Dose Pipe Sutututu

You are correct, the earlier the torque, the earlier things snap

What kind of power delivery are you after? If it's nice and linear, the 0.86 would be better. If you're after bake tyres and head snaps on boost the 0.64 would be fun. I'm boring and old, so linear power is preferred. Lately I've been watching videos on Z06 Corvettes and super charged Mustangs....

No detail on compressor or turbine sizes, which doesn't help with housing size selection with that kit. However, from SR20DET mucking about and money torching perspective, a GTX2860R Gen 2 w/ 0.64 (46mm inducer) will do ~260kW on E85 about 1.5bar of boost. All in before 3000pm, which cause a gearbox to shatter. Now imagine the same turbo, on a modern motor with an extra 0.5L of displacement, and heaps of cam timing adjustability (not an on/off affair like the Nissan shit boxes). If this was my car (which I would never own or consider buying, ever!), I would go for a nice twin scroll setup, and a G30-660. Gates plumbed back, no silly shit. Lean on the cam timing, big displacement to create a flat-ish torque curve.

Change the subframe bushes, transforms the car.

Nek minnit the $60K I said earlier doesn't seem too far off the mark.

I will need to dig up Nistune maps and see how they look.

And that's great, perfect for your USDM and ADM fuel. The off boost area of the map is defined very well, when compared to other manufacturers.

There's no figuring out with a Haltech, you literally load up the base map, plug in the vac/boost reference from your manifold to the ECU (or an external MAP) sensor, wire up an IAT and it will run pretty well out of the box. The ignition tables are quite well defined and safe enough for someone to give it a hit (although I don't recommend it if you've got anything besides the stock gear on the motor).

Unplug it and see if the car makes a difference

Much love, no homo.

Merry Clitmas you dirty cnuts. 24 hours ish in the sous vide at 50°C, then finished it off in the pizza oven at 500°C. Internal temp peaked about 56°C, albeit a bit higher than I wanted however still butter soft. Don't ever let the mother in law out cook you at family events. Yes, that plate was bought in Ischia, Italy.

Is your VCT working? That curve looks like your VCT isn't engaging

Lolol accurate af! Great read mate, and whoever welded that seatbelt bracket deserves to be slap across the face with a used dildo.

Correct, sports cars are just a passion project, especially ones that are within reach/affordable for the slightly above average person, e.g. self combusting GR Corolla or GR Yaris. Nissan and Honda have a long journey ahead before they start with any passion projects. Honda, as of late isn't doing itself any favours with heaps of recalls and cars being delivered with tons of defects. My mate recently just got into a legal dispute with one of the dealers regarding his brand new CR-V. Ended to with a full refund, went down the road, orders a brand new Rav 4 hybrid and couldn't have been happier (when compared to the Lemon CR-V).

Very true, if buying new, I would not get an PP either. Minimum is an Elite 2500, which is also considered outdated. Get something that supports DBW, delete that cable throttle. Best thing I've ever done to the Skyline, next best is refreshing the A/C with a new condenser. It's cold, but not as cold as modern car, but colder than most 90s JDM shit boxes imported into Australia.

Duncan would say yes, nearly everyone else here would say no.

It is plug and play, load up the base map and off you go. Throw the stock MAF(s) into the bin and run an intake manifold vacuum/boost reference to the ECU. Preferably to run it to an external MAP sensor. Get a Haltech CANbus wideband.

Call it $60k, to factor in a basic rebuild too. Oil pump will go bang, and/or head will shit a shim and many sads. Just build the motor at the same time as upgrading the turbo. Nitto oil pump, big ass sump, head to sump vent/drain, fix up all the flaws.

Don't forgot to factor in the boring stuff too, like fuel system, electronics pack, clutch, etc.

I would sell those side feeds before you hydra-lock a motor. I won't say too much about Yellow Jackets because I'll hurt people's feelings, however ask those that tune RBs day in/out what they think of them.

Are those 1000cc side feeds? If so, that's part of your problem. I have 1480cc and they idle at stoich on 98RON, and all the way to E85. Also your coil packs.....

Nice modern Hypergear high flow would be perfect.

Just get a Haltech CAN wideband, no need to wire any delay circuits, or relay, etc. Since I've moved to a Haltech CANbus wideband, I have not replaced a single sensor for over 5 years (if not longer, can't remember when moved to Haltach).

What oil weight are you using?

Now they're bang your wallet