmart FPR 1200

R34 sidemount is too small, yes people have said "it works" I made xyz power blah blah.. but, go measure the IAT and I'm sure it's not ideal especially for E85. If the R34 sidemount is a must, I would install a cooling fan on top and trigger it by boost.. so once the turbo makes +ve pressure, kick on the cooling fan... pretty simple to do Get a boost gauge with alarm/alert.. set the alarm to go off at 1+ psi , connect the output to a relay, then to the cooling fan..

just add EFR TS

Another good reason why you should convert to a single twin scroll turbo setup as soon as you buy a GT-R

also moving the cas does not change the timing on the PowerFC.. you need to sync what the PowerFC is telling the car to do... playing around with the CAS blinding will result in this scenario: PowerFC tells motor 15 Motor is actually at 25 Go on boost, and blow motor because you're 10 degrees more than what you're supposed to be at Yes, you will now say "but the PowerFC numbers are changing as I play with the CAS" - that is correct as you play with the cas your motor behaves differently and then jumps into a different cell which may have a timing value of 20 degrees.. that is what you're reading.

I would use the R32 ECU over the Z32 ECU as it's more like for like.. Using the green led output to control the VCT OR the AC output (depending vehicle application). Yes people think the Nistune is a "hack" yet it has more features than a PowerFC, Microguess, etc. For less than a PowerFC you get: Full flex, with scaling Boost by ethanol content Launch control Basic engine protection strategies (coolant temp vs. engine RPM) Not to mention it runs flawlessly... all it needs is wideband o2 feedback and it's the perfect street ecu.

If you guys need Nistunes I have a tuner license, this means I can get boards/installation done by Matt @ Nistune much cheaper than others

you're an arsehole

But everyone on facebook groups just want loads of power on cheap tyres, stock LSD so they have a reason to whinge about no traction and how when they roll into 3rd their wheels spin.

Nooo, it's still a heap of shit. I hate the car.. it's rubbish.

Just delete them, go full flex tune.. less emissions than a Prius.. but is it legal? no.

Run some traction rods at the rear and extend them about 10mm each side. This effectively changes the arc of the suspension movement reducing camber and toe out ramp on suspension compression. Alternatively just raise the car till the control arms slightly point downwards (best) or completely flat (better).

no

shhuuuuuuuuu baby, from what I gather the G3SAT will dose like a bawse (from watching Jason Ferren's R31 Drift Wagon). Brah plenty of brake fluid left ulleh, when ize put new pads in dat brake fluid will be le tits. (brake fluid low because of worn brake pads and air in the ABS system from when I did the Brembo brakes up front, was full till I kicked off the ABS a few times then bleed some fluid and never bothered to refill it)

mateeeeeeeee I love bunnings Will be making a front splitter from marine ply.. will be solid, flexible enough and won't produce any "flutters" which can occur with shitty aluminium stance splitters. When there's enough air movement and it starts to flutter the entire splitter would rip off. Good explanation: Flutter is a dynamic instability of an elastic structure in a fluid flow, caused by positive feedback between the body's deflection and the force exerted by the fluid flow. In a linear system, 'flutter point' is the point at which the structure is undergoing simple harmonic motion - zero net damping - and so any further decrease in net damping will result in a self-oscillation and eventual failure. 'Net damping' can be understood as the sum of the structure's natural positive damping, and the negative damping of the aerodynamic force. Flutter can be classified into two types: hard flutter, in which the net damping decreases very suddenly, very close to the flutter point; and soft flutter, in which the net damping decreases gradually

fuuark that, big cams are gay on a stock motor.. I would go big cams if I had a built motor, solid lifters, cnc ported head, blah blah blah and rev it's mum to 10k rpm witha sequential box. But nah.. it's a stocker heap of shit. Goal: 400kW stock bottom end.

Another thing I noticed was the catch can actually had oil in... never used to blow oil after the last track day it gained about 50mL.. in the scheme of things, that isn't much.. but in the history of owning the car it never blew any oil. So yeah, kind of a good thing the head is coming off.. I think the Edward Lee's SE with 500,000km+ on the motor needs some new valve seals. Let's see how the budget goes, but I don't want to do anything fancy to the head, just a tickle, new seals, new springs/retainers and slap her back on with "maybe" some baby cams to flatten out the torque.

Not at all man

Have started to pull off shit, compressor cover nearly off bar one freaking bolt. It's really tight and next to the engine mount.

Money well spent would be a flex sensor, a Walbro 460 and E85 friendly injectors.

a C63 AMG? lol

Tried to sell it working, no one wanted it.. now the turbo exploded there's pretty much no chance of selling it. And, if I'm changing the turbo again it's going larger and I might just like the car a tiny bit more.

What worked MCA X-Series Coilovers in 10/7 although Josh advised they were too stiff but I like it how it is Dropping the stiffness of the ARBs - car is now less twitchy Adding more caster to the front, it's now at 9 degrees Installing harden rubber subframe bushes (next time, I'm taking it to a shop, fuuark the DIY) Installing a proper HICAS eliminator kit 350Z Brembo Calipers 1.8bar through the motor worked great, 372kW and no boom. Moving the gate from the rear housing onto the manifold, less back pressure, less shit glowing = 372kW Yes, it was with a new turbo, but it had exactly the same SS2 compressor Moving from a journal bearing to a ceramic ball bearing CHRA same "response" BUT... night/day difference with transient response.. on/off throttle felt nearly like a NA Installing a PWR Radiator... dayammm.. 35+ degree day.. water temp was in check ALL DAY! What didn't work Running stupid thick ARBs with soft as shit springs and Bilsteins, car pitched too much and threw the weight towards the front and turned a perfectly good turn into a drift I was into the whole soft springs, stiff ARBs.. yeah it's great for street use but completely useless on the track Snapped about 3x sets of ARB link brackets when I either went on a ripple strip OR off the track because of the ARBs trying to attenuate the shock movement HICAS Lock bar, completely useless when your hicas ball joints are cooked Running an external gate off the rear housing, thought it was a good idea - nope.. on the dyno the collector/gate was glowing bright red Massive restriction there Gate/housing turned blue Car didn't want to make more than 327kW no matter how much boost/timing I threw at it Journal Bearing turbo, yes it made the power, yes it came on by about 4.1k RPM.. but the transient response was aids. China Radiator, did the job on the street/dyno/cooler track days.. but on a 35 degree day no way. What went bang 1st NPC Carbotic Clutch, turns out previous owner installed the wrong bearing carrier so the clutch was essentially "riding" itself to death Massive thank you to Scott @ Western Clutch - because of my laziness to do the clutch myself the 2nd round I decided to take it to Scott He discovered someone used a VL bearing carrier, it's too tall Clutch Fork was cracked Clutch pivot was fractured Hypergear SS2 Turbo, turbine exploded Completely my fault, they were never meant to be running 1.8bar err day.. but I did A bunch of ARB link brackets Both rear hubs, they're cooked.. makes so much noise now - powahz life ABS Unit died, has been replaced Head Gasket, it's pushing heaps of coolant and exhaust gasses these days when I run 1.8 bar (did run) lol What's Happening? Turbo will be taken off and sent back to Hypergear Head is coming off for a tickle, new valve seals, springs/retainers (maybe) cams... maybe... just tiny ones. New metal headgasket Replacing rear hubs Installing rear traction rods aiming 400kW+ on the stock bottom end

If you want reassurance go onto RB Tech Talk page on Facebook. Every uneducated numpty will tell you it made their car go harder