Dose Pipe Sutututu

^ yep I cringe when I hear/see people doing it to their built motors! Then they will say "well just baby it till it gets to the right temp" during that time most of the west and tear is happening but each to their own right?

Who needs four doors after all?

Are you still running the factory water/oil heat exchanger? If not I suggest you do as it keeps the oil temp in line with the water temp.

^ might also snap the output shaft, chew up a transfer case too if you're a rough driver my friend thought it could light up all 4s in front of my house, clutch dumped it at 7k.. wasn't pretty LOL You can treat a Skyline (minus R32 GTS-t) like a dirty hooker and it will take the abuse - you do that to a princess EVO and it will have a mental breakdown and PMS for weeks.. However EVO > Skyline in terms of performance, handling, comfort, doors, room for sex

I have a NPC 10" Carbotic Clutch Disc for sale.. all you need is to buy yourself a pressure plate and off you go. It has next to no wear, I took it out thinking my clutch was stuffed (with a new plate ready) however turned out I had issues with the fork, bearing carrier, bearing so now I'm left with this disc which has next to no wear on it. I'm after $150 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/440769-fs-syd-npc-carbotic-clutch-disc-near-new-rb25det-s2-stock-turbo-r33-rb25det-toshi-remapped-ecu-r33-stock-radiator-sway-bars/#entry7244962

a V8 is perfect for street I've driven a few V8s and absolutely love the power/flat torque.. although the noise sounds abit shit.. (minus euro V8s, they somehow sound farking tits)

Hrms roads are damp tonight, 300kW feels like 90kW because the car doesn't move when the wheels turn LOL

Passenger 75 & Cat Martin - No more Road to run (Radio Edit)

here we go, of course these settings probably won't work for your car however it will give you an idea of where to start... Please note the reason why my VE in my crank tables are lower than yours is because I've set my injector dead times pretty high.. to get these stupid rubbish garden hose injectors to idle properly. Best way around this is to start up the Adaptronic software and press 'F2' on your keyboard. Then start your car, note where the water temp is at and adjust your idle duty vs. water temp so it idles where you want it too. Just remember to set the PID all to '0' (remembering the old values) - this takes the idle off closed loop. I remembered wrong haha, however with the cranking fuel table.. do the same see where your water temp is and adjust the cranking fuel around that area till the car starts nice and easy, then fill in the values between the new point and your warm point.. just guess the values - tends to be close enough, unless you're board and you set and test per temperature range

I'm on E85 as well I have mine set at 80 ish when warm, when it's cold it's about 140% and tapers down, I'll take some screen shots when I get home (however my injector latency is set VERY high hence the VE in vacuum is inaccurate) You don't need to jab anything, you can actually set the extra throttle duty & timing it holds for on initial start PM me who tuned your car - I'm curious

I did too when I was young, 1st RWD saw a mig, 1st turbo RWD saw shims lol

getting 300kW to the ground in RWD format is easy - I'm not sure why everyone makes such a big deal out of getting it down.. first thing is to get rid of that VLSD, then run some decent shocks and NOT the stiffest spring on the market, use some pineapples and offset the subframe a little, get some camber arms and lastly some decent tyres.. avoid brands such as Wanali, Ling Long, Triangle, Rotolla, etc. and you've got a car that will bite/squat/launch.

Dyno sheet won't show you AFRs for idle or cruise Also on crank, etc. you can go over 100% - the table is in VE. I use an Adaptronic too, also you can reduce the splutter by adding in extra async into "Extra cold async" this will give the car more fuel when it's cold to reduce the hesitation. Also the cold idle issue can be fixed using the "Base Idle Value" table.. this allows a higher duty to be set vs. temperature.

If anyone wants a rolling review/discussion(s) about Five O Motorsport 1000cc and 1200cc Side Feed Injectors go here: http://nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2441472 Talks about 98RON and E85, SR20DET and RB25DET usage and both 1000cc and 1200cc formats.

^ I've driven a few EVOs.. they are great cars full stop. They come on noise faster, they go harder, they corner better, they do everything better. Heck I got a better time in a stock EVO vs. my shit box R33 at Wakefield. However at the end of the day, you can't clutch dump them in 1st at 7k rpm - that's the only downside.

UPDATED PRICE LIST $40 BRAND NEW Braided Oil Feed Line for Stock RB25DET Turbo $40 BRAND NEW OEM Rear Main Seal & Spigot Bush for RB2xDExx motors - 12279-5L310 $150 NPC 400kW Clutch Plate - Barely Used, worn 0.03mm / Will fit any RB $10 Alloy BOV Bung/Plug $10 110L/h Fuel Pump that fits in stock position $20 RB25DET S2 Factory dump pipe & down pipe $20 RB25DET/RB20DET Factory Manifold $20 RB25DET S2 Stock Blow Off Valve $10 RB25DET S2 Radiator $10 RB25DET S2 Fan Clutch $50 RB25DET S2 Stock SMIC & Pipes $20 RB25DET S2 Stock Anti Roll bar / Sway Bar (front) $10 RB25DET S2 Rubber Intake Pipe $10 RB25DET S2 handbrake boot & gear boot (1x OEM 1x Aftermarket) $10 RB25DET S2 HICAS Rack & Tie Rods $10 SR20DET S15 Radiator SOLD $150 Yellow Jacket Coil Packs for RB25DET S1.2/2, Stagea Non-Neo RB25DET (7x coils) - happily held 1.2 bar of boost SOLD 2x Falken Azensis RT615 225/35/17 with around 3mm tread SOLD $40 RB25DET S2 AFM SOLD $200 RB25DET S2 ABS Diff - minus ABS sensor SOLD $20 RB25DET S2 Stock Anti Roll bars / Sway Bars (back) SOLD $180 RB25DET S2 Turbo - no shaft play, exhaust wheel in one piece & no snapped studs

makes a world of a difference man! my car hooks up 3rd no dramas, 2nd hooks up ONLY once the tyres are warm, the roads are dry, full tank of fuel, shift into gears gently, tyres are the right PSI, sun is out, full moon, and the ambient temp isn't too cold.. other than that bakes 2nds like bakers delight LOL...

do you have a nistune license & cable? If so, do a nice long log and post it here.. I'll have a look at it and make some sense.

Time for a real diff VLSD diffs are gaids

meh, it's the street.. no need to go fast.. on the track it's a different story!

tbh, 300kW is a little too much for the street.. I reckon around 250kW is a good number - provided you have a nice diff, shocks that are not blown, some decent anti roll bars and happy days!

Looks like a $2 reject shop water pistol LOL, at least they're "matched" hahaha

And get a diff, no point having power you can't put down. The stock VLSD doesn't let you enjoy your car.

I did haha, backyard styles Also swapped to my old rail, does have that rubber hose on the return.

How's your idle and cruise AFRs with theses injectors? I've got the 1200cc ones and they're pissinge off so much I'm ready to pull them all out and convert to top feed. I find that they need about 2.0ms to drive smooth anything below it misfires and splutters like a dying horse.