Dose Pipe Sutututu

yep, less noisy than the Kumho KU31 I really liked them, but had to upgrade the INVO to NT01 for track purposes.. found the INVO would die after 2/3 laps

Get some Kumho KU31 or KU39 as it's just a street car.. both tyres mentioned are heaps better that those Falken tyres. OR Step it up a notch, get some Nitto INVO, fantastic daily tyre that doesn't mind a few laps on the track.

shimmed VLSDs are gay. get a proper LSD OR lock it with a welder if it's for dori

just get coils and maybe some cheapie SAFC unit lean the motor out.. a full standalone isn't worth it at all

Hey Guys, I have a black 1/4 panel, front RHS guard for $50 No dents, just has been painted in black from a $2 can from GOLO or so.. my mates bought it for me because they thought I needed a guard, but I already have a spare one LOL (just been to lazy to spray/fit). $50 and it's yours.. no beer this time, moving houses need less shit with me. has indicator too Location: Canley Vale, NSW Price: $50

NOS best value for money, proven time & time again. Don't waste money on a motor build, that has got to be the dumbest thing to do.

Making 400hp & response from a RB20DET is not going to be cheap. Making 400hp & response from a RB25DET is more cost effective and you'll spend less time & money. More money for hookers & cocaine.

Now that's torque to talk about, nice and flat!

relays on ABS pumps dead, most likely.. common Nissan issue... borrow someone's set and see how you go

but it looks pretty, I mean pretty shit because it's a Plazmaman knock off that has ghastly looking welds.

if you want a bang for buck ECU "reflash" (I use that term loosely as it's actually more than just a flash) contact a tuner name Toshi (he's also a business sponsor here). He has off the shelf ECU remaps for basic mods such as more boost, FMIC, exhaust, etc.. and it's pretty cheap.

LOL... spot on, these cars are money pits.. they're worse than a drug addiction

sounds good, I will PM They're both 7 year old Panasonic Inverters and installed back to back at a fibro house atm.. it will then need to be installed back to back at a brick veneer house.

Heya guys & girls! Just hoping if anyone is able to help me out here. I have 2x fairly decent and not so old split systems at my current place which I would like removed and re-installed at my partner's property. I've called a few air conditioning guys however they want either the same price as a new air conditioner or refuse to do the job. So just wondering if anyone can help me out (cash & beer of course ) I'm located in Canley Vale, NSW Cheers!

now you need one of your other mates to give you an aftermarket ECU or at a minimum a Toshi modified/reflashed stock ECU.

take the car for a spin, then park it on jack stands and/or a hoist.. once the motor is off and the cooling system is inactive you might be able to see a build up as the water heats up from lack of airflow.

coolant line behind the head? that's what I can think of

straight off the thick cable off the ignition barrel into a 5 amp fuse I might have a photo at home.

will work fine, just run 1x o2 and 1x AFM and you'll be fine. Just depin the intake air temp sensor on pin 36 as the RB25DET S2 pin goes to a idle switch or so which the S1 and RB26 doesn't use

I personally have not used Vi-Pec but I can comment on the Haltech & Adaptronic. Haltech is more refined, has enough drivers to run full sequential injection & ignition where as the adaptronic is semi-sequential due to the lack of output, but Adaptronic has native serial input for most widebands and also direct flex sensor connection where as Haltech you will need to use an analog 0-5v input and if you want more inputs you'll need a pricy IO expansion box where as the adaptronic just pull off the cover and hook up additional sensors. Also adaptronic has a built-in 4 bar (43.5 max factoring in 1 bar atmospheric pressure) map sensor where as a Haltech has a 3bar (29psi max factoring in 1 bar atmospheric pressure). If it boils down to features and price, Adatropnic hands down. If it boils down to software refinement and out of the box driveability from day one I would go Haltech.

I just used the ignition source under the steering column for all wideband installs I do. Works a treat, just use a clean ground, preferably on the cars body instead of a shared ground.

are you running an aftermarket ECU? if so the enrichment table(s) for water temp & IAT has not been setup correctly OR someone has set a rev limiter when the motor is cold.

Always mount it away from the turbo outlet, as prolong heat exposure will kill the sensor. Just get an exhaust shop to weld the bung before the cat but after the turbo. I ran my cabling up through the stock EGT probe for the dashlight.

swap for beer or front RHS R33 floor mat LOL