Dose Pipe Sutututu

dem flutters (yes that's my car nearly 4 years ago haha)

dose is breast, dose scares the VTAK

Just buy a Nismo GT LSD, has adjustable torque settings... for daily use, set it on the lowest setting, for skids, baking, track work increase the torque setting.. It's a piece of piss, just unbolt the RHS drive shaft and stick a socket on the RHS stub and adjust. OR.. just buy a KAAZ diff and run heaps of Limslip addictive.. mine doesn't even hop when I do a normal speed u-turn.

buy a CTEK charger, they're designed for this. All 4WD, Boating and Caravan enthusiasts use them. Fantastic unit.

and the NEO has VCT, which makes a world of a difference trying to spool any turbo. The earlier you can get torque, the more exhaust flow you'll have meaning your turbo will start to boogie quicker.

install a high CFM fan on the side mount, and introduce good ducting. I would still monitor IAT regardless

^ that is laggy, however is your rpm gauge reading correctly? I know mine has about a 200rpm difference to what is being shown by the ECU up the top end. Never know, your cluster could be off its tits

longer runners will induce some lag but not as much as 500 rpm. another way around it is to come on boost a little leaner with less timing. This will increase EGTs and get the turbo to boogie quicker I'm tempted to FSU and go a GTX, twin scroll with twin gates if I ever get bored.

E85 was readily available here that's why, water meth boys did 300kW+ though

you need to monitor what your afr reads on and off throttle and also on transient throttle. Ben and I have told you plenty times get a wideband

Good price, needs to be destickered and unriced... way too dim sim looking but does have decent gear on it.

those jumps are normal, you need a wideband... possible your throttle enrichment table is off its chops.

I also am running well over 300kW on the stock plenum and also stock exhaust manifold No need for fancy shit, save that money for rack and tits

I'm in the same boat, might start next week.. got my ARP studs the other day for $239 Just so lazy now because it's cold..

torque is more linear lol...

what Intake Air Temps are you registering? I wonder if it's more so the intake temp that's promoting more power rather than flow, etc.

The reason why I said that is because your EBC will need less duty cycle to achieve the boost requirements so it's working within a smaller range, where as now it's working to control boost in a greater range.... alternatively, just get a bigger gate. I personally like to load up the gate with 75% of the targeted max boost.

attached is a pretty sedate map (which is heaps nicer than the factory Adaptronic map)... of course don't use this map and thrash you car expecting it to be perfect.... USE AT YOUR OWN RISK... It's for stock injectors and other stock stuff and a Hypergear SS2.. of course you can use it for other turbos but best to drive the car off boost till you see your favourite tuner that knows how to use an adaptronic ECU & software.. make sure you learn the TPS at 0% and 100% as each car is set differently.. then check your base timing, make sure it's synced at 15. Stock Injectors on 98: http://www.adaptronic.com.au/forum/index.php?topic=5753.0

more springs

unplug CAS is what 99% of the SAU community does.. the other 1% might YOLO and just start the car then crack the rev limiter lol

here's some more R33 vs. SS2 love, but this one is externally gated - had to turn down the boost to 1.3bar during the day as the head was lifting at 1.6bar LOL

the map I put together should be ok for a standard turbo, however best to pull off about 2~3 degrees around 0.8 bar to be safe... the base adaptronic map is only for starting your car and rolling it to the tuner haha.. it's really rough, whereas a Haltech map is more similar to a factory timing map. I based my map on the Haltech map with a mixture of the Nistune rom.

SOLD!

^ and I have a map you can use with your stock injectors, and a hypergear turbo which is good up to 1 bar (maxes out injectors) lol

^ pry the grey plastic retainer from the top side (where you see the pins).. then you can use a small jeweler flat head and push down the pins and eventually they will slide out along with the rear seal.