Boost doesn't bend rods, torque does or excessive cylinder pressure due to many reasons such as knock, ingesting water (Honda boys are good at this), injector(s) failing and dumping loads of fuel, etc.
Too much timing bent a rod? Haha
I always relax on the timing peak torque to keep these stock RBs together. Been doing 370kW on mine for some time, prior to that a good 330kW.
Head gasket is going though, must have screwed it prior through ARP studs. Do about 4 to 5 hard laps and you'll lose coolant.
I don't know why everyone raves about QFMs.. I once thought they were good too.. till I nearly DIED!
Anyhow, if anyone needs Intima Pads SS/SR/Type-D hit me up - will take care of SAU boys and their friends!
ddayemmmmmmmmmmmm man I want a 6 spd in my R33.. mine's notchy and crunchy as... usually on the track at 7k rpm it won't go into 3rd or 4th without a massive slam.
Most of my mates mis shift and grind it, I just force it in like anal without lube.
I prefer a square set, that way you can rotate.
I run 255 all round and they seem to hook up well with ~340kW and the occasional 370kW when I over take people... #datscrambleboostlyfeyo (yep HG is fuuuarked now).
easy fix for Jez really.. all he needs to do is reduce the start base duty for x boost setting and perhaps set the start boost control offset at 50kpa or so
pressure side so the valve doesn't essentially have pressure against it.. pressure in the plenum and pressure on the coldside pipe would have the same +ve pressure on boost
those temps appear some what "correct", if the car is doing other stuff then there is some other correction being applied.. because the factory haltech base map only shaves timing and pulls out fuel above 70 degrees Celsius...
you need a wideband!