Intima SS pads are 0 to 400 degrees though, so yeah not really a good pad to use on a Mountain run..
Intima SR pads are 0 to 700 degrees.. so more suited for your street sprints, mountains, track work etc.
Intima Type-D pads are 250 to 850 degrees... a little shit on the road when cold, but they sure pull up once there's heat.
Happy to help you guys out, will throw in free shipping if you order 2x sets of pads and bank deposit instead of GheyPal.
Motor out easier, can be done with engine in but if you're doing the clutch and other shit as well might as well pull the motor out and also do the front diff, baffled sump and better oil pump that's not a N1 pump.
Shit yeah, that setup will destroy any twin turbo GTlagR
Recently put a 3.9 into a S15 with a Z32 box, so much better than the other S13 I tuned with a Z32 4.11 diff. Just lights up tyres on the track.
Can't wait for results, twin scroll is king!
(based on my own experiences only).. when I replaced my viscous hub my car took much longer to overheat with the Worley radiator. Now that I've replaced the radiator with a PWR radiator my water temperatures don't even go past 100 degrees when I flog the shit out of my car on the track lap after lap after lap.
If I were to remove the fan entirely, I predict my car would overheat on the track based on what you've said.
lol... I'm not that good at sales.. I'm in IT
anyhow, you can save a few dollars running your own wiring/flex sensor + gauge (if needed)... means less shop time at Benny = more money for brakes, tyres, clutch, gearbox, samsonas, etc..
check your base timing and if it's sync'd with the ECU when the timing is locked (for syncing)... I've heard stories where Haltech E11s going nuts and the triggers angles magically get corrupted.
If it's whacked, I suggest going back into your tune and seeing if the trigger angles are correct.
if you can maintain your coolant temp always around 80 instead of 90 that means if it does get super hot you have about 20 degrees before it boils instead of 10.
Does that make sense?
I disagree... cooler exhaust temps = more dense.. right out the turbo temps would be say 700~900 degrees, at the axle back I'm sure those temps are no where near it..
btw... you could experiment yourself
Also... you could use the Nistune board to convert the signal from the flex sensor to 0-5v for your stock ECU
Also... I can supply you the Nistune board to convert the signal lol
OR.. you could buy a Zeitronix gauge/sensor kit and use the 0-5v output and connect it to:
Evo 8 4-plug ECU: pin 42
Evo 8 3-plug ECU: pin 64