Dose Pipe Sutututu

pressure side so the valve doesn't essentially have pressure against it.. pressure in the plenum and pressure on the coldside pipe would have the same +ve pressure on boost

those temps appear some what "correct", if the car is doing other stuff then there is some other correction being applied.. because the factory haltech base map only shaves timing and pulls out fuel above 70 degrees Celsius... you need a wideband!

what is the reading at the moment with the car running?

You need to specify the input using ecu manager then you need to scale the sensor to suit and enable the correction tables for that input.

maybe you should fix up your signature

they don't correct timing, show me how they correct timing.. enlighten me

come on... where's the "throw the twins in the bin" ? LOL

SAFC is shit.. you bend your AFM car runs leaner (good) but you end up running more timing at the same boost (bad). I've played with one a decade or so ago, but to keep things safe I retarded the cas by 3 degrees.

where's Piggaz?

I know some people hate the NT01 with a passion, but it hooks up great for me. Doesn't spin tyres once they're warm.. and cheaper than other tyres mentioned. I know there are better, but for an amateur just like yourself they're awesome to drive to and from the track on.

Fire and theft is a croc of shit... they cover max $10k, then you minus excess, admin, other bs costs.. you end up with a few grand. Also means premiums will be about $600... I heard vintage insurance is much better, in terms of cover and cost. My car literally does 2~3000 kms per year, the most it ever travels is when it goes to Wakefield Park and back home. 1x tank of E85 usually lasts me about 1 month, most of it wasted on starting it up revving it a bit in the backyard and turning it off (yes not good for oil but gets replaced every 2nd track day)

soooooo my shit box R33 GTS-t qualifies?

or don't run split dumps.. they're shit.

hahahaha, dw.. I have mates that once owned Efos... I've seen/felt their pain when motor revs, clutch works car makes crunching noises and moves no where LOLOL

get a 2 way

then bang, then goes.. fuarking Johnny that prick - should have gotten the PPG tube like he said

shit got real when you daily some AD08s lol

If you're in Sydney and/or near Moorebank go see Grub @ Impossible Fabrications... he and the team will make anything you can dream of...

is the Halaltech set correctly? put a multimeter on and rev the car, it should register a voltage change at a specific rpm point (as per your tuner's settng)

you should adjust the dampers as needed.. there's no need for a workshop to adjust them

Nah.. Samsonas is where it's at

Yeah I usually drive to the track on 5/12 front and 6/12 rears with about 80L of extra fuel ontop of the 60L in the tank + 2x semi wheels (I drive down with front street tyres and rear semis) + a full tool kit lol. It was on the spongey side, but not crashy and floaty.. still very composed.

UPDATE time betches! Car doesn't dose well anymore (new turbo) Car has literally no traction now (running normal street tyres, Nitto NT05) Anyhow enough of the silliness, last night was the first time ever I have taken the R33 shit box on Parramatta Road with the MCA X-R.. at first I thought I would pop a few discs out of my spine however it was quite the opposite. As the car is now being used for more daily use (gave our daily to the missus' sister) it's on 98RON and also has a set of Nitto NT05 on 18x9 wheels... no silly stretch or poke homo shit too. Front dampers were set to 3/12 and rear dampers set to 4/12. Very surprised that the ride quality was decent, considering i'm on 10/7kg springs which are considered a little on the stiff side. I would dare say it was more comfortable than the basic Bilstein Shocks & spring combo I had on the car before. So there you have it, you can have comfort and handling all in one package.

Adjust the dampers? not rocket science