Dose Pipe Sutututu

No such thing, it jumps because the ECU is interpreting load not going into R&R

Disconnect your idle control valve disconnect your TPS disconnect your AAC then adjust the idle screw till its sitting flat bang at the idle prescribed by your PowerFC then plug everything back in

fuarkkkkkkkkk how have you wired your Z32? Did you earth 1x cable to the chassis and 1x earth into the ECU? If so.. there's one of your problem both earths into the ECU (regardless whatever the interwebs says) had the same issue with a S15.. each time the headlights were on.. the TP Load would increase as if there was more air going into the motor and AFRs dropped 1/2 a point... turns out with some hardcore googling.. DVS JEZ (legend) suggested to earth both together and into the ECU.. guess what? that solved the issue. (yes I do tuning for fun).

wouldn't say that's cheap bro...

I personally just buy 3A racing air filters, use them and bin them yearly.

If it's dropping that hard it could be a mixture of TPS and AFM issues. You really need a data logit kit connected to it. There are many variables you need to look at which you're unable to do via the PowerFC controller alone. Best to bring it back to the tuner or like I recommended get your hands on a data logit kit and post up your logs

sure thing - when when you want them? - I'll PM you

yeah different AFM different turbo = different values required just write it all down, and start decreasing it for the RPM affected.. might actually reduce your buckling

I would be very cautious in using that... it's a hit & miss solution and you cannot accurately set the amount of retard vs. rpm thus it's very easy to cook all your exhaust valves as well as destroy your turbo's exhaust wheel.

As you can see my gluing skills aren't that great

Hey there, I have 2x OEM weather shields for a R33 Coupe. Driver Side = Not broken Passenger Side = Snapped in half, missing 2x clips I bought these for my car, and the moron who delivered it broke it... I then went to complain with the courier company but they pretty much said "stiff shit - you signed for broken goods" http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/432607-courier-damaged-items-sent-what-are-my-options/ I did some repairs using araldite glue but when I went to take photos it snapped again.. so mad failz. Price: 2x 6 Packs of Blonde or something like that.. No VB/Fosters/XXX Gold, etc. (I'll take a nice bottle of Red too - no Shiraz) Location: Canley Vale, NSW, 2166 Contacts: HERE or PM

hahah was wondering why you waved instead!

I would install the stock crank damper, that anodised homo blue shit is itching to smash an oil pump

or just buy a JJR metal one and attack it with a dremel I did that, hacked it to fit my aftermarket turbo/piping etc.

turn off your O2 feedback, better yet just disconnect it. Tuners always turn it off when they are tuning to disable the trims. as for your acceleration enrichment, just set it low and work your way up till the car stop buckling.. sometimes it worth adding in more decay.

Keep it disabled then Even if you choose the right afm you'll be surprised it might not run properly. If the afm was again rescale your fuelling will be off

Don't plug your stock afm on, car will run like a bucket of ass as the scaling is different

Get an ecu that allows you to retard timing and add fuel at whatever rpm / speed / load / input for your bang bang - eg haltech adaptronic etc. Bee*R controllers are shit

Just go for Project Mu HC+ or HC800 as they're called now. Just went to bed in the pads, gosh they're bitey

I use them around Wakefield holds up pretty well till about lap 5/6 when they fade. A1RM would fade 3rd lap lol I've just literally installed Project MU HC+ today and giving the shit box a shakedown on the 23rd August with a few mates.

if it pings in any gear then there's an issue.. even lugging the shit out of 5th gear shouldn't ping... you really need to borrow/invest in a FC Datalogit kit and do proper logs, that will helps all of us understand the issue

Yeah those are the newer ones - the older ones (before they had a printed serial on them) were a atrocity - I had 3x let go on me and because they were out of warranty I wasn't covered but Paul from PW ended up selling me replacement ones for $60 delivered. However even with the new ones.. I had spark blowout at 1.3 bar at 0.8mm gap.. if I ran a smaller gap it would work but who wants that? Now I run Splitfires at 1.5bar and 0.8mm gap - happy days.

people with surge tanks etc.. and those who like to install it for looks and shit in their boot of their Honda Civics

YellowJackets - as good as they sound, as good as their marketing say they are.. they're only good for a stock application. Once you start ramming in boost they misfire all over the shop.. then you increase dwell (as you do) and they die on you. In my experience, Splitfires have always been superior even with silly dwell settings.

In theory an AFM/MAF will always be better than a MAP sensor because it measures air density and factors for different temperature & altitude where as a MAP just measures purely pressure. Yes a MAP sensor can work well, when ran in conjunction with a barometer & an intake air temp sensor. In practise - there's no real difference, to the driver it feels the same if not better because there's no issue with reversion and all that kind of shit. This is another reason you see premium cars with AFMs yet MAP for their cheaper variants... good example is an EVO vs. a Lancer/Mirage.. EVO runs an AFM/MAF where as Lancer/Mirage pov spec runs a MAP sensor. I personally run a MAP sensor because I don't run a BOV and like the flutters (it gets the slarts giggly)