Dose Pipe Sutututu

Because it's more nimble and feels like a go-kart where as our cars feel like massive boats.. for example, a 200kW S15 vs a 200kW R33 and mod for mod suspension wise.. the S15 will be doing quicker times around Wakefield park. HOWEVER we own R chassis for purely this reason:

it's not, you'll need to buy extra hoses and shit to get it to fit and if you're running the stock airbox, forget it.. look at the angles, it won't fit

strong first post, wonder if you're a dealer

I don't think any import has genuine KMs.. they all get haircuts HERE IN AUSTRALIA, not Japan however dealers say "I derno it was done in Japan" - dickheads. I love how people straight away blame Japan for doing it, why would these honest people do it? Looking back at the tsunami, ATMs were smashed open, cash was flying around.. no one even looted then. I'm sure my current R33 has about 300 000kms, the dash shows half of that.

by the way, those dim sim intakes are a pain in the arse to fit... I would recommend getting one from #@scotty nm35 instead

controls with ground, the power is constantly on

How VCT works.. at idle it's off, when throttle is pressed and RPM between 1100 & 4500rpm it's on.. when it goes past 4500rpm it turns off again so if it's unplugged it's doing jack shit.. it's constantly off

Just as a FYI the voltage should fluctuate, even at idle. And also I suggest you trim off timing on the standard base map before you decide to ramp the boost up as the stock map is super crazy aggressive, however it's pretty rich, better yet bring it to a tuner.

send that pic to Garage 88, they have that but for EVOs.. I can't imagine it being that hard to order thme for R33s

Mike I've seen this stuff: http://www.aclperformance.com.au/prod_heatshield.htm at Motorsport Connection & Autobahn (suprising eh?)

BUMP this shiz

BUMP this shiz

would it not be cheaper & easier to just buy an entire kit? http://gtmotorsports.com/product.php?productid=17255&cat=258&page=9 they even cater for RHS drive vehicles, cast manifolds too.. no cracking!

^ base fuel pressure is 3bar, at 3 bar & 13.8V these Walbro E85 pumps like to have ~15amps of current even with your dual reg business, let's say now the rail pressure is at 1.5 bar (I doubt injectors would like it, but for argument sake), Mr Walbro e85 would still want 14 amps of current...

interesting, I'm dropping the voltage by 16% I'll plug up an ammeter and see how much it's actually drawing

THE FPCM can handle it, however not with massive walbro 460L pumps, this is where you need to be smart and use the output of the FPCM to trigger an external relay and run your own dropping resistor. I've used the stock resistor, however it's not capable of dissipating enough energy. I've ordered a new 0.3 ohm 50 watt resistor to replace the one in my circuit: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/430312-r33-fuel-pump-wiring-better-feed-retaining-fpcm/page-2#entry7163251

Well think of it this way, at full song (at idle) that walbro 460L fuel pump is essentially a ~210watt fuel tank heater, when the voltage is dropped to 10V (guessing current draw would be ~12amps) you'll essentially only have a 120watt fuel tank heater All my wiring, relays, fuse holder & resistor has set me back no more $40 And it works like the factory system, switching from 10V to 13.8V So I don't know what you're going on about "I can't think of any other cheap simple way of solving the wiring and fuel flow/heat problems" I just solved it for you

Rewired my fuel pump, retained the FPCM however used my own relays and a separate resistor pack. The entire factory wiring is left untouched so if my setup fails, I will have a backup to drive home etc. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/430312-r33-fuel-pump-wiring-better-feed-retaining-fpcm/page-2#entry7163251

lol.. GT-R seats aren't any roomier than the GTS-t seat.. tough titties

Alright, so the stock resistor gets stupid hot because of the current draw in my setup.. I've worked out I want the pump to drop to 12V, which means I would need to drop the voltage by 3.8V At 3 bar pressure, the pump requires 13.52 amps of current Using R = V/I to work out the resistor I would need, R = 3.8 / 13.52 = 0.28 ohms Using P = VI to work out the wattage I need to dissipate, P = 3.8 * 13.52 = 51.4 watts So ideally the resistor would be close, the closest I found was 0.3 ohm resistor that dissipates 50 watts.. comes in a funky heat sink too! If you guys are using large pumps with the factory resistor pack, I suggest you ground off your pumps now before you set your car on fire!

Shit got real, all working as planned. Just one small hiccup, had to cut the output wire from the fpcm as it was bridged to the ground which kept firing off the 2nd relay. All sorted, just need a bracket to tidy things up. One thing I noticed, the resistor pack gets so damn hot due to the current draw. I might make my own or use one from a fan blower controller.

Hi Guys, Selling some fully sick hectic low springs brah lol... A little too low for my liking, so I've changed to different springs. Will fit right up to (uses the same part number I believe): - R32 GTS-t - R33 GTS-t - R34 GT-t Not sure about other cars. Location: Canley Vale, NSW. 2165 Contacts: PM or Reply Here Price: $40

SOOLLDD BISHES

BUMP get it retrimmed and you'll have a nice RECARO seat for cheap!

Also if it starts easier with a little throttle applied, I would have a look at the AAC or IACV and give them a test/clean.. there should be some high idle dwell on start up. I'm not too familiar with your ECU but other ECUs there's an idle dwell which you can adjust which applies a little throttle on startup and dwells a little before dropping to your predefined idle setting.