Dose Pipe Sutututu

yepp and connect the sensor up.. if you're really tight you can connect the output to a digital volt gauge to measure ethanol content. 0V = no ethanol 1V = 20% 2V = 40% 3V = 60% 4V = 80% 5V = 100% ethanol

Yes, but remember adaptronic ECU doesn't truly do flex fuel - as it doesn't have the capability to blend maps like say a haltech as such.. it just adds/deducts timing and compensates fuel based on rpm/load. good enough if you're mainly using E85 and pop in the occasional 98 or blends

Cheap, simple works and recommended by Andy @ Adaptronic Innovate MTX-L, serial connection is a match made in heaven with the Adaptronic ECU.

no T piece... pressure (from intercooler, pre-throttle body) goes into IN, the OUT then goes into your actuator. Rip everything else out, and block that nipple on your intake pipe.

yeah what do you need done? I'm happy to wire up electrical stuff for slabs of beer OR bottles or Ciroc/Grey Goose etc..

OEM belt, looks good and isn't noisy. Money can be spent elsewhere.. there are guys making 300/400kW with an OEM belt.

Sure you can take the plug too, $50 picked up?

looks like we need 5 kits, but we get 15% off and free delivery!!! Thanks for your email. If you can get more than 5 units sold, I’ll authorise a 15% discount and offer free shipping to a single address in Australia. If you have anyone interested in other products or accessories we can extend the discount across those too. Hopefully that keeps things nice and simple. KS-4 RRP £295… Group Buy £250.75. KS-3 RRP £235… Group Buy £199.75. Please let me know if you need any further information and I’d be glad to help. Best Regards, Anthony

^ great explanation as always I was under the impression that worked like how I described, restrict pressure going to the actuator - appears I might have been incorrect. However, these EBCs still work better than your run of the mill turbogaids dual stage bleeder controllers. I might take apart my dual solenoid and see if there are internal "vents" as such, the casing isn't air tight/water tight so it could just vent into the housing and escape somehow (if it similar to a MAC valve).

does the Series 2 AFM work? I have one that was removed from my working car (gone MAP sensor). Happy with $40.

hrms... I always thought the way those solenoids worked was to restrict a pressurised source going to the waste gate thus stopping it from opening, once the desired pressure is reached, the EBC controller then sends a signal down to the solenoid to pulse so just the right amount of pressure to open the wastegate. I didn't think EBC bled air, it depends how you connected the ports, happy to stand corrected (I use a Blitz dual solenoid)

if you have an EBC.. just delete that factory boost controller setup... it's not ideal as it is set up to bleed pressure from the actuator pressure line

haha I've emailed them already.. waiting for their reply! I'll ask about the pro kit

*I'll Come on guys, I'm a dim sim Asian and my engrisher is beta

1x 4ga from the chassis to the block is more than enough.. place it somewhere near all the common grounds

^ we've, I prefer to say we have.. we've sounds rough.

KS-3 OR KS-4? KS-4 has outputs so you can setup closed loop ignition feedback on certain ECUs to retard timing on knock OR whatever your heart pleases

You guys interested in buying it together to save on shipping? I could potentially see if they're willing to do it cheaper if we get 3x and we do reviews on the unit(s) on SAU and also my personal site trak-life.com hahaha probably will never be that serious, although I've had a few SR20DET boys recently with basic bolt-ons asking for road tunes. I have another one next weekend going on E85, I've already swapped the injectors & pump and touched up his tune to accommodate the new squirters - might hire a dyno again for this one. I think the Phomula KS-3 will be more than enough for my needs (mainly 98RON), I find E85 doesn't really knock unless you really fuark up the timing.. usually you know timing is at its peak when the car makes no power when you add more timing in.. then again, I'm relying on the factory knock sensors and the aftermarket ECU to pump out some arbitrary knock value which could mean absolutely nothing as others have told me.

looks a touch sus to me... please be careful guys.

0.35bar / 5 psi is pretty much gate pressure (without the factory bleed 2-step boost controller). As jiffo mentioned, could be either blocked lines to the bleed OR the solenoid is not plugged in/faulty.

^ wow, the features are outstanding - however the price tag is quite hefty if you're just a casual tuner. Would be fabulous in a workshop environment!

I've used the K Mon before (in someone else's car) - not that user friendly.. however not the Phormula Kits.. they do look sexy! nice little unit I must say! http://www.phormula.co.uk/Player.aspx?clip=KS3-Settings&title=Settings%20-%20KS-3%20Knock%20Analyser

The exhaust wheel looks ok, more concerned about the compressor wheel

of course, better not discount that idea.. the factory sensors aren't that great do you have access to a standalone knock monitor such as a K-Mon or Phormula KS kit?

okay, make sure you turn off the ignition lock once you've checked the timing marks however, makes no sense why it should knock with the haltech factory map.. the timing values are very safe.. unless you've got 1+ lean cylinders due to faulty injectors etc.. pull out your spark plugs and see if they're all consistent