Dose Pipe Sutututu

ditch the half shim to see if it improves.. however I've never had these issues you're having and I've been through countless pads

Whilst at exhaust shop, request for dose pipe too.

http://forum.jdmstyletuning.com/archive/index.php/t-59578.html

Do some googling. There's a dude with a EVO that installed one and had great amount of issues.

it is though... but it's solid tech that works better than any modern tech that runs in pairs.

yummy OR Ford Focus RS.. much wows.

Get an EVO instead.. will do better times around Wakefield park, E8/9/10 will do 1m10s around Wakefield 100% stock (although with a pro driver). A stock R32/33/34 GT-R would have a hard time getting those times.

I never machine my rotors.. the most I do it skim off the lip

my advice, get good pads.. don't use junk like QFM A1RM for the track

stock I never buy fancy slotted stuff, unless it's the same price as non slotted.

In theory, then in practise it's not when you've got two turbos pushing against each other and twin restrictions on the motor. Like I said, for those flow values to be anywhere near true in practise you'll need twin cooler, twin plenum to fully separate everything.

Maybe it's $1350 Vietnamese Dong, which is worth $0.07 AUD

Nitto NT01 255/40/17 square set

GT-t brakes are decent (enough).. being 310mm in diameter. I used to run stock R33 GTS-t brakes, 296mm in diatmeter and they were decent for a 330kW boat at Wakefield Park. Coupled with Project MU HC800+ they could do about 4 laps before showing signs of fade. When I mean fade, brakes would still work for 10 laps but require heaps of pedal effort. I've since upgraded to BREMBO calipers with Intima Type-D (as I sell them haha)... car is destined for the track 30th May for a shake down.

every oil change

I also run those garbage $3.50 NGK copper plugs.

Run stock boost see what happens then. If it runs fine, then have a look at your plugs/coil packs. I also high recommend doing a single turbo conversion.

Like this:

Do this, guaranteed good smoke: Press clutch Slot into 3rd gear (hold it in gear so it won't pop out) Mash the accelerator, make sure it is bouncing off the limiter Depress clutch as fast as you can, the faster the better 100% crowd pleaser, I did this at the SAU NSW Texi

Why do you need a hand controller for? HPX is an AFM I'm sure your Z32 will be fine, unless you're going to be making 400 500kW

Stock manifold will be a choking point, you need the motor to breathe. If you want stock manifold, get a fabricator to run twin gates off it.. grouping cylinders 1~3 together and 4~6 together.. the factory manifold surprisingly is "nearly" twin scroll, bar that little notch. OR use a Havoc Fabrication modded manifold which merges each of the pulses into 1x gate. I would expect at least a 45mm or 50mm gate off it. GTX3582 would be perfect, especially with that 3.0L pushing it along.. heck even a GTX3576 would be perfect.

better off just replacing the rear sub frame bush, total pain in the arse but well worth it.. I find the pineapples are ok (if your stock bushing isn't cactus)..if they're cactus.. then forget it, you'll end up splitting them. Get the MCA X-C aka Purple, they're better than the MCA Blues That powerband/torque band looks mental makes changing gears a thing of the past haha... CRD, too many stories as usual.

How you going along with that MAP kit for Nistune? I remember you were toying with the idea bout 4~5 years ago But with the MAP kit, would it take into account IAT as well? Could be primitive, as IAT increases load increase which naturally means you'll read heavier loads resulting in lower timing and more fuel (which will over richen as you want to compensate high IAT with less fuel as there's less oxygen but not necessarily a bad thing keeps shit cool)

Can't disclose price, best if you ask HAVOC directly on their facebook page. Just flick him a PM, usually his wife replies https://www.facebook.com/havocfabrication

Havoc Fabrications in Melb, send it down, he sends it back happy days..