Dose Pipe Sutututu

Hallos, I have a 2 year old Bosch (genuine) 85AMP alternator for sale. Comes with a spare near new genuine Bosch regulator too. If you're wondering why there's a near new voltage regulator? well I thought the previous one was faulty however the it turns out my sense wire on my harness was severed so it would come on and off charge. What you will get: Bosch 85AMP Alternator Bosch Voltage Regulator (spare) Bosch to Hitachi harness for sense & dash light wiring - this also means it will fit R31 and VL commodores too when the harness is not used. This shit bolts straight up and provides 5 more amps than the factory RB25 alternator and 15 more amps than the RB20 alternator.. will work on a GT-R too however you'll have 5 amps less than the factory alternator. Price: $80 Location: Canley Vale

Connect up a timing gun and pull 2~3 degrees out of the base timing so at idle you're reading 12~13 degrees of timing. That should be more than enough to keep your motor happy on 95RON equivalent with a slightly bigger turbo.

After cat is always a little leaner (pretty normal).. I prefer to do all my tuning with the wideband attached precat OR a hollowed cat. AFRs are good, IAT is getting towards the warm side but still ok.. on the dyno after 3~5 consecutive runs it would get quite warm ~ hot. Timing is pretty low, I'm surprised you're getting knock... unless there's an exhaust restriction and/or a faulty CAS. Have you checked your base timing? i.e. locked the timing say at 15 and used a gun to double check the timing?

Install an intake air temp sensor (if you don't already have one), Andy has them for pretty cheap and the adaptronic is already prescaled for the GM sensors. Could be high intake temps that are causing the car not to take timing. Another thought is a dud CAS. Run your car on the street and log a 3rd gear pull and post it here.. would help to see what's going on provided there's a wideband and an IAT connected.

install the haltech, I'll put together a base map for you with o2 feedback enabled - but you need a wideband connected to it.

Just get a C63 AMG (hopefully when our import laws are relaxed)... that's what I will be doing.

is the Haltech already in and also do you have a wideband wired back into it? If so, you can easily enable O2 feedback and setup the lambda or desired AFR for the load vs. RPM then setup the PID for the O2 feedback.. You'll pass with flying colours.

dw man, 1.3bar is perfect also throw that split dump into the bin.. it's more of a headache than anything else.. the wastegate flapper probably isn't able to fully open and causing all the issues, but if it's creeping and staying steady at 1.3bar then that's good...

The guys at 999 Automotive don't know shit, not to mention they sell exhaust parts that don't even fit or line up. What a croc of shit, I've run 24psi on 98RON through my stock as bat shit motor on pretty low timing (7~8 degrees) but was pointless because the manifold was glowing red as EGTs were too high.

Looks like tuners will be making loads of money on flex tunes soon

I have hardrace too, I installed a set of GKtech ones on my mate's S15 and the thread had heaps of tolerance, horrible imo.

ooooo dem brakes too bad we will never gate cruise together I came too late, well the missus likes me late so that's ok too hahaha

LOL.. but it's off the shelf stuff and cost $45 what he needs is something not off the shelf

buy plugs and make it, piece of piss.

I've never heard of anyone using it for a mechanical diff

It does store the settings with power/no power, etc. I've had the same boost controller. The control unit only has 2x wires for power, GND and IGN - there's no constant power. You could easily figure out how to set it yourself, the lower the GAIN the "lazier" it comes onto boost, the higher the GAIN the "harder" it comes onto boost but will have the tendency to spike. SET just determines how much boost you want to run, please note SET the scaling does not equate to any boost figure.

definitely would upgrade based on the fact it's making 300kW by 3500rpm !

R34 GT-t S1 has a VLSD = gay R34 GT-t S2 has a Helical = pretty damn awesome for a street car with mild power.

besides the fact they're overpriced and these days that kind of power level is boring.

we are friendly, we haven't told him to neck himself yet well you see, most of the smart arse replies are actually from the older crew.. ok let's play nice kids.. OP, what power do you want? and at what RPM do you want to hit your targeted boost? and the final question.. how much money do you want to blow?

Buy a modded skyline, sell yours.

Completely fine, the motor will now also happily take more timing too because of going to an external setup. In saying that, don't trash the car till it has been loaded up on the dyno

it actually is pretty accurate, however the scaling is in torr - which people have no understanding about. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torr

hardrace ones aren't too bad.. I'm using them now.. I have 8 degrees of castor dialled into my R33 boat, I wanted to go more but the guy doing my wheel alignment said I'll destroy my ball joints and upper control arm bushes at lightening speeds.

and which aren't that great either... people rave about BC BR, however the masses of BC BR owners have never used any other coilovers.