Dose Pipe Sutututu

you time the crank at 15 using the CAS. you need to sync your ignition system to the ECU.. I have a feeling your CAS is not positioned properly

first thing is first.. have you set your base timing exactly at 15 degrees using the CAS? You can lock the timing with the Haltech so there's no need to adjust the idle, disconnect the TPS, etc.. like the stock ECU.. Load up the Haltech Software Press F4 - this takes you to the Main Menu Go to BASIC --> Ignition Tab Go to Ignition Lock, and choose Enable Perform normal CAS adjustment till timing is at 15 Disable the ignition lock There's no way in hell the stock Haltech map will knock with just 0.8bar of boost.. the timing is very safe.. the only reason it would if your base timing is off OR something is going on with your AFRs

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/444057-microtch-lt16-and-haltech-platinum-sport-1000/

If they're as easy as you say - I'll be happy to invest in a set OR pledge money towards a set being developed and start up a small online shop selling these kits.

time will tell I guess, I have a set of 1200cc waiting to be installed... Of course, any ID/Bosch/XSpurt injectors are light years ahead - but sometimes you need to weigh up the requirements & cost... heck, even 740cc Nismos are enough for Adrian's needs so not sure why he would want to go full tits on top feeds.

MX6 owners, watch out.. Copex turbos are the shiz

nearly looks like this highflowed turbo

interesting compressor wheel though, however definitely not stock! Strap it on the car, tell us what it makes

I've seen 3x R33s (including mine) do the same thing.. usually happens with a faulty narrowband O2.. with a wideband sniffer on the end, the AFRs (when warm) dropped to about 11:1 and bouced all over the shop.. then when the factory O2 was unplugged it would jump to about 13 on idle. Just an observation.

I learnt reading engineering text books and through trial and error.. have been burnt by a tuner and a workshop before so I decided to learn this crap myself. Nothing hard, if you were good at physics at school - this shit is a walk in the park I'm fluent in Nistune, Adaptronic & PowerFC.. have used Haltech here and there to touch up a tune. The Upload button is for pushing tune files to your ECU, when you're playing around with your tune there's no need to press the upload button.. Just hit BURN every time you make a change, because even if you stall your car and start it again bye bye changes!

Make sure it's set on Intermediate OR Advance mode, if not the tables won't show. There's a table called 'After Start Enrich coefficient'.. take note of your water temp logged with Nistune and go to the respective cell(s) and press page up to increase fuel, there's no real formula around this except hit and miss. If you add too much fuel, the car will splutter once it adds in fuel. Also, another table you need to increase is 'Crank Enrich', I find when installing new injectors it's best to adjust this table first till the car starts on it's own and splutters.. then adjust the 'After Start Enrich' table till she's all good. I find the standard curve is good enough.. just highlight all the cells across the temperature axle and use Page Up to increase the value... Notes: Save your original tune file Once you've made changes, hit the burn button straight away

^ not enough post crank fuel.. that's not really an injector issue

yeah, but not backyard style flap disc sander and drill press style... the five 0 ones are a little more advanced than that.. the heads have been refitted and there's a different type of pintle cap that promotes some form of usable spray pattern rather than a garden hose into the motor. I've recently fitted and road tuned a S15 with 1000cc Five O injectors, idles, starts (cold/hot) runs like factory.. just 1x small nuisance, it won't idle on stoich.. best I got was 14.2 but once on E85 happy days.. I'm getting a set of 1200cc delivered today, I'll tell you how it goes

So much effort, so much typing.. 1000cc Five O remanufactured new JECS Side Feed injectors work and they're cost effective when compared to all the rail mods, external fuel regs, connectors and all sorts of other stuff. They work well, car idles well, car starts well, all sorts of well, stoich on cruise & idle. They are swap & GO, and not to mention if you're running E85 or blends of sort you require more fuel on idle than 98RON so you'll be in the linear zone of the injector anyhow. You're complicating shit once again Adrian

UPDATED PRICE LIST $150 NPC 400kW Clutch Plate - Barely Used, worn 0.03mm / Will fit any RB $180 Yellow Jacket Coil Packs for RB25DET S1.2/2, Stagea Non-Neo RB25DET (7x coils) - happily held 1.2 bar of boost $10 Alloy BOV Bung/Plug $10 110L/h Fuel Pump that fits in stock position SOLD 2x Falken Azensis RT615 225/35/17 with around 3mm tread $40 BRAND NEW Braided Oil Feed Line for Stock RB25DET Turbo $40 BRAND NEW OEM Rear Main Seal & Spigot Bush for RB2xDExx motors - 12279-5L310 $200 RB25DET S2 Turbo - no shaft play, exhaust wheel in one piece $20 RB25DET S2 Factory dump pipe & down pipe $20 RB25DET/RB20DET Factory Manifold $40 RB25DET S2 AFM $20 RB25DET S2 Stock Blow Off Valve $10 RB25DET S2 Radiator $10 RB25DET S2 Fan Clutch $50 RB25DET S2 Stock SMIC & Pipes SOLD $200 RB25DET S2 ABS Diff - minus ABS sensor $20 RB25DET S2 Stock Anti Roll bars / Sway Bars (front & back) $20 RB25DET S2 Rubber Intake Pipe $10 RB25DET S2 handbrake boot & gear boot (1x OEM 1x Aftermarket) $10 RB25DET S2 HICAS Rack & Tie Rods $10 SR20DET S15 Radiator

If not try disconnect the factory o2 and see if it stops

Go through the RB25 dyno thread bro, shit loads of information there.

why not just save the cash and do a proper twin scroll setup? that would be a smarter solution

Awesome cheap there, Ryco filters are all under 10$ Fuark paying $20+ for them

Mad grass cutting lol

Mekong Spares in Canley Vale, NSW 2166 however, this was about 4 years ago - haven't needed to machine my current rotors

really? always paid that price and $50 to machine fly wheels

$100 delivered? Is it black and comes with everything?

Does the car ever hit the track? If no, - Machine rotors $7 per side - Use good pads - Flush brake fluid Spend the rest of your money on beer & strippers. Slotted rotors are gaids.. they crack and wear your pads.. If you want mad brakes, upgrade to evo brembos with STOCK unslotted Evo X rotors.. happy days.

BUMP $180