Dose Pipe Sutututu

740cc man, 555cc you'll run out of injector very quickly. I'm running 875cc stainless steel top feeds and at 343kW I'm already sitting at 87% duty. Go top feed man, if you use half height injectors they will fit underneath the stock plenum easily without any silly spacers ot deleting hoses like other homo kits.

Jam a multimeter in your car and see if your voltage drops as there's load on your motor or if you can just log it from your ecu. I had a shit house misfire problem too, turns out was my stock alternator playing up. On idle, it would show up 13.8V but as soon as you increase the RPM it would drop to around 12.2V. Replaced it with a brand new Circuit Sports one and misfire gone!

The Nismo diff is amazing, especially the ability to adjust how aggressive it is However I don't mind the 2-way KAAZ I'm running now, just run extra friction modifiers and it is quite streetable

my point of view get another opinion on the tune. I personally wouldn't have a timing map like that, but that's my personal choice.

what's the timing like? does it ramp up after max torque is reached or is it flat all the way through the RPM range?

no point revving a motor off it's tits when the turbo stops making power, so more info would be good

sell all your gear, sell that Plazmaman knock off plenum too.. if you want a good deal with Plazmaman, I happen to be very good friends with the sales manager

dem flutters (yes that's my car nearly 4 years ago haha)

dose is breast, dose scares the VTAK

Just buy a Nismo GT LSD, has adjustable torque settings... for daily use, set it on the lowest setting, for skids, baking, track work increase the torque setting.. It's a piece of piss, just unbolt the RHS drive shaft and stick a socket on the RHS stub and adjust. OR.. just buy a KAAZ diff and run heaps of Limslip addictive.. mine doesn't even hop when I do a normal speed u-turn.

buy a CTEK charger, they're designed for this. All 4WD, Boating and Caravan enthusiasts use them. Fantastic unit.

and the NEO has VCT, which makes a world of a difference trying to spool any turbo. The earlier you can get torque, the more exhaust flow you'll have meaning your turbo will start to boogie quicker.

install a high CFM fan on the side mount, and introduce good ducting. I would still monitor IAT regardless

^ that is laggy, however is your rpm gauge reading correctly? I know mine has about a 200rpm difference to what is being shown by the ECU up the top end. Never know, your cluster could be off its tits

longer runners will induce some lag but not as much as 500 rpm. another way around it is to come on boost a little leaner with less timing. This will increase EGTs and get the turbo to boogie quicker I'm tempted to FSU and go a GTX, twin scroll with twin gates if I ever get bored.

E85 was readily available here that's why, water meth boys did 300kW+ though

you need to monitor what your afr reads on and off throttle and also on transient throttle. Ben and I have told you plenty times get a wideband

Good price, needs to be destickered and unriced... way too dim sim looking but does have decent gear on it.

those jumps are normal, you need a wideband... possible your throttle enrichment table is off its chops.

I also am running well over 300kW on the stock plenum and also stock exhaust manifold No need for fancy shit, save that money for rack and tits

I'm in the same boat, might start next week.. got my ARP studs the other day for $239 Just so lazy now because it's cold..

torque is more linear lol...

what Intake Air Temps are you registering? I wonder if it's more so the intake temp that's promoting more power rather than flow, etc.

The reason why I said that is because your EBC will need less duty cycle to achieve the boost requirements so it's working within a smaller range, where as now it's working to control boost in a greater range.... alternatively, just get a bigger gate. I personally like to load up the gate with 75% of the targeted max boost.

attached is a pretty sedate map (which is heaps nicer than the factory Adaptronic map)... of course don't use this map and thrash you car expecting it to be perfect.... USE AT YOUR OWN RISK... It's for stock injectors and other stock stuff and a Hypergear SS2.. of course you can use it for other turbos but best to drive the car off boost till you see your favourite tuner that knows how to use an adaptronic ECU & software.. make sure you learn the TPS at 0% and 100% as each car is set differently.. then check your base timing, make sure it's synced at 15. Stock Injectors on 98: http://www.adaptronic.com.au/forum/index.php?topic=5753.0