Dose Pipe Sutututu

get a new FPR too I made the mistake of using a SARD FPR Type-LJ whatever theyr'e called

I noticed one thing, you have a SARD FPR... those things aren't that good. I replaced my SARD FPR with a Turbosmart 1200 FPR and AFRs were more steady on WOT and also my fuel map could be smoothed out

woof! X-Series MCA with 10kg fronts and 7kg rears Since the BC thread gets loving, time to bump up the MCA thread

be a little dodgy, bump up the base fuel pressure

but I don't like the 3" to 4" to 3" business Unless you wanna make me another but in 4"? aahahaha

Going rich as you reach peak torque and at peak torque will prevent knock, especially on 98RON. I assume that was done on purpose. On E85, that doesn't matter so much... I personally tune my car and my mates car using the same technique.. as it approaches max torque and is at max torque AFRs are in the 11.5 region and as torque dies down it leans up to nearly 12

get a better ECU, run flex I run 98RON most days and days I hit up the track I bring down 4x jerry cans of E85.. smash that, then drive to the servo and cruise back home on 98RON.

yep, and it only happens when there are heaps rapid oscillations such as running off the track lol. I was hoping an off the shelf solution, similar to what I posted about how s chassis cars go about it.

S13/14/15: (reference whiteline.com.au)

Hey All, So my car has now snapped a 3rd anti roll bar link bracket, this time I didn't do it my mate did when he spun my car off the track. Background: Front ARB is a 24mm solid adjustable Whiteline product, currently set to 3/4 (stiffness) using new links.. ARB & links are fine, however it's the bracket that keeps on sheering off. So what are the alternatives for R33s? I know S13/14/15 can be bolted directly to the control arm like what is provided by Whiteline (which removes the need to use the weak mounting point). However look at the R33, there's no real way of accomplishing the same thing. (reference sau.com.au) I did do some searching on the net, however there weren't any real solutions to this issue I have.. probably the only option I have is going back OEM ARB and just get slightly stiffer front springs to achieve what I need. le sigh

also put stock wheels with non sticky tyres on the dyno.. you'll read higher.

new manifold and go external, you should be able to add more timing

lol Ben E85, no need for cams. I make nearly 100kW more than you just on E85, stock cams and the same turbo, actually an older version of it.

Coils get hot, and they aren't as effective.. just gap them down man.

gap down to 0.5mm

water meth, more timing

I don't know how much I'm making but last time I put it on a mainline 2WD dyno it made 340kW but only with 22psi but that was with stock stocks a little more timing. I'll shaved off the timing and added more boost for the track, against what everyone would think lol. However I've got ARP studs and I've over torqued them to 108nm (non 2000 studs)

it's laggy but makes the power, better off with a Hypergear turbo

narrow band sensor doesn't give a voltage to dictate the o2 reading just goes up and down on closed loop and ecu adjusts a little to hit stoichiometric

what? lol I run 875cc Siemens Deka IV and it is only hitting like 89% duty cycle at 24psi I prefer to tune with loads of boost but very lazy timing rather than loads of timing but not so much boost. Because you're on E85, EGTS are shit low

boost doesn't make motors go bang, shit tuning and poor fuel does. I run 24psi all day

put in new headstuds, and pump as much boost as you possibly can with that turbo on e85. Motor loves it, especially on E85.

look in the dyno thread was on a stagea, made the power but more lags than a real GTX or Hypergear equivalent

I'm in Canley Vale, solid 2 hr drive away. don't need the bov return or breather I've got a 3" intake going to my 4" turbo, doesn't boogie well

stock position and is in 4" might be cheaper than going to a shop to fab up a 4" pipe