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Dose Pipe Sutututu

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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. PM me of what you're after, i.e. 76mm or 100mm, Raw or Stealth Black or Polished, IAT or no IAT, and postcode so I can work out freight
  2. man, the prices that NEOs go for are crazy. Might as well buy new pistons, rods and DIY
  3. WTB (Syd): RB25DET NEO or Basic Built RB25DET Yes, blew my motor and it took out my turbo too lol. Tao from @hypergear found bits of piston inside the turbo housing lol.. now it all makes sense! Anyhow, she lasted about 500 laps of Wakefield with heaps and heaps of abuse. Now what I'm after: * Stock RB25DET NEO (no coldside/hotside needed) or * Basic Built RB25DET motor (no coldside/hotside needed) or * some one build me a motor lol (would do it myself but I'm space limited now since moving into a town house). Needs to be in Sydney so I can inspect and do a compression test and if you're able to deliver that would be tops top although I'm able to pick up but might take some time organising people and a trailer blah blah. Dose on!
  4. and when someone sees a Plaz cooler they know you're serious Anyhow, I can get you one for a decent price however the team there is flat out catching up on jobs so it will be at least 2 weeks before you can get your hands on one as they're all made to order.
  5. Just do it as per the diagram for now In future, delete the PCV
  6. they're not bad as a tyre, but driving my friend's S15 with Z221 it's like day and night difference lol
  7. Salem! I usually get about 3~4, of course the fronts go the fastest on the R33 boat.
  8. I would trigger your new relay setup using the trigger wire on going into the OEM relay. This means you're not dependant on that fuse and relay circuit, ie removing another point of failure.
  9. Most cops will try and defect you, I had to explain to one these are race tyres and the tread was (at the time) still above the 1st indicator. Note, with NT01 you can drive them past the tread, there's a 2nd indicator in the form of a circular indent.
  10. ^ on the money... If you're serious about track work, just delete the return pipe into the intake all in total and just run a catch can with a breather.
  11. Standard exhaust manifold is too restrictive. I'm sure you'll ignore my post Adrian, but at least others reading will get some information. Moving an external gate from the turbine house onto the stock manifold netted an easy 20kW on my car with the same timing, same tune put out 350kW. The motor than was happy to take more timing as well due to the lower back pressure on the exhaust side. Overall with the same SS2 HyperGear turbo (except the centre being ball bearing instead of journal) I went from 330kW to 372kW and that's with me stopping myself pushing the stock motor further.
  12. A baffled catch can is the best option however if you're a tight skyline owner like myself a basic catch can with steel wool stuffed into it will also do the trick. If you want, delete the PCV as well, block it plenum side and put a bung on the side of the cam cover. Then just run the breather hose from cam cover to catch can, then catch can to intake.
  13. LOLOLOL.. yeah and watch a few rods go through the block when the rest of the Ringlands are smashed and snag on the cylinder walls lololol
  14. don't chu cum preaching that BW EFR devil's talk like last time lolololol
  15. I'm skipping that and going straight to motor/box out, then I'll look at the head and you can come over for some beers and laugh... I must say, it has survived many many many many track days and numerous anti-lag 2-step launches too (on private property ahem..)
  16. Tao from @hypergearfound bits of piston inside the turbo's turbine housing. So the turbo failure wasn't actually from over speeding the wheel, nor was it from all the anti-lag launches, nor was it from the ignition cut only rpm limiter, it was from my engine spraying out bits of motor shrapnel. Last time I did an oil change, I did recall similar pieces in the sump but pass that off as oil pump fragments lol. So yeah, motor is coming out and not sure on what to do.. There's the NEO option which is easy, but Tao is sending me back even a larger turbo so that might go bang too, or do I just go fark it RB30? Missus won't be happy with any option except NEO because it's our money not just mine lol.
  17. So yeah update, both intake and exhaust manifolds are off, so is the wiring loom for the engine...say what? let's play guessing games for the below image.
  18. Best mod for N/A R32~34 is a nitrous setup... however you'll need something to retard the timing when you squirt in the nitrous, simple setup could be a Nistune with the latest feature pack and trick the ECU to spray more fuel & pull timing out (hooked up through the flex fuel 0-5V input) each time you feed the nitrous.
  19. Stage 3 flywheel with Stage 7 pressure plate and Stage 11 friction plate...
  20. Ahhh Jez tuned it, would say the tune is pretty decent and he stopped pushing it further because it's a stock R33 motor with the stock head gasket. I've found mine started to push coolant about 340kW and at 370kW it would push so much air into the coolant system and I'll lose about 2 to 3L of coolant per track day haha. I suggest doing the head gasket at the very least before pushing it further.
  21. ^ I like the runner design, looks awesome... doe it clear all the ancillaries ?
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