Dose Pipe Sutututu

My turn http://www.trak-life.com/diy-converting-top-feed-injectors-r33-gts-t-skyline-rb25det/ Just about every car enthusiast with their offensively powerful turbocharged vehicle will eventually hit a brick wall with the fuel demands by their motor. Question is, do you stop there? Certainly not! Time to get that fuel system up to scratch and invest more money into your prized depreciating asset that upsets the other half. (In our defense though your pride and joy will probably cost you less than your partner’s wardrobe and will have better resale value so you can use that excuse next time.) As you may know, Nissan decided their humble R33 GTS-t should use side feed injectors for whatever reason and yes finding ways to upgrade to better modern better flowing injectors is a nightmare. Often people would make the choice of going high flowed side feeds (milling out the stock injector). However this has many issues which predominantly revolve around spray pattern, consistent fuel delivery and failure. All of which the Fridge unfortunately suffered from recently – hence the conversion to top feeds instead. So chances are if you’re reading this article you’ve either maxed out your current R33 GTS-T Skyline injectors and are looking to upgrade your injectors the right way OR gone high flowed side feeds and absolutely hate it. Then again you could be an avid trak-life.com supporter and just like reading our articles. Rest assured, this guide should give you plenty of information on how to convert your annoying side feed injectors to top feed injectors and you’re under safe hands. Parts Required: 6x Top Feed 1/2 Height 14mm Injectors 6x 14mm to 11mm converters/spacers 6x EV1 to JECs Connectors 1x 11mm Slim RB25DET Fuel Rail & Fittings 2x -6AN to 3/8” Barb 90 Degree Fittings 1x 1/4npt grub 2m of EFI Fuel Hose (preferably E85 compatible) 4x EFI Fuel Hose Clamps 1x Fuel Pressure Regulator 1x Fuel Pressure Gauge Some form of lubricant Tools: Socket Set Allen Key Set Spanner Set Phillips & Flat Head Screw Drivers Duration: 3 Hours (excluding time to remove old injectors & rail) Difficulty: Medium Profanity Level: Medium Prerequisite: Stock Fuel Injection system removed Please refer to this guide written by MearCat on Skylines Australia to help with the removal:http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/140970-injectors-how-to-removereplaceupgrade/ So now that your engine bay is looking empty with the fuel injection system missing and your throttle body removed, it’s time to get cracking. But before anything, take a deep breath and brace yourself for a few hours of swearing. Upside, look at all that room for your top feed injectors! Step 1: Clean and fit the male to male fittings to the end of the rail, make sure there’s enough force to crush the crush washers if not you may be prone to having fuel leaks. At the same time, fit the grub screw to the top of the rail (if you’re not using this port as a fuel return) Step 2: Lubricate the injector bosses and slide the o-rings on, taking as much care as possible to avoid dust/grit between the boss & o-rings Step 3: Clean the plenum injector seats and carefully install the injector boss & o-ring for each cylinder on the plenum. This is best done by applying a thin layer of oil on the seats and using a cloth to gently push in the injector boss. Do not rush this, as it’s air tight it will go down very slowly. Step 4: Start by lubricating the top injector collars and inserting them into the rail. The use of motor oil is more than sufficient. These collars should just slide into place with not much issue once lubricated. At the same time lubricate the injector top & bottom o-rings and test fit them. You may admire your artwork if you choose. Step 5: Fit all the injectors into the injector boss for each cylinder, this step might be a little tricky as there is very limited room available – however with the aid of a few beers this may reduce stress levels Step 6: Time to get the rail on, but before that make sure you have slipped on the correct bolts into the bottom row as it will be nearly impossible to slide the bolts on once the rail is on the plenum & injectors. Carefully lower the rail in place and start with applying light pressure on cylinder 6 and gradually working your way to the front. Once complete it should look flat and not touch anything. Step 7: Align all the injectors so the connectors face upwards and predominantly vertical (not essential). Wriggle the bolts out nearly all the way and slide in the shorter spacers down. Once ready bolt up from the middle up and then the outer bolts lasts using a 90 degree Allen Key (possible to use a Hex Head socket, however there is quite limited room). Step 8: Time to get the fuel feed sorted, attach and secure fuel hose to the fitting and attach it to the back of the rail then feed the hose back to the top of the fuel filter. Cut to length and attach. Step 9: Now to get the return line sorted, attach and secure fuel hose to the 90 degree barb fitting and attach it to the front of the rail. Cut the fuel hose to length then feed this hose to the Inlet Side of the fuel pressure regulator. Step 10: Using the convertor connectors, attached to the factory harness. Using some silicone spray will greatly help with this process. Step 11: Connect all the injectors back to the harness, make sure it is in the correct order or else you’ll have issues with your car running correctly. Connect the injector harness back to the main harness Step 12: Attach/extend vacuum hose back to fuel pressure regulator, attach the return line and mount fuel regulator in a sensible location as adjustments will be required Step 13: Re-attach throttle body and all required hoses/lines Step 14: Before starting, make sure the fuel system has been primed to remove all the air pockets. This can be done by flicking on the ignition without starting the car multiple times. You should be able to hear air pockets flow back into the fuel tank. At the same time it is wise to roughly adjust your fuel pressure to 3bar OR 43.5psi without the engine running. Step 15: Time to rescale the ECU to accept the new injectors, this can be easily done if you have access to your ECU’s programming interface if not time to tow your car to the tuner! Step 16: Start your car, it should fire up instantaneously and purr if the injector scaling is correct! Step 17: Time to recheck the fuel pressure once again, it should ideally show 3bar minus total vacuum at idle, i.e. 2.6 bar OR just disconnect the vacuum hose and adjust the regulator so it display 3 bar at idle. All done! Time to enjoy your new injectors and screw in more boost (and a good tune too).

done and dusted... started after you and finished before you http://www.trak-life.com/diy-converting-top-feed-injectors-r33-gts-t-skyline-rb25det/ Just about every car enthusiast with their offensively powerful turbocharged vehicle will eventually hit a brick wall with the fuel demands by their motor. Question is, do you stop there? Certainly not! Time to get that fuel system up to scratch and invest more money into your prized depreciating asset that upsets the other half. (In our defense though your pride and joy will probably cost you less than your partner’s wardrobe and will have better resale value so you can use that excuse next time.) As you may know, Nissan decided their humble R33 GTS-t should use side feed injectors for whatever reason and yes finding ways to upgrade to better modern better flowing injectors is a nightmare. Often people would make the choice of going high flowed side feeds (milling out the stock injector). However this has many issues which predominantly revolve around spray pattern, consistent fuel delivery and failure. All of which the Fridge unfortunately suffered from recently – hence the conversion to top feeds instead. So chances are if you’re reading this article you’ve either maxed out your current R33 GTS-T Skyline injectors and are looking to upgrade your injectors the right way OR gone high flowed side feeds and absolutely hate it. Then again you could be an avid trak-life.com supporter and just like reading our articles. Rest assured, this guide should give you plenty of information on how to convert your annoying side feed injectors to top feed injectors and you’re under safe hands. Parts Required: 6x Top Feed 1/2 Height 14mm Injectors 6x 14mm to 11mm converters/spacers 6x EV1 to JECs Connectors 1x 11mm Slim RB25DET Fuel Rail & Fittings 2x -6AN to 3/8” Barb 90 Degree Fittings 1x 1/4npt grub 2m of EFI Fuel Hose (preferably E85 compatible) 4x EFI Fuel Hose Clamps 1x Fuel Pressure Regulator 1x Fuel Pressure Gauge Some form of lubricant Tools: Socket Set Allen Key Set Spanner Set Phillips & Flat Head Screw Drivers Duration: 3 Hours (excluding time to remove old injectors & rail) Difficulty: Medium Profanity Level: Medium Prerequisite: Stock Fuel Injection system removed Please refer to this guide written by MearCat on Skylines Australia to help with the removal:http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/140970-injectors-how-to-removereplaceupgrade/ So now that your engine bay is looking empty with the fuel injection system missing and your throttle body removed, it’s time to get cracking. But before anything, take a deep breath and brace yourself for a few hours of swearing. Upside, look at all that room for your top feed injectors! Step 1: Clean and fit the male to male fittings to the end of the rail, make sure there’s enough force to crush the crush washers if not you may be prone to having fuel leaks. At the same time, fit the grub screw to the top of the rail (if you’re not using this port as a fuel return) Step 2: Lubricate the injector bosses and slide the o-rings on, taking as much care as possible to avoid dust/grit between the boss & o-rings Step 3: Clean the plenum injector seats and carefully install the injector boss & o-ring for each cylinder on the plenum. This is best done by applying a thin layer of oil on the seats and using a cloth to gently push in the injector boss. Do not rush this, as it’s air tight it will go down very slowly. Step 4: Start by lubricating the top injector collars and inserting them into the rail. The use of motor oil is more than sufficient. These collars should just slide into place with not much issue once lubricated. At the same time lubricate the injector top & bottom o-rings and test fit them. You may admire your artwork if you choose. Step 5: Fit all the injectors into the injector boss for each cylinder, this step might be a little tricky as there is very limited room available – however with the aid of a few beers this may reduce stress levels Step 6: Time to get the rail on, but before that make sure you have slipped on the correct bolts into the bottom row as it will be nearly impossible to slide the bolts on once the rail is on the plenum & injectors. Carefully lower the rail in place and start with applying light pressure on cylinder 6 and gradually working your way to the front. Once complete it should look flat and not touch anything. Step 7: Align all the injectors so the connectors face upwards and predominantly vertical (not essential). Wriggle the bolts out nearly all the way and slide in the shorter spacers down. Once ready bolt up from the middle up and then the outer bolts lasts using a 90 degree Allen Key (possible to use a Hex Head socket, however there is quite limited room). Step 8: Time to get the fuel feed sorted, attach and secure fuel hose to the fitting and attach it to the back of the rail then feed the hose back to the top of the fuel filter. Cut to length and attach. Step 9: Now to get the return line sorted, attach and secure fuel hose to the 90 degree barb fitting and attach it to the front of the rail. Cut the fuel hose to length then feed this hose to the Inlet Side of the fuel pressure regulator. Step 10: Using the convertor connectors, attached to the factory harness. Using some silicone spray will greatly help with this process. Step 11: Connect all the injectors back to the harness, make sure it is in the correct order or else you’ll have issues with your car running correctly. Connect the injector harness back to the main harness Step 12: Attach/extend vacuum hose back to fuel pressure regulator, attach the return line and mount fuel regulator in a sensible location as adjustments will be required Step 13: Re-attach throttle body and all required hoses/lines Step 14: Before starting, make sure the fuel system has been primed to remove all the air pockets. This can be done by flicking on the ignition without starting the car multiple times. You should be able to hear air pockets flow back into the fuel tank. At the same time it is wise to roughly adjust your fuel pressure to 3bar OR 43.5psi without the engine running. Step 15: Time to rescale the ECU to accept the new injectors, this can be easily done if you have access to your ECU’s programming interface if not time to tow your car to the tuner! Step 16: Start your car, it should fire up instantaneously and purr if the injector scaling is correct! Step 17: Time to recheck the fuel pressure once again, it should ideally show 3bar minus total vacuum at idle, i.e. 2.6 bar OR just disconnect the vacuum hose and adjust the regulator so it display 3 bar at idle. All done! Time to enjoy your new injectors and screw in more boost (and a good tune too).

true story rant... Took the advice of many and bought a set of Five-O Motorsport Redrilled High Flowed Garbage Side Feed Injectors. They were absolutely shit.. was unable to get a stable idle at the factory idle RPM and unable to get my AFRs to stoich.. Dead times they provided were absolutely rubbish, had to make up my own table to get the car to idle. Even so, cruise was garbage, economy was garbage.. spray pattern? what pattern? Anyhow, sold them on Gumtree - then spend $800 and converted to top feed Siemens DEKA IV injectors.. was awesome. I now cruise at 17.2 AFR and it runs perfect... Moral of the story, side feeds are gay.

FWIW (from my own experiences) - after switching over to E85 (still using stock lines) within 2 tanks I decide to change filter... Being the bored and inquisitive person that I am, I cracked it open.. it was filthy.. looked like nearly coffee coloured and had some gunk in it. Then popped in a new filter, several tanks later I decided to change to all Gates barricade lines because I was feeling rich LOL... then changed my filter again.. cracked open the 2nd filter and it was filthy again but not as much as the first one. The car is probably due for another filter change, I'll report back. Note: I only use Ryco Z201 filters as I'm cheap and can't afford OEM Nissan ones.

^ lol... like I said he modded his chassis..

He modded his chassis

Still for sale, however now car runs a set of Siemens DEKA IV 875cc 40mm Injectors with a Top Feed Rail.. not to mention motor now happily ingests 23psi This is me taking it easy:

spotted an asian chic in a dark (black?) R34 GT-t coming down the Boulevard, Fairfield.. gave her a wave and she looked at me asif I was a retard lol..

E85 too

I like vagina

Buy a real ECU

BUMP FREE WALL UNIT, WILL THROW IN A COLD ONE TOO DRYER IS GONE

Unplug TPS, unplug IACV.. then make sure your idle is screwed in at 650rpm (as per recommendation for a RB25DET).. then set timing at 15 degrees BTDC. Car will run ok.. but wouldn't be nice to run.. you could blanket an additional 2 degrees on top to make your base timing 17 degrees. It's a NA so should be fine (of course check for audible knock).

even with stock plenum you can easily mount top feed injectors & rail without any shaving of anything sidefeeds are gay.. they work ok.. but on a SR20.. I find with RB25s they are gay, many gays

Sounds very crazy but how rich is your car running on noise? Remember E85 doesn't like being too rich. If you convert to gasoline scaling E85 likes to burn around 12.2 to 12.7. I did have issues with my shitbox misfiring completely when my AFRs dropped below 11.6 another crazy thing about E85 if you run very low timing it will also miss. This was what I've read and also experienced when I was tuning my car. I used 98 timing on E85 at high boost as a starting point when I was tuning and it would misfire. Now I've ironed out those issues, I've got a freaking voltage drop problem lol

I will certainly investigate that, probably do it at the same time when I do my flex setup as I need to crack open the ECU cover to utilise the AUX input/output connector I've already ditched the FPCM & also the factory relay.. I'm taking the trigger directly of the ECU (trigger that goes to the factory relay).. so even if the FPCM & the factory relay is cactus my fuel pump will still be fed with power. I notice many people use the output of their factory relay to trigger their external relay. Probably not the best way to do it, as if the factory relay dies.. you're up shit creek lol... I also dream of Haltech as it's launch control is light years ahead of the Adaptronic

^ you're lucky it was just the power cabling.. I tested it on the alternator itself and the voltage was fluctuating... I'm guessing it's tired, it is an 18 year old car with probably 400 000km on in after everyone having a go at winding back the odometer lol

You sound offended, I apologise if I've offended you - however my intent was not to. I am speaking from experience, also my close mates all have had the same experience as I have.

Followed your advice, did a probe when cold voltage was about ~13.6 and down to ~13.2 when I revved it.. Tried it again when the car was hot (after a drive to the shops & back) voltage was around ~13 on idle and dropped to about ~12.8 when I revved it. This is pretty consistent to the drop I've logged from my ECU. Now to waste more money

sure thing You've seen my car (I think).. it's not that low. The rears have about a 2cm gap to the guard and the fronts about 3cm.

buy one off the internats.. then take out your entire diff.. bring it to a diff specialist to fit your diff centre.. go home, break it in (according to the instructions) and then rip skids.

I have exactly 1x output available lol... Let's see if I'm bored, I might give it a crack... thinking of setting up flex on the car, however I don't like the way Adaptronic does it..

^ I use a pov spec Adaptronic ECU can't see myself buying a Haltech that cost as much as my rusty R33 haha

hahaha I really wanted a low voltage step down! hey wasn't a poorly wiring arrangement, the only flaw in my setup was relying on the factory FPCM to give a signal to my relay to route the ground into the resistor pack and once a signal was given from the FPCM the relay would ground off the negative feed into the pump. Positive side runs into another 40AMP relay which goes into a 30AMP fuse into the battery.

get with the times saved my motor on the track last time, car cut out then gave it another hit on the straight and realised.. fuarkkk my AFRs are lean as..! turned out my FPCM died so my dual relay setup with my own resistor pack was only giving my pump ~10V, then earthed the 2nd relay and away I went again till I snapped my front anti roll bar link LOL