Dose Pipe Sutututu

Let me ask a Skyline parts hoarder if he has anything for you

Fark... at least you had a good run in it and also used it. Stock NEO motor going in? (Don't make the mistake of opening it like I did.. Pandora's box dis dat).

Sigh, what a head fk. Anyhow, if you're ever coming to Australia, come take my car for a spin. If you like the KAAZ diff enough, $40k USD and I'll throw in a free 437kW working R33 as well 😂

Could do a R35 card MAF, post IC and short term bump up the injector base pressure to 4bar. Just need to put in an arbitrary number for the injector flow rate, and adjust the latency till it idles at stoich with the O2 feedback off. Or, PM me, I can help with sourcing parts for you. Just have a look on EFI Solution and tell me what you need 😎

Yeah the venturi/siphon inside the fuel tank lid. Either you drill it out or replace it with a radium venturi/siphon or go tits out get a FFG fuel tank lid and replace the OEM unit.

I personally haven't had any experience with OS Giken, however with my previous R33 (white shit box), I installed (actually @r32-25t installed it for me) an Exedy 3x Puk ceramic clutch and my lord it was hard to drive. Stalled it leaving the shop, eventually got the hang of it however it's nothing like the NPC I have in my current R33 shit box. The Exedy thing was super heavy (made for a R32 GT-R pre-1993) which came with boosters, where as the GTS-t didn't. Right now you can go on eBay and get a Xtreme Twin Plate Organic (solid unfortunately) for ~$1400 on 999Auto using coupon code SEPP15

Their product catalogue looks like it has changed quite a bit since the last time I've seen. They don't seem to offer the 10" carbonic, sprung centre disc anymore. For a mild street car, I personally prefer non lightened flywheels, however this is subjective. In terms of the Xtreme twin plates, their torque capacity is quite high, you'll be fine. You won't be getting anywhere near 1000nm of torque (and for those saying but my car makes 1000nm+ of torque with sub 500kW, yeah that's not engine torque, that's probably at the rolled or hub because you haven't inputted engine rpm into the torque calculation. You need to use the derived torque channel, which requires engine RPM). I personally would get the organic sprung centre twin, if you want your stock box to last.

Pool parties at yours soon! "Friends" you haven't seen in years/decades will start to appear again lol

R34 GT-t gearbox is a pull type, like the R33/34 GT-R R33 GTS/-t gearbox is still a push type Most aftermarket clutches on the market for our shit boxes are predominantly push type.

I might try out a Xtreme twin plate sprung centre organic. I've spoken to a few GT-R owners and they said it quite friendly to drive and probably a bit less bitey than what I have on my car at the moment.

It's still the same clutch from 10 years ago, and 2x motors ago. Clutch has seen 3x motors in its lifetime 😂😂😂 It's holding 437kW at the rears and gets used on the track, albeit it's starting to give up 😂 If you quick shift between gears it slips

Need some car porn please

If you run larger front brakes with the stock rear calipers, you'll torch through pads as the bias is off. A few options, one is to go larger rears such as GT-R Bangbros or simply install a brake bias valve.

No more mods, car is done, etc. So turns out my tiny AF lift pump is still moving enough fuel to pressurise my surge tank and even the fuel rail when both surge pumps are off. I'm getting about 0.55bar of fuel pressure at the rail with the surge pumps off and only the lift pump running. This means that the OEM venturi/siphon is causing a massive restriction, enough to build that pressure. I've been told it's not too much to be worried about, however the inner efficient Asian that I am says no! Pressurisation of the surge tank & running the lift pump harder does three things: degrades the surge pumps quicker more load on the electrical system as the surge works harder by product of the above, more heat is generated (possibly point 4) more heat generated means all 3x pumps swim in a warmer fuel soup and degrade faster So yeah, at some stage I will need to remove that stupid fuel tank lid/hat/cover whatever the fk you want to call it and pop off the OEM venturi/siphon and pop this one on - pretty straight forward really, just massive CBF as I will smell like shit and inhale heaps of petrol in the process.

Club Sprint should be: Street registered Factory ABS only Factory style gearboxes, no sequentials, no DCT/ZF swaps A/C working Road legal tyres Full interior No sound deadening allowed to be removed lol... No modified suspension pickup points That would make it a bit more fair.

That's good, so budget friendly (ish) tyre. Might try something like that next year (hopefully) when I hit the track again.

How do you find the Nankang CR-S tyres? If you were to rank all the tyres, where would it sit in say this list: Yokohama A050 Yokohama A052 Yokohama AD08 or AD09 Hankook Z221 Hankook Z232 aka RS-4 Nankang AR-1 Nitto NT01

These are probably the worst photos lol. Engine bay was ripping hot when I remembered to take it. I'll try get better ones soon.

SP Mufflers (they bought all the tooling and IP off SMB).

It's kind of funny the mod of the month is sound deadening lol @R3N3 😎

Time to drill out the connectors and put in bulk heads

They say copying one person is plagiarism, copying many is research and development. So if we look at most 90s shit boxes that are owned by people over the age of 30, generally they would have or in the process of sound deadening to make their cars less shit by increasing the comfort levels.

I'll take a photo of mine soon, there's enough clearance to run a Nitto head drain and the hard NEO water lines

Offer is still there, buy my KAAZ 2 way and it comes with a full working R33 attached to it. $40k USD and call it a deal 😎

The whine does sound a bit concerning, hopefully it's normal for the speedtek gears