Dose Pipe Sutututu

S13/14/15: (reference whiteline.com.au)

Hey All, So my car has now snapped a 3rd anti roll bar link bracket, this time I didn't do it my mate did when he spun my car off the track. Background: Front ARB is a 24mm solid adjustable Whiteline product, currently set to 3/4 (stiffness) using new links.. ARB & links are fine, however it's the bracket that keeps on sheering off. So what are the alternatives for R33s? I know S13/14/15 can be bolted directly to the control arm like what is provided by Whiteline (which removes the need to use the weak mounting point). However look at the R33, there's no real way of accomplishing the same thing. (reference sau.com.au) I did do some searching on the net, however there weren't any real solutions to this issue I have.. probably the only option I have is going back OEM ARB and just get slightly stiffer front springs to achieve what I need. le sigh

also put stock wheels with non sticky tyres on the dyno.. you'll read higher.

new manifold and go external, you should be able to add more timing

lol Ben E85, no need for cams. I make nearly 100kW more than you just on E85, stock cams and the same turbo, actually an older version of it.

Coils get hot, and they aren't as effective.. just gap them down man.

gap down to 0.5mm

water meth, more timing

I don't know how much I'm making but last time I put it on a mainline 2WD dyno it made 340kW but only with 22psi but that was with stock stocks a little more timing. I'll shaved off the timing and added more boost for the track, against what everyone would think lol. However I've got ARP studs and I've over torqued them to 108nm (non 2000 studs)

it's laggy but makes the power, better off with a Hypergear turbo

narrow band sensor doesn't give a voltage to dictate the o2 reading just goes up and down on closed loop and ecu adjusts a little to hit stoichiometric

what? lol I run 875cc Siemens Deka IV and it is only hitting like 89% duty cycle at 24psi I prefer to tune with loads of boost but very lazy timing rather than loads of timing but not so much boost. Because you're on E85, EGTS are shit low

boost doesn't make motors go bang, shit tuning and poor fuel does. I run 24psi all day

put in new headstuds, and pump as much boost as you possibly can with that turbo on e85. Motor loves it, especially on E85.

look in the dyno thread was on a stagea, made the power but more lags than a real GTX or Hypergear equivalent

I'm in Canley Vale, solid 2 hr drive away. don't need the bov return or breather I've got a 3" intake going to my 4" turbo, doesn't boogie well

stock position and is in 4" might be cheaper than going to a shop to fab up a 4" pipe

C63 AMG /thread lol no, eat good tyres, get good suspension and get a good diff

sell me your intake pipe lol..

nawwss man.. I like my stock 300000km+ Edward Lee's special edition with 149000 km the dash motor Well I want to push the limits of this motor and see what happens, if it pops.. oh wells RB30 it is lol

so yeah, I'm after some more power... however what will be more responsive? SS2 (current one, externally gated by scotty_nm35 last year) OR ATR45SAT ? I do plan to get HAVOC fab to make me one of those stock manifolds with each pulse merged into a single gate.

just add more boost, you'll be fine.

any MAP needs an IAT (at a minimum), air density changes with temperature/altitude etc.. better if you have both IAT and also barometer. this is why I still prefer AFM ECUs, just minus the idiosyncrasies such as BOV/reversion, etc... but there are ways to get around it like increasing the fuel cut/recovery point.

anyhow, just go to Project Mu HC+ or HC800 as it's called now.. you'll never look back

If only I had a Z33 gearbox in my car, that would solve all issues LOL