Dose Pipe Sutututu

That was me Terry in that ugly purple R33. Thought it was you, but too late to beep

I just started with 0.85ms at 14volts with mine and kept dropping it till I was happy. Most tuners would just set a higher deadtime and lower it till the idle is lean and stable. I remember when I had the Five-O Garden Hoses injectors, the spec sheet said 0.54 at 14v LOLx10 I couldn't get them to idle until they were set at 0.89ms

You should ask him how many gearboxes he has broken lol. I believe it's the same clutch since he first put it in 5 years ago.

Ok, I broke the other one too. Stepped on it by accident. Free, take it away or I'll throw it away

take it away from me $15

$40 BRAND NEW Braided Oil Feed Line for Stock RB25DET Turbo $10 Alloy BOV Bung/Plug $10 110L/h Fuel Pump that fits in stock position $10 RB25DET S2 Factory dump pipe & down pipe $10 RB25DET/RB20DET Factory Manifold $10 RB25DET S2 Stock Blow Off Valve $10 RB25DET S2 Radiator $10 RB25DET S2 Fan Clutch $50 RB25DET S2 Stock SMIC & Pipes $20 RB25DET S2 Stock Anti Roll bar / Sway Bar (front) $10 RB25DET S2 Rubber Intake Pipe $10 RB25DET S2 handbrake boot & gear boot (1x OEM 1x Aftermarket) $10 RB25DET S2 HICAS Rack & Tie Rods $10 SR20DET S15 Radiator SOLD $150 Yellow Jacket Coil Packs for RB25DET S1.2/2, Stagea Non-Neo RB25DET (7x coils) - happily held 1.2 bar of boost SOLD 2x Falken Azensis RT615 225/35/17 with around 3mm tread SOLD $40 RB25DET S2 AFM SOLD $200 RB25DET S2 ABS Diff - minus ABS sensor SOLD $20 RB25DET S2 Stock Anti Roll bars / Sway Bars (back) SOLD $180 RB25DET S2 Turbo - no shaft play, exhaust wheel in one piece & no snapped studs SOLD $150 NPC 400kW Clutch Plate - Barely Used, worn 0.03mm / Will fit any RB SOLD $40 BRAND NEW OEM Rear Main Seal & Spigot Bush for RB2xDExx motors - 12279-5L310

^ I would prefer a Hypergear High Flowed unit, non-Neo of course.. less dicking around and looks 100% stock!

yeah off the turbine housing, used a 45mm Turbosmart Hypergate I've got heaps of photos at home, but check out instagram.com/traklife I've got a few photos here and there.. I'll send you some when I'm back home on my PC

nope, pretty straight forward, just the Kando lines I bought were hard to manipulate to fit

You know the bigger the turbo the more economical the car is? You're not always on boost haha. In saying that, if you're after response check out Borg Warner turbos. They're truly amazing however will burn a hole through your pocket

However I do remember there's a 2D table water temp (static) vs. Ignition trim. By default all the values are 0 on FC Edit. This is why I mentioned half a dozen times you need a data logit kit to make sense of this

That's what the stock ECU does, from what I remember PowerFC does not have that functionality. There's no menu for startup/warm up timing.

Walking to Canley Vale station in the morning haha Saw you last night as I was walking home too lol

it goes up because it's accessing a different cell.. like I mentioned a few posts before, disconnect the TPS & disconnet the IAV and adjust idle to 800 or whatever it is supposed to be at.. then adjust base timing make the ECU (N01, P01) , (N01, P02), (N02, P01), (N02, P02) ALL 20 degrees.. then sync up your base timing.

yep.. probably no need for N03, but just in case do it too.. because A/C usually touches that cell.

^ I think we all mentioned that maybe on page < 10...

do this.. go into powerFC set your timing to 20 degrees on N01,N02,N03 for the first 2 load points, i.e. P01, P02 then unplug your TPS, unplug your IAV and adjust your idle screw so the car idles at 800 rpm (or whatever the idle is on the powerFC) make sure it is sittingi n the right load points, then match your base timing to 20 degrees.

Food for thought... sometimes it's just not worth spending (I'll make up a dollar value) $3k on a standalone + tune on a pretty stock motor (using typical $1000 tune & $2000 Haltech for reference). Same logic can be applied with software development, does this image look familar?

What are you trying to ultimately achieve? If it's just a highflow with stock afm, stock injectors etc.. a simple hack job like this might work (of course not everyone's cup of tea). Get a remap from Toshi to suit your turbo, motor, etc. then install a SAFC or similar with a wideband and tweak AFRs till your happy. Also reduce timing by retarding the CAS by 2/3 degrees as when you bend the AFM signal TP Load references lighter cells. Like I said, not everyone's cup of tea but works.

want me to look at it for a small fee? I have a handheld wideband & Nistune software + cable

I believe the adaptronic does not support automatic transmission (correct me if I'm wrong). If you also look, Nistune has unofficially released the Type 6 board - have a read here (I'm a fan of Nistune, really easy to tune and the software is awesome): http://forum.nistune.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=2719

this thread delivers

You're over thinking it and it appears you're going to end up wasting money on a full sequential ECU like a Haltech, Link, Vipec, etc. There's no need.. for what you're achieving a Toshi remap would be more than enough, get him to burn you an off the shelf ROM and socket your ECU - pop it in and happy days. Considering you're using stock injectors, stock afm, etc.. that would be more than sufficient - ram down 1 bar worth of boost and you'll probably make about 220kW Also FWIW... I'm running a No Frills Adaptronic ECU tuned by myself (only has 4 channels) and it batch fire, batch injector in pairs. With my self tune running a SS2 Hypergear turbo I can get around 400km+ per tank on 98 OR 540km (best ever) highway driving. At the moment, I'm running E85 and getting close to 350km per tank (normal civilised driving)..

Those traces look fine to me man

^ doooo it, anti lag launch control is the best