Dose Pipe Sutututu

all that downforce, car could enter WTAC Open Class.. might need a bucket seat and a new motor and new everything lol

another reason why I don't like trimming the fan blades with those typical off the shelf FMIC kits for RB25DET motors.. thus I went for the Plazmaman kit

I have a Blitz DBSC, which uses this block containing 2x independent solenoids:

They were at Shindo 400 (still can't believe I wasted 3 hours there, lucky it was free lol).

That's the point, you want to work the turbo to give you the flat boost or targeted amount thus post intercooler but pre throttle is more desirable for a pressure source

nope, just a MAC valve (or similar)

43mm thickness, and that gives you approximately 1.5cm clearance between the fan shroud and fan blades.. however there have been incidents where at high RPM the fan flexes just enough to smash into the shroud.. I believe this happened to SimonR32 on this forum. Best way around is to trim off the flat area of the fan shroud

yep, after destroying my current gearbox

It's known shockproof destroys boxes, get a perfectly healthy box, add on shock proof and then watch the box deteriorate. It's only good for boxes woth worn down synchros, if it's a healthy box steer clear of it.

Just make sure you flush out the radiator properly and before you do all of that make sure you sand down the fittings on the radiator or your stock overheat fan thermoswitch won't sit flush... I found out the hard way LOL... Screwed it in, noticed the slight gap, installed it into car.. filled it up... bam... leak... removed radiator, removed swtich, sanded it down with a block, re-installed and bam no more.. been going hard for 3 years.

I've seen my car hit 115 degrees water but I was doing a hotlap so I hit the mute button LOL... Car still lives, radiator still not warped and more boost going into it when I get my new turbo (after I get off my arse and send my old one back in) haha

All the eBay radiators are the same, ASI, Worley, GPI, the welds all look the same and the top tank has that ridge. They work pretty well for street use, drags, and moderate track use with moderate power. I only starting having some slight overheating issues once I started making some decent power and mind you that was on a 37 degree day on the track. Other than that, I've done track days in Autumn, Winter, Spring with the same power and the car will power down 8~10 laps without the water going more than 105 degrees.

I wouldn't be touching the cas if it has been tuned set at say 18.. now you've just lost some power as your entire map has 3 degrees less timing. still safer than those guys advancing their cas to 15 when it was much lower. Also that fluctuation at 3k rpm could be from a lean spot on the tune that was never tuned on the dyno as the tuner didn't hit that load point or didn't tune cells around certain load points.

just some info about my car, street I run Penrite 10W40 racing but on the track 15W50 racing

what ECU? what you can do is use the temperature fuel compensation and add in more fuel when the motor is cold.

waaaay to thin, asking for trouble

add more boost to make up for the lack of compression lol

BUMP for China Racing! Has seen about a half a dozen track days and still going strong.. removing due to upgrade as I need just a touch more cooling

bump bitches good for R32, R33 GTS, R34 GT, S13, S14, S15 and Stagea varieties !!! $300 for SAU guys and girls!

Plug up a fuel pressure gauge and watch it jump up and down on hard throttle or when the boost ramps up like a mad man. Thing is 90% of Tomei FPR on the market are fake and even the real ones aren't that good either... A friend I regularly go to the track with swaped out his so called genuine Tomei FPR (bought from Nengun) for a Turbosmart FPR1200 and now he is able to run less duty cycle and smooth out the injection table not to mention he now requires less throttle pump.

I am so glad I bit the bullet and bought these without any review from others using them on R33 boats... day and night difference over BC BR coilovers with softer springs. I could have gotten BC BR coilcovers for nearly half the price but I am so glad I didn't! Next track outing should be fun, BREMBO brakes going on and hopefully the weather is cooler!

and I suggest taking that FPR selling it and buying something better like a Turbosmart FPR1200 or so.. even those SX FPR seem ok (according to my mate that works on EVOs) Those Tomei FPRs "may" work, but they don't control pressure smoothly when you connect a fuel pressure gauge on them.. Whenever you jab the throttle on and off quickly you can see pressure spikes and drops all over the place making your transition throttle terrible and on the odd time you'll get massive rich spots causing either misfires OR massive backfires.

I used a pair of decent side cutters and they snapped like a fresh broccoli stalk.. So I've got the video all ready, but for some reason Sony Vegas has died so I have no quick way of converting a 1.5GB clip into someone more manageable

idle them a little richer, will idle silky smooth OR just go to E85 as you need more fuel on idle so they atomise properly lol

Just an update, I still haven't removed my old turbo.. I am so lazy these days.. New Year's resolution, remove turbo and send back to Hypergear for an upgrade