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Dose Pipe Sutututu

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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. Probably could get a generic 76mm pro series core at a good price Holla if you're ever interested.. also can get good prices on DBA rotors, Hel lines and especially Intima Pads!
  2. You pretty much rolled home and didn't load up the box. You'll be fine.
  3. It's fine, just ram in more boost
  4. Mark or Yauvz?
  5. this is where I face palm myself water/meth will richen up mixtures, as you're injecting a combustible.. I have no idea why I said it would lean out mixtures.. probably all the ethanol use has fogged my mind haha
  6. or just buy a whole new turbo like a GTX3071
  7. You still need more fuel.. so if you're at your so called limits then you'll need to upgrade your fuel system. As you inject water/meth your mixtures will lean out, thus requiring you to ram in more fuel. Basic rule, tune for under 11:1 AFR for Gasoline, and inject water/meth to you bring your mixtures back to high 11s. Then start advancing timing... in your case you don't need to advance timing as you're already running so much for Gasoline I'm suspecting you're nosing over MBT for that rpm vs. load.
  8. Get GTX3576 with a divided rear housing, and a proper twin scroll manifold.. put in some headstuds and screw about 2 bar into it.. should see close to 400kw+ on E85 Your injectors are too small too and you need a new fuel pump.
  9. TBH.. 40th Anniversary isn't anything special.. I had one before, and sold it.. didn't go for much more than a 1996/1997 S2. If your mind is set on fixing your car, unplug the airbag module under the centre console and start replacing all the airbags, clockspring, followed by the 2x front seat belts. Once that's done, install a new module (make sure the battery is disconnected). Then plug back your battery, then standing in a safe position where the airbags can't deploy and hit your face/head/neck etc. flick the car onto 'ON'. Check the SRS light, it should come on.. do it's checks then turn off. If it remains on/flashing, then look up the error codes and replace the outstanding items. "Usually" the clockspring & crash sensors can be reused.
  10. youse need dis: http://www.ppgearbox.com.au/page.asp?productid=47
  11. nothing beats a real mechanical diff that's predictable, i.e. an aftermarket mechanical.. because even the factory mechanical diff is aids.
  12. Since the box is out, install a PPG hollow tube. The OEM likes to twist then shatter then will lunch the front diff, and box.
  13. Feed the ECU digital signal for the flex and 0 to 5V for the fuel temperature.
  14. most of the time (from my experience) you don't need to replace the crash sensor.. however on newer cars yes.
  15. use the 0-5v feed to ECU.. log that!
  16. TBH.. if you're going down that path, you're better off wrecking the car/selling the car and getting another R33 S2. Nissan will tell you what is best practices... I would personally replace it all myself, however that's me personally.
  17. needs more plazmaman parts
  18. + get a RB25DET for your R32.. and don't get thet rubbish HKS2530
  19. All flex sensors have built in thermometers If you're using the Zeixtronic kit, there's an earth trigger you can hook up to say a switch and when you flick it will show you the fuel temp...
  20. good, you've taken your car to another tuner after the first one nearly grenaded your motor with timing figures fit for a NA motor
  21. Delete it, will give you grief once you bump your boost
  22. You can cut it off, car will drive fine but don't drive it on the streets.
  23. BTW... put in headstuds at a minimum.. I am assuming the cams are coming out one day? I recently tuned Killaflop's S15 from Nissan Silvia / trak-life crew member and it's got about 1.8bar of boost going into the stock motor hehe... however Mr Fuel pump wasn't happy and we didn't delete the OEM pressure relief valve, so with 1150cc injectors we were at 100% DC. Round 2 soon, hopefully will see 2 bar into the motor with just studs, a tomei gasket and poncams
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