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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu
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NZ R33 Long Term Build
Dose Pipe Sutututu replied to R3N3's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
or you can do nothing and enabling this the car will actually drive better than before! Enable it, disable transient throttle and go for a drive. Come back and report how big your boner was. -
NZ R33 Long Term Build
Dose Pipe Sutututu replied to R3N3's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
@DaymoR32 literally just enable it and take it around for a drive with varying levels of throttle and gear changes. It will sort itself out and update the table itself. Ideally, you should spend a little bit of time tuning this table. Disable your O2 correction and just hold at a specific RPM and adjust it till your gets as rich as possible I still left the transient table on, however this was before any documentation was even out. One benefit (maybe not) is the gradual ramp in of timing with the transient table still enabled. I might disable it next time I take the car out and see if there's any difference in terms of perceived feel. Overall, this fuel film modelling has turned a decent ECU into a great ECU! -
We are on this forum and we have donated tens of thousands to the aftermarket automotive industry. We are the very definition of dumb, autistic if I may.
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Oh yeah nah, needs to be high comp, have VCT, ITBs with e-throttle/DBW, big cams, big RPMs, flex fuel, etc. and nitrous for when I need to overtake. 10 000 rpm or go home kind of affair, inspo here: https://www.instagram.com/p/CfXJUs4uYrh/
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I should add to my straight swap list, a well built 240Z. Must be already RB swapped lol. I would make it NA though.
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That is definitely not a shit box, if I had space, time and money I would take it! I would totally froth over a 240Z, RB25DE NEO with ITBs, biggest fk off cams on the planet, max compression all motor 10k RPM ear s3x.
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I would prefer a longer 1st and 2nd anyway, the factory ratios aren't very good (to me due to my powerband) to use at Wakefield Park or SMSP. Would be nice to take the fish hook in 2nd without being right at the end of the rev range lol.
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Running semi slicks in the rain bad idea?
Dose Pipe Sutututu replied to silviaz's topic in General Automotive Discussion
I've taken my cars/diffs to Smithfield Gearbox & Diff and my mates to there too. They know their Nissan shitboxes inside out Smithfield Diff & Gearbox (02) 9604 8887 https://g.co/kgs/vtFyF8 -
Not sure what type of helical PAR engineering uses, however they offer on straight cut or helical for the same price https://www.par-engineering.com/product/fs5r30ass-14set-nissan-fs5r30a-1st4th-synchromesh-engagement-gearset/ Then Speedtek, I think it's just helical, once again all these gearset guys are super low on any information https://speedtekautoracing.com/collections/gearsets/products/800hp-close-ratio-set
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Running semi slicks in the rain bad idea?
Dose Pipe Sutututu replied to silviaz's topic in General Automotive Discussion
Get a proper diff too. -
Yeah @34GeeTeeTee grenaded his R34 box and went to a PPG gearset too. The power/torque I'm making, it's a miracle the box hasn't blown up yet
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The straight cut box is purely from a strength perspective, as there's no price difference between helical vs. straight cut. Synchros will need to be upgraded to the latest version found in the S3 GT-R / R34 GT-t box, which makes shifting much easier at higher RPM Box already has Redline Shockproof in it lol...... Rebuilding it, won't fix the issue of the box going bang with the power/torque.
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The box is about to go bang any second now, I can't even shift into gear past 6k RPM, just grinds and won't go in, hence if you've watched any of my attempts at pretending I can drive at SMSP you'll notice the very slow shifts into gears and you'll notice I wait for the revs to drop a bit before grabbing the next gear. People with less power have blown their box apart on the street, so I'm playing Russian Roulette with it on the track. Also I think the gearbox shop would prefer a core that doesn't have a minced up gearset inside e.g.
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The ratios actually would work better for me at SMSP, T2 & T8. In 3rd I'm just off the boost threshold, in 2nd I'm nearly out of RPM. With a taller 2nd, could take those two turns in 2nd. Hmm.. now that you've mentioned it, you've grenaded your OS Giken box with less power back then. CD009 requires too much stuffing about, will need to change the diff ratio too, need to massage tunnel, custom tailshaft, shifter relocation, etc. The effort involved Ideally if time, money, space, hoist permits it would be perfect for me. Seems like PAR or PPG straight cut with synchro gearsets will suit my requirements. Don't want a dog box, as I prefer the safety of synchros in place so I don't money shift the car (and others that drive it). Fk I hate this car.
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Next car will stay stock, no more mods! Meanwhile I'm looking at a new gear set before I hit up SMSP again. So far looks like PAR might be the way to go, Speedtek seems too hit or miss and can't find much feedback on OS Giken (quite appealing as the AUD to JPY is great, $1 buys 95 Yen). Sigh, stupid money pit.
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would be keen too!