Dose Pipe Sutututu

their support is amazing! Andy is awesome, there may be a few idiosyncrasies with their platform/software but the support makes up for in 5x times over.

I shaved off the tabs and used the OEM brackets and drilled into it.. works a treat however the rear USB plug sits against the firewall padding.. but using a 90 degree USB plug work "ok". I too snapped off my USB plug, but I managed to solder it back and then applied 1000000000x coats of super glue to it LOL

copy out the entire ignition map onto a spreadsheet and show us then do a trace (like you have done) but in 3rd gear to red line

Whoever spoke to you is telling you fibs.. it's an old car the airbags are not coded like new cars. Just get everything from a S2 GTS-t or S2/S3 GT-R they're the same. Older S1 or S14 S1 or 180SX have the airbag module built into the steering wheel.. newer one such as anything with dual airbags all run off the module undernealth the centre console. It's held in by a security torx bolt.. (star shape with a rod in the middle, bunnings/repco/supercheap have them... can't recall on price).

make sure that completely split Cyl 1~3 and 4~6.. what CRG usually do is have 1x merge collector (open scroll) and just put a twin scroll flange on top.. and at times they have 2x separate pipes going out merged into 1x pipe into 1x gate (which is correct).

run a 100cell or no cat, also do you have a trace of your timing map vs. boost vs. rpm? appears you're running very lazy timing and/or you've reach the potential of your stock manifold... FWIW.. all I did was move my external gate from the turbo's rear housing on to the manifold and instantly picked up nearly 40kW (same turbo ish.. same compressor wheel, just different bearing setup and different rear housing) and everything stopped glowing. OR like many would say E85.

just ground off the earth on your fuel pump for now... no need to get fancy until you start playing around with bigger pumps

you will need both airbags (given) steering wheel clock spring undeployed airbag module (under centre console) undeployed front seatbelts some instances, you may need new front crash sensors

But he likes racing pedigree items.. like mentioned over on Nissan Silvia LOL. Personally would have used a dry cell and mounted it on the hump, on the opposite side of the fuel tank access. More boot space for E85 tanks going to the track

Nice, welcome. My advice, don't go doing a Honda on your beautiful car. I.e. massive duration cams, slam it on its tits and stretched/poke wheel tyre combos. Sensible cams, throw the twins in the bin, get a sensible twin scroll turbo setup, e85 and eat up Hondas!

1.3bar stock BOV is fine. I have a mate running one with nearly 2bar of boost. All he did was block off the internal bleed hole. Hope you're not running an AFM with that whoosh valve of yours. FWIW I don't run one, one less thing to worry about when looking for leaks.

Lol What you've provided shows absolutely nothing usefull. Also with the trace you've done, you're not even coming on boost yet.

Get Plazmaman rails, PM me if you need one. Sir_RB loves his one

Small boost, BOV meh.. Running 2 bar, then yeah why not.

have you pulled out timing yet? it will seriously wake up your turbo

if you're using the serial out on the wideband to the adaptronic then don't worry, the ecu will know the sensor is offline.. if you're using 0-5 to out.. and analogue in.. when the wideband fails ecu will dump in fuel and think it's leaning out

UEGO is a little older and uses the LSU4.2 sensor.. hwoever has serial out which is perfect for direct integration into the Adaptronic ECU instead of using the 0-5V analog output which is inaccurate.

Bragging rights. 370kW here, has about 27psi into it and used for track. Usually run about 23 to 25psi on the track. Motor has 350000km+ still going strong. Just pushes a bit of coolant after 10 hard laps at 27psi. Seems ok about 23 to 25psi, all it has are ARP non 2000 studs. 250kW is a walk in the park.

Ahh no

Nistune is easier to setup than a Haltech. Do you even have a wideband on the car? there's a chance it's too lean and stalling/leaning out... also you need to play with the idle control PIDs to get it to idle + work on the fuel cut/recovery table? did you adjust the correct injection dead times etc.? There's much to adjust and tweak before it runs properly. Nistune however, just drag the K and TIM till the car stoiches the rest is easy.

Put stock cams in, add more boost instant response/power It's not an Evo/4G63T, no need for 272 brap cams.

Wut... HKS EVC 5/6 to AVC-R? You serious? HKS EVC can hold boost ruler flat, here's a good example of a car I just tuned.

try turning your gain down so the EBC is more lazy and increase your SET to higher anyhow, these twin ports are great for controlling boost.. just remember to set your EBC to external waste gate mode to use the twin port http://www.turbosmartdirect.com/Product-Categories/Universal-Fit-Internal-Wastegate-Actuators/IWG75-Twin-Port-Universal-150mm-14-PSI.html

use a turbosmart dual port actuator.. I tuned a SR20 with a GTX2867 using that actuator and the boost was pretty flat.. not ruler flat as an EWG but flat enough Just fuel system couldn't keep up, ripping out the junk DW300 and replacing it with a Walbro 450L

In the AVC-R, when you're in the Setting Menu, hit next next.. it allows you to fine tune duty cycle by RPM (which is defined in the NE Menu). See where boost is bleeding off and add DC to those RPM points defined by the NE Points. Who's tuning your car?