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Dose Pipe Sutututu

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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. Intima SS pads are 0 to 400 degrees though, so yeah not really a good pad to use on a Mountain run.. Intima SR pads are 0 to 700 degrees.. so more suited for your street sprints, mountains, track work etc. Intima Type-D pads are 250 to 850 degrees... a little shit on the road when cold, but they sure pull up once there's heat. Happy to help you guys out, will throw in free shipping if you order 2x sets of pads and bank deposit instead of GheyPal.
  2. problem solved: https://rollracing.com.au/
  3. wut? nooooooooo lol would be good to see your car back to back with Warlord's car (that's if he can get the power down).
  4. But you've got a 3.0L lol.. it would spool anything even a dinorawr turbo.
  5. Motor out easier, can be done with engine in but if you're doing the clutch and other shit as well might as well pull the motor out and also do the front diff, baffled sump and better oil pump that's not a N1 pump.
  6. I can get plazmaman gear at a decent price.
  7. I said 10 years ago twins are gay, Paul knows it so does Mick.
  8. Shit yeah, that setup will destroy any twin turbo GTlagR Recently put a 3.9 into a S15 with a Z32 box, so much better than the other S13 I tuned with a Z32 4.11 diff. Just lights up tyres on the track. Can't wait for results, twin scroll is king!
  9. Hehehe I'm such a bad influence, you went twin scroll!!!!!! Good on ya, will fry tyres with that setup. Much faps!
  10. Yeah why not? Some custom piping done.
  11. Let's bring this bad boy back, when's the new snail going on?
  12. LOL... the not moving part is your own doing btw.. I would be pretty interested with your b4 and after IA temps !!
  13. yes of course will heat up when it stops.. but I was referring to whilst on the track
  14. (based on my own experiences only).. when I replaced my viscous hub my car took much longer to overheat with the Worley radiator. Now that I've replaced the radiator with a PWR radiator my water temperatures don't even go past 100 degrees when I flog the shit out of my car on the track lap after lap after lap. If I were to remove the fan entirely, I predict my car would overheat on the track based on what you've said.
  15. lol... I'm not that good at sales.. I'm in IT anyhow, you can save a few dollars running your own wiring/flex sensor + gauge (if needed)... means less shop time at Benny = more money for brakes, tyres, clutch, gearbox, samsonas, etc..
  16. Temp fix, increase idle duty and the values of the proportional and integral of the closed loop settings. At least car won't be "like a dog"
  17. best to run an IAT after the FMIC and see if it's cooling effectively
  18. check your base timing and if it's sync'd with the ECU when the timing is locked (for syncing)... I've heard stories where Haltech E11s going nuts and the triggers angles magically get corrupted. If it's whacked, I suggest going back into your tune and seeing if the trigger angles are correct.
  19. if you can maintain your coolant temp always around 80 instead of 90 that means if it does get super hot you have about 20 degrees before it boils instead of 10. Does that make sense?
  20. I disagree... cooler exhaust temps = more dense.. right out the turbo temps would be say 700~900 degrees, at the axle back I'm sure those temps are no where near it..
  21. btw... you could experiment yourself Also... you could use the Nistune board to convert the signal from the flex sensor to 0-5v for your stock ECU Also... I can supply you the Nistune board to convert the signal lol OR.. you could buy a Zeitronix gauge/sensor kit and use the 0-5v output and connect it to: Evo 8 4-plug ECU: pin 42 Evo 8 3-plug ECU: pin 64
  22. dual not duel lol does full flex, mafless, and launch control from E8 onwards.. some say full flex "may" work on E7 ECUs.
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