Dose Pipe Sutututu

what? just highlight the cells you want and press 'O' then drop the value to whatever you want.. it's dead beat simple... I've used Microtech before, it's so damn confusing. 1x table for RPM vs. Timing, then 1x table for Timing trim vs. Load... no sure why they just didn't want to use a 3D map like other people.

spotted a gun metal R32 GT-R Saturday morning going towards Canley Vale on Railway Pde (sounded sex) spotted #@Piggaz in his R33 GT-R on Woodville Road, sounded a little grumpy brap brap brap lol

Just sold them this morning. Sorry mate.

SOLD below cost hard

Toshi is regarded as a conservative tuner, the remaps he makes are really safe and so with his other tunes I've seen.. I plugged up a PLMS cable and tracked the Ignition timing and you can tell he doesn't tune for numbers rather for longevity and driveability. He's pretty good, gave me a few pointers too with my tune on a mate's S15 (something professional tuners WILL NEVER DO, but he did top bloke )

you'll have some minor temperature enrichment as it will interpolate between 50 ~ 80 degrees So say if your thermostat always reads 65 then on partial load your correction would be about 1.03 - ((80 - 50)/100 * 0.03) = 1.009 and on high load, i.e pedal down around 1.025 which isn't all that much, but you're burning extra fuel you don't need to lol

$130 EACH OR $250 FOR BOTH

I can't recall if you can see the temperature enrichment tables using the hand controller, if so see what the settings are like it would be something like 50 = 1.15 60 = 1.10 70 = 1.05 80 = 1 90 = 1 100 = 1.10 110 = 1.20 etc... Column A = Temperature Column B = Enrichment Applied

Check your temp correction tables in your PowerFC, see when the enrichment is cut out. Really depends how it is set, if it's set to cut out over 70 then you'll always be running with addition injection correction. I still prefer factory spec thermostats, you would want your water temps about 80~90 as it will warm up your oil too (that's my opinion).

hahaha John finally left as well!

Does OMG days ring any bells? a few of their sites had the same issue dark background and dark text.. hahaha

bitches love air con

dark theme at times doesn't display text properly, it's dark grey on black on some threads hence I never use it

FUND MY MODS

SUPER BUMP

Sold: Subframe Lock Collars - Blue in Colour, full set (8 pieces) $40 Factory Catalytic Converter $50 Subframe Lock Collars - Blue in Colour, full set (8 pieces) $40 Factory O2 sensor $10 Binned: Factory Steering Rack Ends/Tie Rods $10 Factory Steering Tie Rod Ends $10 Available: Factory SMIC $50 Factory SMIC piping $50 Factory Cross over pipe & BOV $50 Factory Down pipe $20 Factory Dump pipe $20 Factory Mint Handbrake OEM boot $10 Factory HICAS unit $10 Factory Passenger side kick panel, 1x flare clip broken $5 Factory R33 GTS-t Manual Radiator, working removed for upgrade $40 Factory Stock R33 Rims x4 (tyres might not pass an inspection) $80 Bendix DB1170 Front Brake Pads (Near New) - "Guaranteed Race Car Like Squeal" $20 Blitz 60mm Gauge Holder $5 Fully Sick Gearboot & Handbrake Boot in black leather with purple Stitching $10

SOLD!!!!!!!!!!

or when you are taking a hot bird in the car and her titties are covered in sweat?

anyone that can build a motor can build a N/A motor provided you know what specs i.e. CR, cam duration, lift, porting, etc.. Tuning should be easy enough, after all it's N/A, takes more effort to blow up motors.. just pop on a quality oil pump too. I don't think tuning is the hard part, it's getting the right combination to make the motor fun to drive. However I suggest up the compression as much as possible a 8.5:1 motor will be a croc of shit to drive. I aspire to be a stoke broker one day, but that's never happening because I'm stuck in IT forever (too scared to take the plunge and start from the bottom of the food chain again - hate having no money)

$140 EACH!!!!!!!!!!!!

DO IT skimmed the head because the 8.5:1 compression will suck donkey cock, bring it to like 9.5:1 or even more if the pistons don't foul the valves. then mod the intake plenum and install 6 flutes, bring the rev limiter up to 10k (I'm sure it will spin easily to that safely as it's now making 1/2 the power) then whack on some retarded long duration cams... brap brap brap brap hahah

Toshi Remap, $350 tuned for AU 98 RON fuel, removed TP cut, removed 180km/h speed limiter. Boost comes on earlier, car goes harder, run 12/13psi all day no dramas.

What for? if you want less headache, plug & play and moderate power just stick to the stock plenum. Useless upgrade if you're not a dyno queen.

who told you that? it's fine on the stock ECU might just be sluggish