Dose Pipe Sutututu

I usually keep it stoich anything in vacuum up to atmospheric pressure (0.0psi), on cruise I'm a little cheeky and let it sit at 15.2 Best I've gotten out of 50L was 540km with the occasional squirt when I drove to Foster and back on 98 with the AC on most parts

Exactly what happens, I love tits.

isn't it just common sense? bigger injectors on a factory ECU programmed to control factory sized injectors.. a simple analogy could be a garden hose water gun Mist Setting (factory injectors) - press trigger half way, just the right amount of water for plants Retard Jet Setting (larger injectors) - press trigger half way, water sprays everywhere hits neighbour and her shirt is now see through.

^ hey mate, I disconnected my narrowband in the engine bay and spliced the narrowband output from the innovate straight into the ECU harness. There's no need to hook up the sensor ground and it worked really well. Not the first car I've done it to also, one thing I've noticed is that it "appears" to hit stoichiometric much quicker than factory narrowband O2s Give it a crack you can't go wrong, in saying that I'm now running full closed loop fuel control with my wideband (running stand alone now woots)

Ricky's awesome man, replaces parts & lets me pull things off cars myself... He's pretty busy these days, however hopefully once the shop is up he will attend to everyone

or strippers

are you in sydney? I can help OR just drop it off at a tuning shop

but you'll need the PLMS cable & license.. the free one is stupid, it times out and after a few connects makes you register.

$200 NPC 400kW Clutch Plate - Barely Used, worn 0.03mm / Will fit any RB $200 Yellow Jacket Coil Packs for RB25DET S1.2/2, Stagea Non-Neo RB25DET (7x coils) - happily held 1.2 bar of boost $10 Alloy BOV Bung/Plug $10 110L/h Fuel Pump that fits in stock position SOLD $40 2x Falken Azensis RT615 225/35/17 with around 3mm tread $50 BRAND NEW Braided Oil Feed Line for Stock RB25DET Turbo $40 BRAND NEW OEM Rear Main Seal & Spigot Bush for RB2xDExx motors - 12279-5L310 $200 RB25DET S2 Turbo - no shaft play, exhaust wheel in one piece $20 RB25DET S2 Factory dump pipe & down pipe $20 RB25DET/RB20DET Factory Manifold $50 RB25DET S2 AFM $20 RB25DET S2 Stock Blow Off Valve $20 RB25DET S2 Radiator $10 RB25DET S2 Fan Clutch $50 RB25DET S2 Stock SMIC & Pipes SOLD $200 RB25DET S2 ABS Diff - minus ABS sensor $30 RB25DET S2 Stock Anti Roll bars / Sway Bars $20 RB25DET S2 Rubber Intake Pipe $10 RB25DET S2 handbrake boot & gear boot (1x OEM 1x Aftermarket) $10 RB25DET S2 HICAS Rack & Tie Rods $20 SR20DET S15 Radiator

you have no choice, they control your car you don't control it

You will need a factory cat too, I find with Nistune the closed loop is very lazy. I usually disable it completely and run it in open loop.. Easiest way to pass an emissions test, stock cat & E85

don't use the AF Ratio to do your tuning.. you need to trace, adjust trace adjust trace adjust.. Also your timing map is a little funny, timing should increase as RPM increases NOT decrease, and at max torque/max VE your timing should be lower than other parts.

Eh? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?/topic/442058-[syd]-R33-Gts-T-Series-2-Silver-289Rwkw-Unigroup-Tuned

Well Nulon says a 50/50 mix of their concentrate brings the boiling point up to 132 degrees.. however I try to keep it below that incase the head lifts or I blow a head gaskets and/or hoses. However, the extreme heating could have been from a faulty fan clutch, which I have replaced

I find that usually there's a 10~15 degree difference in water temp vs. oil temp when you're going full retard on the track they're always same same for me, however I still run the factory water/oil heat exchanger which might keep the two very close.

I usually back off once my water temp hits 120 and/or oil temp hits 140 (which I've never seen).. I've got alarms for both of the temperature sensors so when it beeps I back off. I've recently changed my water thermostat to a 67 degree Tridon item, car now runs at around 72~74 - this means I will now have about a 50 degree window before water is getting too hot. In the past I had a R34 thermostat (spares shop gave me the wrong one) car would operate around 90 degrees (which is quite normal for modern cars) however that meant I only had a 30 degree range before things got too hot Oil wise, I'm running a massive Mocal core and a 80 degree thermostat - highest I've ever seen with the oil is 130. That's my input (I might be completely wrong too - however car hasn't exploded yet haha)

thus increasing cylinder pressure but if the muffler is 100% straight through, i.e. no weird step downs or weird bends inside then don't worry too much

try this: Reset PowerFC Set scaling in ball park Select correct AFMs Turn off O2 feedback Start/Rev car up to around 3000 rpm & hold (when warm) Adjust scaling till car hits stoich (roughly) let it idle, then adjust lag time till idle is stoich (roughly) tidy up map Enable O2 feedback Take to tuner

You've got bigger injectors however have you scaled your injectors on the ECU? I didn't see any mention of that.

KU36 are good but will harden up and turn into a bucket of shit within a year and/or a few heat cycles. Yes they're not a semi slick, for me anything with a tread wear above 100 is just an UHP tyre

I have 1x as well - however 1x of the turbo studs have snapped when I tried to remove it great as a paper weight In other news, anyone seen this ling long manifolds in steam pipe? - doesn't look too bad for someone that wants an upgrade http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TOG-Steam-Pipe-NISSAN-SKYLINE-R32-R33-R34-RB20-RB25-LOW-MOUNT-EXHAUST-MANIFOLD-/181343084383?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a38e3df5f&_uhb=1

it's pillar-less coupe, bend back glass easy.

unfortunately the R34 has the battery on the driver's side instead of the passenger side, so that means you will need to run your power cable along with the rear harness (which isn't ideal). Run from the battery, into the quarter panel along the harness over the wheel arch then into the cabin through that thick grommet... Follow that through and line up against the harness running to the rear, cable tying along the way so it's all neat. Mount amp either on that hump OR on the back seat Fuse as close as possible to the battery Earth to anywhere in the boot with a decent sized bolt easy

Looking good man, wish I had the time to spend on my car like you. Took me 5 weeks to install a turbo lol

stock one looks awesome.. here's my engine bay