Jump to content
SAU Community

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Members
  • Posts

    15,245
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    362
  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. Is the surge tank so the car is more "race pedigree"? You don't need a surge tank man, the S14/15 fuel tanks are better designed than the S13 fuel tank thus you won't have issues with fuel sloshing about and leaning out. If you really want the surge tank just for some rice at those jdmst meets, get those new AI surge tanks that support dual internal pumps with fuel safe bulk heads and fittings that sit ontop. Many photos will get taken of it Heard your racing pedigree clutch had issues...
  2. Pfft, Stage 4 is all you need. Stop hating lol
  3. What happens when the turbines spin backwards?
  4. easy, gggggggggaaaaaaaaaattttttteeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee LOL
  5. I'm bored at work, so I've put this together... this was the 1st run at 1.5bar, the IAT appears pretty stable
  6. I thought they were cool, till I tried to make it go fast..... wasted effort. It's like trying to make a RB25 go fast, hop into a V8 and you has a sads LOL
  7. To keep the rear bumper clean and/or previous owner had enough of the exhaust fumes
  8. I actually had this issue with my old 180SX running a boat anchor RB20 with the battery in the boot... I had 3x thermos connected to come on all at once when the A/C is on and water temp passed 87 degrees. It was enough to make the car stall - so quick trick was to hook up a trigger from the thermo into the power steering input switch.. worked a treat
  9. what the? no.. it's because the voltage is dropping and the tuner hasn't setup the injector dead times properly.. so when voltage drops the injectors are injecting the wrong fuel.. nothing to do with "giving a bit more fuel and air when the fan kicks in".. also you can adjust the idle motor duty cycle on electrical load OR power steering pressure switch input.. Easiest way is to use a diode and pass the negative trigger from the 1/2 thermo fans to the power steering switch input, then enable Power Steering RPM offset in your idle control.. add like 5 or so extra on the duty cycle then presto.
  10. add more fuel to your water temp correction table... 1st column is when your l oad is at 1792, i.e. no load 2nd column is when your load is at 8960, which is approximately atmospheric, i.e. 0.00 psi ECU will interpolate between the two to determine how much correction is required... so now when your car is super cold, say 30c you see in the example there will be 14% more fuel on no load and 29% more fuel when you hit atmospheric.. Now just play around with those numbers till your AFRs richen up vs. water temp Something I would aim for 30c = 13.5 AFR 50c = 14 AFR 80c = 14.7 AFR Also if you have issues cranking at whatever temperature the cranking table will address that.
  11. Ok, so I did some quick reading of a few engineering papers and this came up - although it's for a direct injected motor.. Looks like I may be a little too cautious with the whole IAT vs. Timing.
  12. Problem is with E85 you can't really hear knock.... I do monitor for knock but regardless of timing or boost levels put through the motor the knock readings are pretty similar (mind you it's just a basic knock monitor I'm using with the Adaptronic). I was always under the impression IATs past 50 degrees Celsius is bad, thus I pull back 3 degrees at that point. Most of the runs have been with Virtual Dyno used to estimate torque/power gain. I did some logging when I was at Wakefield too with the laptop under the front seat strapped down. I can't pull boost as IAT increase as the ECU doesn't have that feature and also I use a dedicated EBC which allows for quick changes of settings. In saying that the tune isn't complete, I haven't hired a dyno to finalise and push the tune further as I was still ironing out some bugs.. hopefully will do that after the new year once the shop I hire the dyno opens back up for business again.
  13. Car was just at a dyno day at Powertune so I wasn't controlling the runs.. I did tell Chea to run the car with different boost settings, but at 1.6bar it bled down to 1.5bar. Ended up doing 1x run at 1.5 bar and 2x runs at 1.6bar... I'll upgrade the FMIC and then hire out a dyno and pump more timing through the motor. Adam at Powertune did say my manifold was glowing red by the 2nd run. Signs of high EGTs and/or flow restrictions.. probably won't get round to doing any of what I said till February.. barely have time to do anything with the car these days lol
  14. Alrighty, part where everyone gets excited.. Details: Hypergear SS2 45mm Turbosmart External Gate off Housing (thanks scotty_mn35) E85 1.6bar boost, made more power on 1.5bar IAT shot up to 50 degrees, subsequently lost 3 degrees of timing (I take 1 degree off every 5 degrees above 35) Stock motor Stock manifold, stock plenum Timing Map: Dyno Reading at Power Tune: Virtual Dyno Reading (Using Log File on the same run at Power Tune):
  15. it's just excel I create pivot tables with filters then create graphs from it
  16. When the car was on the dyno, I left the laptop logging data. Looks like the intercooler is unable to keep the charge temps low (I have a GM IAT sensor just after the FMIC). I'm using a HDi core with Plazmaman "swept back" piping.. the FMIC measures 600x300x76mm. P.S. I'll scan my dyno sheet tomorrow at work
  17. better intercooler, I found that my intake air temps shot up to 52 degrees towards the end of each run and subsequently the ECU was taking out 3 degrees of timing (I set it like that so I don't kapow motor)... Turns out the HDi intercoolers are ok, but cooling wise they aren't that great when you're putting through 1.6bar of boost.. when I did logging on the streets with quick squirts in 2nd and 3rd gear intake temps were great, but the true test is when it's off it's chops in 4th on a dyno. I'm seeing if it's worth getting a 100mm Plazmaman cooler OR just a ling long dim sim 600x300x100..
  18. Side feeds are gay when you go into the bigger capacity region.. I learnt the hard way, and here's an article I wrote on how to get top feeds into a R33 using the stock plenum... http://www.trak-life.com/diy-converting-top-feed-injectors-r33-gts-t-skyline-rb25det/ don't think Andrew's kits fit under the stock plenum
  19. Spotted MAD-33R at Milsons Point this morning as I was walking to work
  20. ....... yes that is the truth On another note, decided to strap my shit box to Powertune's heart breaker dyno.. only made 315kW... however I did notice my manifold was glowing red, meaning it needs MOAR timing I logged all three runs too on my laptop and transposed that data into Virtual Dyno and used a lower reading "mustang dyno" setting and it was showing 345kW... Another guy with a R34 GT-t said his car was making well over 360kW, and only put out 320kW.... so I'm pretty happy with my results overall considering it was all self tuned & self built. I'll take a snap of my dyno sheet tonight for lulz. So (again), I've decided to keep my car - this means more mods.
  21. Go on E85, lean outs result in misfires not kapowed motors (well 2 out of 3 instances)
  22. Fine, I'm not going to lie. I wanted gate LOL Fek all those Honda homo vtecs, I has gate... Don't be mad
  23. did you just blanket timing across the map? I started off with a decent 98 map then just went Ctrl + A and Page UP x5 LOL.. of course that was just to get started
×
×
  • Create New...