with auto as you hit the brakes it needs to hold the revs a little bit before it idles or it will stall easily... also a great feature of adaptornic is you can use an input to detect when the car is in gear and up the revs.
better off getting an adaptronic and splicing into the loom, however direct all the injection/ignition points to the adaptronic. Also you can have idle control, etc. through the adaptronic as well as setup a dashpot/calm down effort as you go into gear.
^ xspurts aren't the best option.. the tips are milled to increase flow... they even blatantly say that.
Unmodified Bosch injectors are the best option.
Doubt you'll get 350mm EVO brakes inside of a 17" wheel.
I'm running 350Z Brembos and there is about 8mm of wheel clearance vs. caliper with 17" R33 GTR wheels.
Install stock bovs, install bov returns back to the intake.. oh wow everything is normal again.
I suggest you refund those bovs and spend that money on blow and hookers.
Alrighty update time, I've installed the new revised SS2 with the Ceramic Ball Bearing CHRA... and... holy fuark me it's amazing.
I was too lazy to touch up the tune but it's rich enough to be thrashed *cough* I mean tested lol.
I'm now able to get nearly 1.4 bar in 2nd gear! where with the old circa 2012 SS2 it would barely get 1.2 bar in 2nd. In 3rd shit just gets silly, I'm getting nearly all 1.6bar in around 4200rpm according to the inaccurate OEM tachometer.
I'll plug in the laptop for some logs soon for those data junkies.
A few things with the new CHRA, it's so much easier to install as you're able to bolt up the turbo without needing to remove the front cover like the old SS2. However the turbo sits lower so I need to cut my dump and weld it back up also the oil return need a slight bend to line up other than that it's nearly plug and play.
There's a trick to tuning EVOs you either progressively build boost after peak torque, or purely run very low timing at peak torque.
You can happily make 350awkW on an EVO and not throw rods if you know what you're doing.. also by progressively building boost after peak torque or simply running less timing at peak torque and as you get to peak torque you'll end up with a flatter torque curve.
Skylines can be compared to Scientology... we have all been brainwashed by the dose and braps, then happily throw money at things hoping something magical will happen.
change the lot: belt, idler, tensioner, cam seals, crank seal, and water pump..
save money buy buying a major service kit for about $400 then pay a mechanic to install it to avoid the mark up.