Dose Pipe Sutututu

Subjective, I think it's a terrible turbo when compared to today's modern offerings. Only thing "good" about it, is that it doses very well. You get a nice suuuuuututututut lol

GT2871 is so old, it's not 2003 anymore.

Should be worth a F80 LCI M3 Competition. Will straight swap!

Get a GTX2860R Gen 2, it will do about 250~260kW and come all close to the side of 3000rpm on E85. Here's a post I wrote about it: https://www.instagram.com/p/Crr_8gOyC3e/

Great guide!

Built.

@PranK can you please remove his number!

Because we are Aussies, make sure the cnut never comes back attitude.

Their design requirements consisted of Japanese roads and Japanese circuits. They probably thought the rest of the developed nations had roads like theirs.

Better not tell the folks at Whiteline that! They have a good marketing team, all this grip activated marketing fluff. A car with stiff springs and not overly stiff ARBs feels so much nicer than a car with soft springs and ARBs made from Thor's mallet handle. I know there are very opposing views on this however look at the touge cars in Japan, they follow the same philosophy of stiffer springs to control pitch and roll. The Japanese only got a bad rep because their suspension is often called "junk" as they don't suit our roads. But really who's to blame here? Our shit, 3rd world grade roads or their suspension designed for smooth roads?

Some past & current experience. I've done the whole SK Bilstein Kit on both R33 shitboxes, 1st R33 came with it from the previous owner, 2nd R33 I bought them used off (can't remember his name) when he converted his R33 into a track car. 1st R33 shit box had factory ARBs and somewhat the car was quite compliant for road use. 2nd R33 shit box (current one) I ran the thickest Whiteline ARBs, at the time I "thought" it drove and rode well and that's about the same time I started to hit the track as well. I found the thick ARBs would allow the car to ride "flat" and corner "ok", however it would be twitchy AF. Not to mention, because the car had really soft spring rates at the front, the pitch on hard braking was huge, causing even more snap oversteer out of turns. Anyhow decided to bite the bullet and go MCA X-R, at the time I recall them recommending something like a 10kg(f) and 5kg(r) or so, I asked for it to be 10kg(f) and 7kg(r). Installed as is, with the silly Whiteline ARB set on hard, the car handled like absolute shit. Even in the instructions from MCA, they clearly mention to run the factory ARBs and ONLY use them to correct oversteer OR understeer. So I set them both on the softest setting and wow.. straight up the car felt better as each wheel was able to move without full dependence of the opposing wheel and the slight body roll actually enabled the car to turn/grip better instead of understeer into gutters. Fast forward to Wakefield Park closing and me trying out SMSP, I found the current setup a bit too soft at the front. Once again, hit up MCA support and they recommended going a stiffer front spring that was usable on the street & on the track. Initially a 12kg(f) was recommended however @34GeeTeeTee had a set of 13kg(f) lying around so I grabbed them off him. Back on the track and presto, shaved off another 5 seconds. In terms of road use, if you're not going to crash into a pot hole and/or drive over ripple strips, you'll be plesantly surprised the ride quality is near somewhat like a R33 with Bislteins, provided you're just driving on roads and not driving into pot holes, running over things, etc. I know it's hard to believe, however if anyone has been in my car they will know it's actually pretty comfortable when compared to someone with run of the mill BC BR 8kg(f)/6kg(r). I've sat in a few R33, Silvias, etc. with BC BR and they are very, very firm. If you try to adjust the dampers to soft, then end up being super bouncy and unable to attenuate the suspension oscillations. I suspect it has to do with the oil visocity that is used by either brand - however that just an educated guess at best. So TL;DR, Dose hates thick ARBs now. You have body roll? fix it with stiffer springs. Car rides like shit? fix it with better shocks.

Let's try again

I work in IT, complaining is a prerequisite LOL. I went with a legal 35% tint, it's some ceramic bullshit (apparently good?). Got it done by Tint a Car in Moorebank.

Possibly, seems like buying a F80 M3 is easier lol. The prices have come back to earth quite a bit, it's very tempting. I know of I brought one home my wife would stab me (unless the R33 goes for good money, one can dream). What spring rate are you running? Might be worth while just lowering the rear spring rate for comfort, also running thicker anti roll bars don't help with comfort.

Took a photo of the shit box after I dropped my son off at daycare. Doesn't sit flush as the speaker grill is in the way so it needed to be offset to one side. Does the job, with the old tint you couldn't see it, but now you can. My OCD is firing up so at some point will redo it.

weird looking A90 Supra haha

Get extenders and then punch a small hole through the parcel tray 😎

House is coming along nicely, manufacture that equity baby!

Old school fuel caps do I fact seal the fuel filler neck, however there's a vent elsewhere. As of the 80s ish fuel caps started to incorporate 1x way valves to allow air in as Duncan has described.

Been waiting a while for 3rd gear skids.

Hopefully the OG layout is still there, would be nice to see what the shit box can do now with further development.

please post up skids

Something like this: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/373980625436 Has 0.2bar opening pressure. Fuel tank -> Check Valve -> VTA

put a small valve there, something that cracks after 0.1bar of pressure, if not you'll always smell fuel as the fuel tank breathes. I have a one way valve, that cracks open at 0.1bar, some eBay junk. Stops the smell in the garage.