Dose Pipe Sutututu

I understand now lol

go to page 13 of the manual Shoota_77 has posted up.. Helps if you read it

a little hard with all my pipe work and hoses in the way.. however I will pull it off after the track day and test it.. lucky car runs a map sensor so will run fine without any hoses attached will report back if that's the case will need to run new power cabling as suggested, however my battery is in the boot!!

I wonder if this has massive effect on my misfiring issue

someone buy me because I'm moving soon and need less shit in the house just threw into the bin other stuff I had lying around

NOTHING LEFT, THREW IT ALL IN THE BIN

the base haltech map is pretty safe/well put together all I really need are the injector details (size, deadtime vs. voltage)

spotted (I think Kat) in a white R32 GT-R with a female driver heading down cumberland highway towards the ghetto on Friday arvo

Loads of torque kills them

Just put more boost into the motor, will make up for the low compression

Sounds silly, sounds like they're going to plug up a Bee R and it also sounds like you didn't read my post

not enough 2 stroke oil?

leggo... speed off the streets.. iz take annual leave..

Not sure what the point of this thread is?

Well let's say if the charged air going into the motor is 25 degrees Celsius and the motor will happily take 14 degrees of timing, and for each 1 degree of timing the power increase is exponentially decaying in growth then you would assume the motor is near max torque/power for that given load point & rpm. However say when the intake charge temp is now 45 degrees Celsius due to heat soak and ambient air temp.. the motor now perhaps could only take 11 degrees of timing for that given load point and rpm for that temperature... the 4 degrees lacking is compensated in the intake air temp ignition trim table.. So now say if you're not running one.. regardless of the intake air temp.. once the motor hits that load point & rpm it will just ignite the fuel at 14 degrees before top dead centre.. and yes it would very unhappy. Not to mention the car would be pig rich.. oxygen density is lower at that temperature and the same amount of fuel is injected resulting in a pretty rich burn. Hope that makes sense?

let's go to a speed off the streets session at wakie park..

problem... on a dyno the ambient air is cool and your runs are not back to back... on the track the ambient air isn't cool and you're on/off the throttle.. this means your IAT could go from 20 to 50 degrees and back down to 25 for example.. a big no no... however if your tuner is switched on (which I hope so) he/she will tune the car not on it's limits so when it does get hot it the motor won't have a spaz attack and knock off its tits.. it will just run extremely rich. Ideally, as IAT increase timing decreases as well as fuel.. and as IAT decreases, fuel increases and timing is brought back to what it has been dialled as on the dyno... if you want you could add more timing as the IAT gets even cooler

can't afford, just saying LOL but I'm going to the JDMYard track day next Tuesday... probably be one of the fastest car on the straight and the slowest car around the corners LOL...

you said wakie? WHENNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNN

Do you have a laptop? I can scale a map for you to load up with the larger injectors. I'm assuming you're using the Haltech's onboard MAP sensor too?

DOOOOOOOOOO IT, less noise = better

And a new turbo too, the stock turbo is rubbish

how's your fuel pressure though? I'm hitting 97% with 875cc injectors on E85 with about 1.6bar boost - however running 3bar base pressure. Newer injectors don't mind more fuel pressure, so once I need more "injector" I will bump the base pressure.

thanks Terry, will do next month

I would personally buy one new if you can't see it in person, heck I'll even throw in the Hypergear turbo idea... probably matched performance and new for a little more than that 2nd hand turbo... not to mention awesome support & warranty