Dose Pipe Sutututu

show us what your engine bay looks like... I would say call up Plazmaman get a Pro Series kit and be done with it.

I would prefer a modern turbo and loads of boost so it sits nicely in the efficiency zone.. at the same time invest in a good intercooler.

foe dat turn in doee!!! Because Wakefield Park has many tight-ish turns, toe out should help with the initial turn in.. also with heaps of front castor dialed in the car should have very good turn in as the camber will ramp up quicker (well theory wise). Let's see how she handles, I've backed off the ARBs to 2nd softest out of 4 at the front and softest out of 2 at the rear

Alright, I've done some updates to the alignment, installed braided brake lines (OEM rear LHS was weeping), in preparation for a shake down this Sunday at Wakefield. Alignment Front Toe: 1.5mm toe out each side, total 3mm toe out Front Camber: -2.3 degrees (no adjustment, due to lowering the car) Front Castor: 9 degrees Rear Toe: 2mm toe in each side, total 4mm toe in Rear Camber: -1.5 degrees Should be great for tyre wear haha

buy one of these things, then connect silicone to it then to the alloy piece.. done!

it's just silicon and a short piece of alloy? hahah

if anyone wants my #scotty_nm35 3" intake with 3" to 4" silicon reducer & an alloy extension piece (if you are deleting your AFM), it's up for sale soon... Mine's a little different as it doesn't have the BOV return and the breather line it mounted slightly different to delete the factory hardlines, intake mates up to the factory airbox (if you need it).

I think it's draining man, because prior to me installing the flex sensor I didn't have this issue. Didn't know where else to elegantly install the flex sensor. Thought about the back near the fuel tank but too much stuffing about.

thread revival! who has ditched the fuel damper/OEM check valve and replaced it with an aftermarket check valve? I've ordered the ones below which require at least 0.8bar of fuel pressure before flow initiates which is perfect to stop fuel draining back into the tank... hopefully this works when connected down stream (same direction as fuel). I've removed the OEM one to fit my flex sensor in that spot, however I'm finding my rail is draining so it's a little harder to start the car without priming it for at least 1~2seconds .. also broscience says I shouldn't have fuel lines without fuel in them for long periods of time (car rarely gets driven).

wot you say?

and use RB20 as a boat anchor

It might hit load points that were unaccounted for during the tune and might do unfavourable things. Ideally a tuner with at least half a brain would interpolate values in those load rows and surrounding areas.

Because it's not an AC fan.. it's an overheat fan triggered by the thermostatic switch mounted in your radiator. The reason behind this is that in Japan the AC is used more so as dehumidifier in their cold season and there's no need to cool down the condenser at all and by kicking off an A/C fan it would over cool the radiator and thus the motor. In Australia it's hot as fuuuark, thus majority of cars delivered or manufactured here will engage a condenser fan when the A/C kicks in to cool shit down. A trick is to get a diode and connect the A/C trigger to the Overheat fan trigger (relays I am talking here), so when you turn on your A/C the fan will kick in but when your fan goes on without the A/C the A/C compressor won't kick in (thank the diode). Hope that explains it

^ or just drop in a RB25DET NEO for the fraction of the price and make more torque down low, more torque everywhere and more power everywhere too.

Hypergear have one.. but not in production, just a prototype for them to ticker with...

ghey! you're doing something wrong, just add more boost nek time lol

MotiveDVD guys have their stock motor R32 GTR making over 450kW at all fours with only new headstuds and a head gasket. These RB motors love it.

awesome car yard in Sydney that can supply any car with the kms you want lol.. they simply wind the clock back to what you want and tell you they've found this mint car from Japan LOL I personally didn't buy my rust bucket from them, but the previous owner did!

fuark, mine's a mint Edward Lees R33. Shows 149xxx but body says it has about 350xxx. Rust was hidden with sound deadening, motor had leaks on rear main seal, front main seal, cam covers etc. Did all the maintenance work and now sees 23 to 25psi err day stock motor and gets raped on the track, albeit it's a shit box GTS-t so yours being a GTR you have no worries.

stacking them is completely fine.. I am going to do the same thing (one day) when I am bothered.. below pic is great, shows it fits without hitting naything

new headgasket and new head studs would be great... or at a minimum some new headstuds would be great.. at $250 it is good value keeping the sandwich happy.

Alrighty.. 13 days to go till I see Wakefield Park again! Just in the process of moving my oil cooler to the driver's wheel arch to promote cooler air flow to the radiator. I find the sandwiching of FMIC, Oil Cooler, Radiator isn't too effective for track duties and found water temp was rising a little too much for my liking. Anyhow, install guide for the MCA coilovers.. who doesn't like a good install guide? LINK HERE: http://www.trak-life.com/diy-r33-gts-t-mca-x-race-coilover-install/ Tools Required: Breaker Bar Torque Wrench (optional) 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm Sockets Trolley Jack & Jack Stands Rubber Mallet (optional) Duration: 3 hours Difficulty: Medium Profanity Level: Medium Step 1: Jack up your car and securely lower it on a set of solid jack stands with the wheel removed as per the photo. Step 2: Locate the front shock absorber’s mounting points, at the top 2x 14mm nuts and at the bottom 1x 17mm nut . Step 3: Time to get physical, firstly unbolt the bracket that holds the ABS sensor line (only on ABS equipped vehicles), then undo the bottom nut followed by the two at the top. Gracefully then wiggle the shock absorber out, this is where a rubber mallet “might” come in handy when trying to pull the shock out from the bottom mounting point. Note: Might be wise to have a second set of hands holding the shock absorber as you remove the top 2x 14mm nuts as it will drop down. If you’re good with multitasking, holding the shock with one arm whilst you’re removing the 2x 14mm nuts works too (that’s what I had to do because Flop wasn’t around) Break: Time to get that business on! but first, some mirin’ time and side by side comparisons! Step 5: Pretty much reverse of what you’ve done to take them out, starting with the top 2x 14mm nuts, followed by the bottom 17mm nut. Note that because of the new shock absorber aka coilover suspension, there is a lack of droop which may make it difficult to align the suspension mounting points to the upright. A simple solution to this is to use a trolley jack and load up the lower control arm till it aligns with the bottom eyelet of the coilover. Once you’ve tightened up everything, just admire the detail of the suspension hardware. Step 6: Time for the rears, same as the front jack up the car securely then lower on jack stands Step 7: Pull out your rear seats, by first removing the bottom bench which will expose 2x 10mm bolts that hold the backrest in place. Remove those bolts, and lift the backrest upwards as it will come off the hangers. Once the seat is fully out of the car, remove the parcel tray by pulling it out on an angle (it will make more sense as you attempt it). Step 8: Locate the suspension strut tops of either end of the rear. You will see there’s a parcel tray support bracket, simply remove the front 10mm nut holding it and slide it across so you have direct access to the strut top. Now remove the 2x 12mm nuts holding the top of the suspension. Step 9: Locate the bottom mount of the shock absorber, again this wil be a 17mm nut. Simple remove this nut (I’m lazy thus you see the cordless impact wrench). Step 10: Similar to the front shock absorber, you may need to give it a whack with the rubber mallet to separate it from the rear spindle. Break: I suggest a beer at this point, as removing the rear seats was probably not fun nor exciting. Whilst smashing down a few cans, admire what you’ve just purchased and compare it to what you had previously (it’s a great feeling). Step 11: Time to bolt shit back, pretty straight forward – reverse the process of when you removed them. Step 12 (Optional): If you’re like me and love tinkering and adjusting shit all day, MCA have these optional strut top adjustment extenders for the rears (of course not free but worth investing). These flexible rods allow you to adjust the dampers without the need to pull out the parcel tray OR cut massive holes for your hands. Pretty straight forward, measure and trim the rod as required then they simply just hook up to the adjuster tops and tighten up with a small 3mm grub screw. I chose to butcher up my parcel tray and feed them through, alternatively they would still work wedged up between your seat and parcel tray. Step 13: Repeat for the opposite side of the car, yippee! All done, time to rock and roll. If the height requires adjustment, please follow MCA’s instructions. Also don’t forget to hit up a wheel alignment shop and re-dial in the toe settings for the front and back. If you have the luxury of camber arms, get those checked too and dialed in accordingly as changing height will affect other aspects of the geometry.

there's a factory heat exchanger which keeps the water and oil temp inline.. benefits of this.. cools down the oil when it gets too hot and also brings oil temperature to operating temps Draw backs, if the oil temp exceeds the water temp, it will bring the water temp up. A way around this is to increase your cooling capacity by installing a decent radiator which should theoretically keep the water temps in check and also keep the oil temps a little lower.. but real world says you need to also install an oil cooler to bring the overall temperature of both oil and water down.

go buy a wideband, a wideband is cheaper than a melted piston

I don't believe that statement is correct... the job of the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) is to control rail pressure. Regardless of what the fuel pump OR fuel pressure being pushed into the rail, the FPR will control the rail pressure to maintain 3 bar of fuel pressure going into the motor (taking into account the plenum vac/pressure). The only instance where the fuel pressure is all over the shop (using the factory regular) is when there's so much flow it cannot return fuel quick enough.. usually caused by running surge tank setups with twin pumps.