Dose Pipe Sutututu

Any forum members here that's keen to weld a 1.75" resonator & a 30/45 degree bend to my screamer pipe? Had an appointment with Hax and he decided not to show up at his shop... cbf going back. I know his work is immaculate but the guy never picks up his phone and tells me to come on a time/day and doesn't show.

try something like this: http://www.nofrillscaraudio.com.au/jvc-kw-v10-6-1-multimedia-dvd-car-stereo

ohhkay.. I dew yew breast pry... $110 pick up - it's brand newwwwwwwwwwww

spotted LONGZ R34 GT-R at Repco

Just as a sanity check, see if there's a massive voltage drop once hour AC is running. That could be a possible reason to why your combustion is leaning out. Also it's advisable to run O2 feedback on to allow the ECU to trim the fuel mixtures to stoich on idle and cruise with/without the AC on. If your factory narrowband is dead just use your wideband and connect the "simulated" narrowband direct to the harness. Works a treat!

Install it after your FMIC however don't install it in the engine bay as it will heat soak. On the ECU you will need to run a wire from pin 36 to the sensor and another wire from pin 30 (sensor ground) to the intake air temp sensor. Do not ground it off on the chasis, it will read wrong. Series 2 ECU will have something connected to pin 36 but just chop it. I believe it's the TPS close position which is useless. On a RB26DETT harness it's used also as the IAT

There's a table that lists the temp and the enrichment in both negative and positive. When the charged air is more cold more fuel required as the air is more dense. Without adding more fuel your combustion will burn leaner and reverse goes for warmer air, it's less dense so you need less fuel. Very crucial sensor for a MAP car

Interesting, do as you please

Why do you need a narrowband for a tune? Who's telling you to do it?

I really hope you're setting your base timing at the CAS and using a timing light to sync it to what the ECU perceives as the base timing. And as mentioned make sure you lock the timing before you go and set tour CAS to sync with what the ECU expects the base timing to be.

Aren't you planning to run a wideband with that feedback connected into your ECU? If so why would you bother with the stock narrowband? I would just delete it all in total.

clearly I didn't read the post properly lol

most modern aftermarket ECUs have launch control + anti lag.. there are two main types of "launch control" just a simple 2-step, meaning there's a fuel cut at a specific RPM when the vehicle speed is set less than say 5 km/h. Once the wheels start turning, i.e. post launch the motor can freely rev up to the 2nd rev limiter 2-step rev limiter AND ignition retard & enrichment, this is achieved similar to a 2-step however as the engine RPM reaches the launch rpm window say between 3800 ~ 4000rpm it will retard the timing by 'x' amount (configurable) and inject more fuel.. this will allow the combustion to occur after top dead centre meaning it will happen in the exhaust side inside of the cylinder chamber causing this hectic bangssssss and will spool the turbo Each ECU is different... Haltech & Megasquirt for example have absolute ignition retard.. so when the RPM & vehicle speed & water temp meet the right conditions timing will be set to a absolute value say 5 degrees ATDC and inject say 5% more fuel for that load point resulting in a bang and spooling the turbo. Adaptronic however uses a slightly different way to achieve this.. it blankets a retard value.. say if we apply 20 degrees it will go to that load cell and minus off 20 degrees.. so if the load cell is 15 and we apply the 20 retard.. it means the final timing value is 5 deg ATDC.. .. FWIW.. I have my setup to retard & richen up given these values (vehicle speed < 10km/h, retard & enrich 3800rpm+, ignition cut at 4000rpm) which results in a few bangs and flames out of the gate & exhaust.. this gives me about 1bar boost for launch. Of course it's totally useless on the streets as once the wheels spin it will just bake tyres and when you put it into 2nd the wheels are still just spinning and you end up going no where... I set it up for the drag strip where it's stickier however haven't had tthe chance to test it out,.

I recently fitted a trans cooler to my power steering return line.. then filled it up with Dextron ATF fluid..done

get the sports series.. it has a NC10T pressure plate (SIlver in colour).. the pink ones tend to fail after some time (back in the days, not sure about now)

this is how I get it aligned.. set all cam gears into the exact location, then put belt over it and cable tie it on temporarily as you put the belt over the idler/tensioner & crank. Once everything "looks" ok.. remove cable ties and crank the motor by hand (remove the spark plugs as it's easier).. do it a few times clockwise only.. then check again.. Once she's sweet, nip up the tensioner nut.

FREE RB25DET S2 Stock Anti Roll bar / Sway Bar (front) FREE SR20DET S15 Radiator SOLD $150 Yellow Jacket Coil Packs for RB25DET S1.2/2, Stagea Non-Neo RB25DET (7x coils) - happily held 1.2 bar of boost SOLD 2x Falken Azensis RT615 225/35/17 with around 3mm tread SOLD $40 RB25DET S2 AFM SOLD $200 RB25DET S2 ABS Diff - minus ABS sensor SOLD $20 RB25DET S2 Stock Anti Roll bars / Sway Bars (back) SOLD $180 RB25DET S2 Turbo - no shaft play, exhaust wheel in one piece & no snapped studs SOLD $150 NPC 400kW Clutch Plate - Barely Used, worn 0.03mm / Will fit any RB SOLD $40 BRAND NEW OEM Rear Main Seal & Spigot Bush for RB2xDExx motors - 12279-5L310 SOLD $10 RB25DET S2 Rubber Intake Pipe SOLD $10 110L/h Fuel Pump that fits in stock position SOLD $10 RB25DET S2 Factory dump pipe & down pipe SOLD $10 RB25DET/RB20DET Factory Manifold SOLD $10 RB25DET S2 Stock Blow Off Valve SOLD $10 RB25DET S2 Radiator SOLD $50 RB25DET S2 Stock SMIC & Pipes SOLD$40 BRAND NEW Braided Oil Feed Line for Stock RB25DET Turbo Threw it into the bin $10 RB25DET S2 handbrake boot & gear boot (1x OEM 1x Aftermarket) Threw it into the bin $10 RB25DET S2 HICAS Rack & Tie Rods Threw it into the bin $10 Alloy BOV Bung/Plug Threw it into the bin $10 RB25DET S2 Fan Clutch

slightly related, however related to my previous posts. I've taken Trent's advice and gapped my new set of plugs down to 0.55mm and running 7 range plugs - idle noticeably not as silky smooth but at least it's not spluttering. At 1.6bar there's still a little breakdown, which I am thinking could be coil related. Then last night, I was going through my logs.. I noticed something VERY strange.. my voltage (recorded at the ECU) is around 13.6V on idle which is good however each time the car comes on boost the voltage falls back close to 12.1V - now that can't be good. This could be the very reason why I keep getting misfiring issues with whatever dwell setting I've set. Next is to replace my alternator and see if it goes away

I don't understand.. how can adding a restriction increase gas velocity & movement of more volume? I understand once air cools, it's more dense thus creating a pressure difference pre/post cat.. however it's not enough to warrant any kind of vacuum effect to accelerate exhaust flow.

Or sounds like it's an EBay turbo that wasn't designed to spool

Look at the stock one and add the thickness of the spacer too. Look in the hypergear thread, I listed exact length, and pitch.

They're not even useful as boat anchors, maybe good as a paperweight if that

Are you using a real wideband or those stupid narrowband gauges that show absolutely nothing but flashing lights. By the way, LS coils will need more ignition dwell time to work properly. Given the fact you're using a stock ECU I am under the assumption there isn't enough spark generated

What ECU are you using? I vaguely remember you wanted an e manage. Poor water temp vs. injection would attribute to your horrendous start

why would you buy a dim sim special turbo, re balance it and re seal it, etc.. it will end up costing as much as a proper turbo to begin with.. if you're really keen on ling long special turbos at least go with a Kando peking duck special.