Dose Pipe Sutututu

avoid, cops hate it

I still like Innovate because it provides narrow band simulation but at the same time provides 0-5V output, just hate how it chew through sensors.

I mount my gauges just ontop of the steering column, have an AFR gauge, Boost gauge, water/oil temp there and no problems from the cops at all.

The flow a little to reduce air pockets in the oil cooler lines/oil cooler itself. I run the same unit, which can be seen here on my car: http://www.trak-life.com/diy-r33-skyline-oil-cooler-with-thermostat/

of course it is! It's not adaptronic's fault, it's just Innovate kits like to eat up sensors.

Keep it, you'll need it to regulate temps also install an oil thermostat.. don't get those China pride kits, they're garbage and will leak everywhere

AEM is good, no need to free air calibrate and the kit doesn't cook sensors like the Innovate kits. I've had two gauges fail on me already, first one couldn't display text properly next one died in 3 months and kept showing E9 then I've cooked 1x sensor luckily this was all within a year so was covered by warranty. With the AEM units, I installed an AEM UEGO into my mates s15 and it's still going strong 3 years on and readings were inline (a little richer as pre cat) to what was showing on the dyno

3k is BW EFR money, ooots

Just spray the nismo logo on your stock one, tits for all lol I'll take your GTR on with my shit box GTSt at the track

too much effort, just install a proper temperature gauge and get accurate readings not some spring loaded gauge reading lol

just leave the stock one on then.. if you're not making massive HP and your IATs are fairly low there's no need to upgrade an intercooler. It's like upgrading a fuel pump on your stock Honda Civic GLi.. won't make more power.

did you take photos of the amazing internals of the core? compare it to even the Jap stuff, it's premium

always good to have headroom, and also the 1150cc are cheap, stainless and newer than the likes of your sards, nismos, RC, etc.

For E85, 8s are boarder line too cold.. 7s are fine.. depends on how much boost you're making. Stock manifold is a restriction, they glow bright red on heavy load... even on E85. I'm in the process of getting a stock manifold modified venting the exhaust pressure/gases from there.

just get a Plazmaman Pro Series, the cores are much better.

SOLD!

plugs too hot and injectors are gay would go 7 heat range and at least 1150cc injectors.

because of user error, they need to be air calibrated every so often unless it's an AEM kit.Also dyno readings are post cat, so they read a little leaner but not far off. I usually tune with both AFR gauges, pre cat and also exhaust tip on the dyno. I prefer to use pre cat as it's more accurate, using a tail pipe sniffer has given me bullshit readings when cars run blast pipes as sometimes one pipe ends up sunking in air from a venturi effect.

try ground the fuel pump

I see kits: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TREMEC-T56-RB20-RB25-RB26-RB30-ADAPTOR-KIT-NISSAN-HOLDEN-VL-TURBO-COMMODORE-BT1-/151182984691 but I've yet to see anyone on this forum with one fitted

has it been fitted? I'm curious to see how it fits

probably not a like for like comparison, but drive a R34 or R33 GTS-t with moderate mods/power, then unplug the VCT solenoid plug and then drive it

not sure if you noticed the above dyno graph I posted of a GTX3582 on a 3.0L 2JZ but it's all in at 3500rpm with 25psi and look at the power delivery, also if you were to run a little less boost it would come on even earlier.

E61, wasn't planning to put it on the dyno but I had some hire time left so pumped the 98 tank with E85

oo yez.. found the dyno sheet i was talkng about: E85, stock cams, stock many thing, 25psi on a 2JZ.. so a RB30/25 would be "close".