Dose Pipe Sutututu

should try what I recommended earlier, however I know you're the type not to listen so here is what you're looking for. Fuel Pressure Offset Slope (psid) (µsec) (cc/min) 8 Volts 10 Volts 12 Volts 14 Volts 16 Volts 40.0 2195 1495 1115 885 710 845 43.5 2280 1540 1145 910 730 885 (noticed the table lost its formatting, you'll work it out)

also slowest lol, 1m14s

I think you guys need to measure an intercooler's ability to cool down the charged air as well as pressure drop. Measuring the out put power based on an intercooler is not a good way of determining it's efficiency.

oh shit, good pick up lol these are 205/55/16 guys!

just make up a curve you'll be surprised what I've seen come out of workshops lol

Hey All, Pulled these tyres of the missus' car to replace with RE003 Potenza tyres. Decent tread left on all 4, 2x have about 7mm worth of tread and the other 2x about 4mm tread. Tyres have no punctures, no chucks missing, no blisters and are evenly worn with no visible camber wear. They have been professionally removed by JAX Liverpool (not some backyard job). Brand: Goodyear Range: Assurance Size: 205/50/16 Build Year: 2012 Price: $120 Location: Canley Vale, NSW, 2166

Easiest way is to keep the same VE table as with your current injectors, then scale your new injectors to the correct size then adjust the dead times till you hit stoich (or whatever afr you idled with your old injectors).

those end tanks look kind of restrictive

big dump down pipe ano no cat is best... easily gain 10kW with no cat

X Force lol.. and the rear is Fujitsubo, will piss the lot off after the new turbo setup

I reckon drop the cat and re run the car, there's probably some restriction in the system. When I modded my cat back and introduced a resonator and a mid muffler (both straight through) I noticed a slight drop in response. Even on the dyno it a few weeks back I noticed a slight drop in response coming onto boost, even though I loaded it up at 3k rpm before starting the run. Going to redo the turbo back when I redo the turbo setup.

there you go, data is there can't deny it I say invest in a decent FMIC, I'm going to throw my HDi China Domestic Market IC out for a Plazmaman one sometime next year once I get the new turbo setup on oootttsss Maybe say goodbye to the screamer too..

yeah those gauges are good too! but if your haltech does everything, then there's no real need for that fancy gauge

I've found the AEM UEGO units are reliable, have installed them into several cars and still working. Just one down side is they can only output one signal, not a massive issue if you've got a modern ECU that accepts 0 to 5V then you can simply parallel that signal for other things.

Bang an IAT and measure the temp going into the motor and also measure the boost drop. I found with China Ling Long cores they don't tend to cool so well, however on e85 that isn't too much of a concern provided your IATs are under 60 degrees or so. I didn't find much of a power difference when my IAT shot past 50 degrees. On pump, high IAT would be knock city

#doyouevenbodyroll ? haha.. this is with 24mm solid ARBs front and back set to the freaking hardest setting... overall understand and oversteer was very balanced/neutral... however, by doing so I've snapped about 3 sets of ARB links to the spindle... they snap like butter when I hit a ripple strip or come off the track.

wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy too soft, I know everyone will say get thicker ARBs, blah blah.. yes I have, still way too much weight shift. Here's a video of 3x different drivers with the same car.. the 1st driver is a seasoned track broad minded person.

I've been in a car with BC BRs but not have driven nor been in a car with BC BRs on the track. My previous setup consisted of Bilstein B5 shocks with lowered springs as per SydneyKid's recommendations. They clearly didn't suit my needs, thus they were removed and replaced with MCA X-Rs. I will be going to Wakefield 20th December for some testing, will provide video footage of Bilsteins vs. MCAs

slow motion, check out that excursion - it's magical

Fire it backwards to load it up (know as superpositioning) which will give you about a 3dB gain - approximately double the "loudness" and with careful port tuning you could pull another 2~3dB from the cabin gain. I did 146dB with a single 12" Solobaric being fed 1.5kW back in the days however I had a 140L or so box. I reckon a single 12" DD Subwoofer with about 1kW going to it will push you past 145dB easily in a ported box and if you feed it more it will make even more power.. downside is these subs don't go low and need huge boxes. http://www.ddaudio.com/products/mobile-audio/woofers/dd9500 Question is, what is your goal and what is your budget? You can go loud on a budget but you'll need at least a decent subwoofer/driver... get a pair of Jaycar monoblocks and strap them together

you're going to regret putting in the 650cc injectors

you could punch over 145dB in a Stagea with a pair of nice ported 12" and still have enough room to have a root in the back.

a wagon and not a coupe.. then a bunch of subs, slot ported individually and tuned using a SPL meter to see what resonate frequency the sub will peak at... each cabin is different. I used to be into this shit 1.5 decades ago.

I personally prefer running something like a dash 2 or similar all sensors into ECU for engine protection and all displays to 1x dash...

I've been told the heater control logic of the Innovate kit isn't too thought out, so the sensors cook themselves.