Dose Pipe Sutututu

Block off the PCV, block off the feed back to the intake. Run both fittings off the cam covers to the catch can. Be prepared to enjoy Eau de Oil Vapour.

He doesn't want me to say "I told you so" for not buying a Haltech 2500.

I hate it, if someone came to me with a 2018+ F80 M3 Competition, straight swap I would take it and my wife won't complain because I didn't need to add in more money. I've surfaced the idea of selling the shit box and adding money for a F80 M3, her words "get fked, you're not selling anything". She reckons I'll end up buying another 90s JDM shit box in the future.

Didn't win Powerball, can't buy a 911 GT3 RS. Time to improve the shit box, so as we all know when you slap anything bigger than a stock pump, the OEM venturi causes a massive restriction, especially trying to control pressure on the rail. When running a surge tank, you wouldn't care too much, however even with a 200L/h lift pump, there was still about 0.5bar of fuel pressure in the surge with the main pumps off. This meant that the venturi was holding back the return line too much, building pressure for no reason, thus causing undesirable current draw, heat, noise etc. So yeah, wasted more money to optimise something that would usually be over looked.

I'm not against twins, however to get them to work properly you need to take a page out of BMW's book. Each turbo has its own exhaust path quite far down before the exhaust mixes at the rear muffler. Each turbo has its own IC chamber before it all meets just before the throttle body. Unfortunately, noone has properly done twins on a RB, realistically it's not cost effective.

Correct, I'm running a GT-R alternator on my shit box GTS-t

120kW at 4000rpm would be really fun to drive.

If you need the mounting/restraint points, get them here, they're based in VIC too. https://rawsparts.com/nissan_skyline_r33/98-r33-gtr-cra-kit.html 1/2 the price of what wreckers or the numpties on Facebook want to them, not to mention it's brand new.

Nice mate, any track days you're looking forward to?

Fyp

90A are GT-R ones, R33 GTS-t or GTS had 80A ones. Just slap a LS alternator on, done.

Time to reduce the lobe separation angle, install an adjustable exhaust cam gear lol Some merit to this, you'll have better cylinder scavenging down low, more low down torque just a terrible idle. Nissan did combat this by only advancing the intake only once you were outside of the idle conditions.

Wouldn't say it sounds good, however it sounds ok lol.

Record one as well from the engine side, so you don't hear the exhaust too clearly. It sounds terrible, exhaust side it might sound ok. You're better off closing up the LSA by enabling VCT from idle and/or retarding the exhaust cam then putting in timing step/hole in the zero demand table.

liquid filled? If so, yeah.. use a proper sensor and log fuel pressure vs. manifold pressure. I doubt you'll see a consistent 3bar delta between the two, this also applies to aftermarket regulators, albeit the issue is less evident.

You're better off enabling VCT from idle, and putting a timing hole into your zero demand ignition table That would give you the lumpy idle you want, if you want to exaggerate it even more, reduce the lobe separation angle. Rotational Idle sounds aids.

log the fuel pressure vs. manifold pressure on a spirited drive, I believe you'll see unfavourable results.

and many of these posts don't mention anything about fuel pressure either I am certain if you put a fuel pressure sensor on most factory reg with bigger pumps/injector setups, you'll see unfavourable fuel pressures

selling the car, buying the car with the right gearbox from the start lol.

Nissan X Trail or G35 Skyline (plastic pad not alloy like the 350Z). You'll need to drill 2x new mounting holes on the pedal bracket itself (same as the 350Z) and then manipulate the pedal rod itself in a vice till you're happy. Here's mine after I sent it, note this is an older photo, I've once attacked the pedal and it sits a little lower.

That's right, I have issues where the AC request is enabled but nothing is sent to input on the Haltech. It's very intermittent in my case, so because I'm too lazy to actually fix the issue, I've just set an AC request on the keypad instead LOL.

It does go on and off, there's a thermo amplifier in the equation. This sensor sits inside the evaporator core and usually has a 3x pin connector. I recall @admS15 had a similar issue and cut/shut a S15 200SX one in. What it does, it cuts the AC request when the evaporator starts to get too cold to stop it from icing up. These stupid thermo amps seem to fail quite a bit, I suspect mine has as the AC request will go on/off very quickly. For now, being the lazy prick that I am, have setup a canbus key to enable the AC compressor (bypassing the HVAC controls) with a pulse setting to run the compressor for 7 secs, followed by a 3 sec pause, then back on for 7 secs.

I dare say the use of those ring terminals were the root cause of your issues. Looks like there wasn't sufficient crimping force applied on those crimps. I generally rip off the plastic shit before crimping those (when I need to use them) then use a double wall heat shrink over the top. Here's a good article about poorly crimped connectors causing fires, although the wiring was sufficient to handle the load https://www.edn.com/bad-crimp-bad-news/

FFG hat, buy better crimpers and please no solder!

Went to a bigger housing, went twin scroll and made the turbo wake up earlier, how good is that 😎