Dose Pipe Sutututu

Alrighty update time, I've installed the new revised SS2 with the Ceramic Ball Bearing CHRA... and... holy fuark me it's amazing. I was too lazy to touch up the tune but it's rich enough to be thrashed *cough* I mean tested lol. I'm now able to get nearly 1.4 bar in 2nd gear! where with the old circa 2012 SS2 it would barely get 1.2 bar in 2nd. In 3rd shit just gets silly, I'm getting nearly all 1.6bar in around 4200rpm according to the inaccurate OEM tachometer. I'll plug in the laptop for some logs soon for those data junkies. A few things with the new CHRA, it's so much easier to install as you're able to bolt up the turbo without needing to remove the front cover like the old SS2. However the turbo sits lower so I need to cut my dump and weld it back up also the oil return need a slight bend to line up other than that it's nearly plug and play.

Even R32 or R34 fits and are the same

Adaptronic better

Best deleted reviews too 10/10

There's a trick to tuning EVOs you either progressively build boost after peak torque, or purely run very low timing at peak torque. You can happily make 350awkW on an EVO and not throw rods if you know what you're doing.. also by progressively building boost after peak torque or simply running less timing at peak torque and as you get to peak torque you'll end up with a flatter torque curve.

How come you don't want to keep ABS?

obviously a bad tune

I would throw a Ford Focus RS into the mix... a lot of car for the money.

Skylines can be compared to Scientology... we have all been brainwashed by the dose and braps, then happily throw money at things hoping something magical will happen.

they break if someone has over tightened them.. however worthwhile replacing because they're cheap enough

+ cheaper insurance + missus will thank you + less worn out bushing lol

change the lot: belt, idler, tensioner, cam seals, crank seal, and water pump.. save money buy buying a major service kit for about $400 then pay a mechanic to install it to avoid the mark up.

and better economy + 4 doors and better boot space... and you don't get defected

it's a sad reality, but R32/33/34 Skylines GTS-t GT-Rs are pretty much all siet boks compared to newer cars.. heck a Ford Focus RS would munch hard... imagine a basic modded Ford Focus RS.. would clean up a a GT-R with 50k worth of mods.

Stock as a rock EVO does 1m10 around Wakefield on rubber out of the factory. Now imagine with a basic dual map tune, 280awkW stock turbo on E85 with semis.

Pretty much two options from my personal experience. 1. Set the AFM to Z32 and click on half value (if running 2) and adjust k value till your car hits stoich with o2 feedback disabled 2. Leave as is and adjust the k constant till you hit stoich on idle with the O2 feedback flag disabled The beauty of the Nismo or Z32 etc. Is that the curve is nearly stock so there's no fancy calibration need like the HPX afm which I've yet to use.

Ahhh I remember he has trying to sell his, but guess he has sold it.

If you think outside the box you can piggyback a full standalone ontop and let that ecu do all the work but the stock ecu for auto control. Then literally cut all the ignition and injector outputs from the stock ecu and wire it up to the standalone. Always ways around it, just need to think outside the box. Also you can set the stand alone to input a gear change signal and retard timing for you so you don't grenade your box.

What about Mugen Vtec controllers for the RB20DE?

Going to the dark side, realised his twins can be replaced with a TS single lol.. Doesn't one of the SAU execs have one?

Don't do it, it's not a VL commodore.

They are, just have to know what you're doing

You have a R34 GT-R and want to fit Yellow Jacket coil packs. I suggest do a search on this very forum.

LOL, it's 2016 not 1984 tuning Pulsar ET turbos.

Street car or track car?