Dose Pipe Sutututu

coolant line behind the head? that's what I can think of

straight off the thick cable off the ignition barrel into a 5 amp fuse I might have a photo at home.

will work fine, just run 1x o2 and 1x AFM and you'll be fine. Just depin the intake air temp sensor on pin 36 as the RB25DET S2 pin goes to a idle switch or so which the S1 and RB26 doesn't use

I personally have not used Vi-Pec but I can comment on the Haltech & Adaptronic. Haltech is more refined, has enough drivers to run full sequential injection & ignition where as the adaptronic is semi-sequential due to the lack of output, but Adaptronic has native serial input for most widebands and also direct flex sensor connection where as Haltech you will need to use an analog 0-5v input and if you want more inputs you'll need a pricy IO expansion box where as the adaptronic just pull off the cover and hook up additional sensors. Also adaptronic has a built-in 4 bar (43.5 max factoring in 1 bar atmospheric pressure) map sensor where as a Haltech has a 3bar (29psi max factoring in 1 bar atmospheric pressure). If it boils down to features and price, Adatropnic hands down. If it boils down to software refinement and out of the box driveability from day one I would go Haltech.

I just used the ignition source under the steering column for all wideband installs I do. Works a treat, just use a clean ground, preferably on the cars body instead of a shared ground.

are you running an aftermarket ECU? if so the enrichment table(s) for water temp & IAT has not been setup correctly OR someone has set a rev limiter when the motor is cold.

Always mount it away from the turbo outlet, as prolong heat exposure will kill the sensor. Just get an exhaust shop to weld the bung before the cat but after the turbo. I ran my cabling up through the stock EGT probe for the dashlight.

swap for beer or front RHS R33 floor mat LOL

or just a basic MAC valve and let your ECU control it (if it has the capabilities), there's no way a bleed valve can surpass an EBC which runs in close loop oscillating to control the boost.

Dim sim turbo?

I believe this is what you're looking for, I created this map using a mixture of Haltech's base map and the factory RB25DET map from Nistune Also here's a Haltech base map

Heya Skyriners, Pulled these off my car to replace with solid arms #becauseracecar so they're up for sale. They have some adjustment (more than enough for a daily/street car). Will fit RWD S14/15 R33/R34 but NOT GT-R Happy to swap for a case of beer OR some cash, whatever makes you hard. Replace those leaky caster rods NOW! Location: Canley Vale, NSW 2166 Price: $30 Contacts: PM or Reply Here

Or Adaptronic, however be careful of who you bring it too. Some tuners have no idea how to utilise them properly. I've seen a couple of tunes that were ghastly. If you don't need all the inputs,outputs of a full standalone. A Nistune modded ECU is amazing for the money, not mention it now supports a flex sensor input. Also there's a person working on converting it to running a MAP sensor. When that day happens, for the money nistune will be awesome for the money.

LOL, bastard beer economy works well on SAU I've done all sorts of car related stuff for beer, even traded car parts for beer lol

gee.. if you were in Sydney I would have done it for a slab of beer + cost of coils

Stock cams are the best for that, longer duration cams will shift the power/torque towards the higher end of the RPM range.

Saturday, spotted KNG33R FAT33R flashed my headlights and both gave me a weird look LOL

(not sure how related this is to you but here goes) do you have access to a wideband o2? back in the days when I knew nothing about cars (10+ yrs ago).. I had the same issue with my RB20DET, a mate that was doing engineering at uni suggested I hooked up his wideband. Ended up finding out the car was running lean in general when it was in vacuum, turned out my injectors were all clogged. As soon as got all the injectors serviced, new o-rings put in the car started easily and idle was back to stoich.

very cheeky indeed, similar to how OEM cars get away with noise. If you crack open a stock EVO muffler it uses a little flapper to control noise when doodling around town.

I have, I threw my QFM A1RMs into the bin, I'm on "squeal monsters" now (Project MU HC+)

did you disconnect the coolant sensor for the ECU or the one for the dash? the ECU one has 2-wires not 1...

I no haz 4WD lik yew... I like Wakefield because if I lose control, I just eat grass LOL below, epic brake fade !

and awesome pre/post sales support at any weird hour of the day

would the workshop that cocked up the head be liable for the damages he/she caused? If they know their RBs so well and they cocked it up so badly, surely they would just repair/replace the head so they don't get a bad rep right?