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Dose Pipe Sutututu

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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. Can be done with motor held up by gearbox and gearbox on some form of stand as well as those on strut top engine stands (don't know what they're called) then drop the x member followed by the sump. Easier motor out lol
  2. refund it.. useless ECU Get a proper ECU or get your stock one modified to accept a Nistune board. I can get it done cheaper than RRP or supply you the board to solder yourself - however I suggest the soldering done by Nistune themselves as the can bench test the ECU prior shipping it back.
  3. Phil's S15 has 25psi going into it.. no issue what so ever.. I suspect boiling fluid and you're heating up your ABS unit. Bleed ABS unit easy, crack open the lines up top of the unit and bleed as you would bleed a set of calipers without a one-man bled tool, i.e. pedal down, crack line, close line, pump pedal, pedal down, crack line, close line.. ra ra ra.
  4. DIY it man, local cylinder shop here charged one of the trak-life cars $270 to lightly skim the head and install new valve springs.. we took off and supplied the head to them with valve seals, springs.
  5. your stock FPR regulates pressure negative to the body is fine
  6. Did you wrap brake lines near your turbo setup? Also worthwhile making a basic heat shield using ACL shield to cover the ABS unit. Sounds like cooked brake fluid.
  7. Even if it did, even if there was a flame (not possible) there's no way the fuel will ignite because the mixtures are too rich to ignite. This is why electrical connectors happily live exposed inside a fuel tank. Not to mention a fuel tank is nearly sealed so the chances of enough air getting in to enable the right condition for fuel ignition is nearly impossible. Btw. You don't need 2 pumps for the power you're aiming for. You don't even need a Walbro 460L.
  8. Walbro 450 he will then start a new thread about wiring melting and or blowing fuses. DW300 v2 uses less current, good for beginners.
  9. Shit forgot it's a R34, I keep thinking he has a R33 boat like most of us. Please ignore what I said previously, just stick to the ARP studs lol.
  10. lol... Anyone Optima did get a bad wrap about 10 years ago when all their batteries were made in Mexico.. LOL yes LOL Then they've changed their plant to elsewhere and their quality returned back to where they were before 10+ years ago..
  11. get a DW300 pump, earth off the power i.e. bypass the FPCM... call it a day. You're overthinking something so simple for your shit box. Yes all skylines are shit boxes, I said it lol
  12. because budget conscious track build and they're fine... ARP 2000 for big power and boost. Since the head is coming off, might as well do value stem seals and also basic performance valve springs... RB25DET is prone to valve float once it gets some heat into it.. sometimes noticeable on the dyno after many pulls usually only noticed on the track.
  13. I would go ARP non 2000 studs if the head is coming off. Good clamp is good for keeping thr head and block together. Never know, one day you might have the urge to push out 350kw+ lol
  14. stainless hose clamp horn relay a few terminals 8ga power wiring an 8ga fuse holder and no, those issues are from shit installs... I run mine till the light goes on before it starts missing/surging on the track
  15. did you know, your flex sensor actually read fuel temperature too? And if you have a Zeitronix kit there's an earth trigger that allows it to switch between ethanol % to fuel temperature? waos
  16. If memory serves me right, they're a little less dustier than the QFM A1RM however will cop more abuse and not fade as quickly... and also much quieter! I haven't used Remsa so can't compare... if this helps, they're less dustier than Project MU HC800 / HC+
  17. I find the Intima SR squealed a little with the 296mm R33 disc - but no where as much as Project MU HC+ or those god awful QFM pads, however on the 324mm Brembo discs/calipers they don't squeal.. It might be the size/dimension that provides the right mix to create the squeal and amplify it. However going to the Type-D it's virtually silent for street use (as they don't bite when cold LOLOLOL) but on the track once they hit the right temperature they squeal a bit.
  18. Fap fap, Good on ya for making the move
  19. Oh mang you changed your alias LOL... I would have preferred to read "arab bought a GTR" lolololoo.
  20. wallah! however man, no idea how Brakes Direct are selling rotors at those prices!?!?!??!! it's like they're making $5~10 .. I just sent Matt a price list and then look at Brakes Direct thinking "yeah I'm cheaper for schizzle" then was shocked... they might have some kind of volume agreement
  21. If you are keen, shoot me a message. I can get DBA at very competitive prices also Intima SR pads Have helped many forum members.
  22. In performance cars I always recommend sealed batteries such as Optima Oddessey etc.
  23. Hope it isn't combustion gases in your coolant system. I have that with my car when I'm on the track with loads of boost for over taking cars lol. Pull over into the pits and you'll notice some black floaty bits in your overflow. Hope it's just air pockets or a dodgy cap. Tridon do a 300ZX cap in the 16psi flavour for our cars which is about $15 from super it's something CB16110 (double check first b4 buying).
  24. Not worth the time and money, put that money towards better cooling mods or a better turbo or flex setup.
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