Dose Pipe Sutututu

I would go with something similar to a GTX3582 with a 1.06 housing.. that 3.0L will spool anything with a VCT head. Look at 2JZ-GTE with VVT-i heads.. it will give you a good idea, those motors will happily spool up a GTX3582 1.06 rear around 4k rpm and produce very linear torque and linear power. A T67 would be too small.

My latest dyno run: After adding in an addition 6 degrees of timing up top and about 4 in between 3900rpm and 5400 rpm the motor refused to make any more power. Ended up making 327kW but I was leaning too much on the timing so scaled it back and she made 325kW E61 If anyone is interested in the logs, I'll e-mail them to you.. can't seem to attach CSV files. And here's a short video of 3x cars I tuned that morning (including touching up my own, ignore the AFR readout on the S15 as it runs blast pipes)

STATUS from Chequered Tuning repairs them too, I recall about 5/6 years ago he was posting up information on the common faults, etc. with them.

fuel leaking = fake Tomei FPR get a Turbosmart FPR1200 or so, even Andy at Adaptronic did some tests and proved that these regulators control pressure very well. Just my personal experience, I went from a Tomei Type-LJ regulator to a FPR1200 and my AFRs are now nice and smooth also my overall VE table has dropped allowing me to smooth out the values - I gathered the old regulator couldn't control fuel pressure properly.

I just put another set of OEM ones in.. however the car now has 10kg front springs, so hopefully the violent oscillations will decrease with the heavier spring rates and new shocks.

Guess I'll post my latest dyno run, after adding in an addition 6 degrees of timing up top and about 4 in between 3900rpm and 5400 rpm the motor refused to make any more power. Ended up making 327kW but I was leaning too much on the timing so scaled it back and she made 325kW on E61 1996 R33 GTS-t, probably has 300000+ kms on her (Edward Lee's Special Edition) Unopened motor with: Hypergear SS2 (older version, circa 2013) Turbosmart Hypergate 45mm External Wastegate - off the rear housing of turbo 875cc Siemens DEKA IV E85 top feed injectors (half height) Turbosmart FPR1200 Fuel Regulator Walbro 450L E85 Fuel Pump Plazmaman Swept Back Intercooler Piping HDi 600x300x76mm Intercooler Splitfire Coilpacks ARP (non-2000) Head studs, torqued to 108nm with Assembly lube Mocal Oil Cooler with GREX Sandwich Plate / Thermostat China 43mm Ling-long Yumcha Radiator Calsonic Power steering cooler RS-R 3.25" dump, flange chopped with 3" V-Band DIY 45mm Screamer Pipe 5" Body Venom Catalytic 3" Fujisubo Catback Exhaust, with X-Force Resonator and X-Force Mid muffler Zeixtronics ECA Kit Adaptronic 440 Select Blitz DSBC Boost Controller Stock Cams, Stock HG, Stock Intake Manifold, Stock Exhaust Manifold Self Tuned

I actually have the car a little lower than what SK recommends, purely for aesthetic reasons - however the control arms aren't pointing skywards and actually are parallel to the ground. In terms of rear camber, even at -1.5degree I am getting outter edge wear and tear on the track. The rear tyres are more thrashed on the outer edges rather than the inner as most may think. I am considering even going to -2 degrees I don't have any issues with traction though, putting over 500nm & 320+ kW to the rears on the 255 NT01 tyres

Looks like I'm unable to make anymore power, I added in 4 degrees of timing and it only made 327kW so I backed it off and ended with 325kW Tried more boost, but it did do much except give me a little more torque and a glowing gate lol. There's a chance this motor has had it as I lifted the head at a track day a couple of months back. (oh yeah, I had semi slicks on which generally reads lower on the dyno) If anyone is interested, I've got data logs from runs on the dyno.

my input and thoughts, feel free to ignore Get those turbos, sell them.. then convert to a single GTX3576 or even GTX3582 on a proper twin scroll manifold and a proper divided housing with either twin gates or merge both pulses all the way to a single 50mm gate or larger. Eventually all response and power hungry GT-R owners convert to a modern single turbo.

will do! I only have the dyno for 1.5 hours and I need to get 2x S15s on during that time hahaa

Quick run down of the car: Front Hardrace Front Castor Rods, Whiteline Steering rack bushes 24mm Whiteline ARB set at 2nd softest Rear Hardrace Rear Camber arms set at -1.5 degrees Hardrace harden subframe bushes 24mm Whiteline ARB set at stiffest eBay Special HICAS Eliminator kit Alignment Front Toe: 1.5mm toe out each side, total 3mm Front Camber: -2 degrees ish (will be more now because lowered car after alignment and no adjustment) Front Castor: 8.5 degrees Rear Toe: 1mm toe in each side, total 2mm Rear Camber: -1.5 degrees Wheels/Tyres/Brakes: R33 GT-R 17x9 +30 Nitto NT01 255/40/17 all round Project Mu HC800+ all round on stock calipers, stock rotors

nope, just installed new headstuds - but motor is unopened might put it on the dyno this weekend if I still have time from the hire.. will wind in 25psi

anyone?

research: stock RB25DET NEO ARP headstuds E85 1150cc or 2200 Injectors Walbro E85 450L pump by TI Automotive Continental Flex sensor Adaptronic/Haltech/Nistune (R35 / HPX AFM if going Nistune)/ViPec or whatever makes you hard Anything billet turbo, such as Hypergear SS2

^wow that's amazing, get your car modded and it still has factory warranty!

ooootss stock NEO, now we're talking!

put in a Nistune, get 1150cc injectors, a Z32 and put as much boost into it as possible

I have a stock motor that goes to the track every 2 months or so making well over 300kW and it gets the shit thrashed out of it. Best move for you, install a stock RB25DET NEO motor, a GTX3576, twin gates, twin screamers and spend the change on cocaine and strippers.

then put this kit: http://www.walkinshawperformance.com.au/wp/au/news/news.asp?ID=386 547 kW & 880nm

wasn't there a thread about this like a few months ago that you started? Why would you choose a RB26 when a RB25DET NEO cost less and overall better?

why not move over to a R35/HPX AFM? would work out cheaper too. Also for calibration: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/430633-r35hpx-maf-info-needed-for-power-fc-data-to-tune-with/

if it really bothers you, just upgrade the rears too OR... run a tiny bit wider rear tyres as theoretically the rears would lock easier

+1 for this option and because it's Monday and I have nothing interesting to do in the office here's the link: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MAMBA-Turbo-Oil-Water-Line-Install-Kit-Nissan-RB25DET-GT-R-w-Stock-Turbo-/181830524530?hash=item2a55f19e72:g:1pMAAOSwHnFVyhsN Note the chinese to english to chinese to english... and somehow it's for a a RB25DET GT-R BUT.. it's the right one.

Just buy the braided kinugawa kits, cheap, braided and works. To prove it works, my car often gets punished at the track too.

a track car that is road registered because I don't have a tow car and space for a trailer where I live now