Dose Pipe Sutututu

Please send me the log 🙂 I'll go through it during work hours. Also your richer than stoich idle target is probably due to your injectors inability to work at such low pulse widths. I'm going to assume they're not modern stainless injectors?

It definitely can, it just comes up as a speed sensor.

Look at your O2 correction long term and short term trim tables to see if there are any weird values in there. Then look at your real time trimming at idle, could be a dodgy wideband O2 sensor sending back wrong valves causing your ECU to think it's running too rich and pulling out fuel.

For Brett's car the traction strategy would be for straight line attacks, so the Haltech GPS sensor would be sufficient for traction control in his application.

You're better off doing a GPS speed sensor vs. the wheel speed as your car would bake all 4x wheels, if the surface isn't optimum. Having front and rear speed sensors and doing a traction strategy on that only works on FWD or RWD cars.

Nissan Space Shuttle Program

Done, whenever you're ready. Probably will sit in my shelf until I buy a M3 lol.

I'll buyyour I/O, time to wire up my brake input for cruise control.

Then skids?

Make sure you go Haltech R3 from the get go, convert to DBW, setup cruise control, etc.

Get an AWD RB25DET NEO ready to slot in, solid lifters and VCT dis dat.

oh noesssss Just put your spare Nissan badges onto the XR6 Turbo

@Murray_Calavera sexual, less faffing about with those stupid twin filters. Makes servicing so much easily. I haven't bothered to service mine because it's a pain in the arse to undo lol

Mark at MRC Performance & Dyno in NSW does this quite often, then uses both return/feed OEM lines as dual feed lines to the fuel rail. The only drawback from this is the length of the vacuum hose from plenum to regulator at the back of the car, also increases the chances of that line failing from debris, unless you go tits out and make it all a hard line. @Murray_Calavera I run a 40 micron filter, followed by a 10 micron filter, seems to be the norm? I just copied whatever most of the big shops do LOL. Another sex spec option, something I may do in future if I still haven't gotten rid of the shit box is to run this: http://injectordynamics.com/id-f750-fuel-filter/ has a gauge to show you the health of your filter too, no guessing around pulling things out to try clean/resolve.

Not a like for like comparison with @djvoodoo, but here's my GTX3576R Gen 2 with T3 1.01 divided rear on a RB25 NEO, rev limiter set at 8600rpm. Housing is a bit large, but actually worked out well in the end as I wanted a wide powerband and flat-ish torque for the circuit. The only thing I would have liked was to fit smaller duration cams. At the time I ordered cams, Kelford said it would be a 2 month wait for the 264/264° cams so I ended up with 264/272°.

Very common theme with people building older cars, no defined requirements and goals down pat from the start. You need to define what the car's intent will be, what you require in terms of power delivery, etc. E.g. you want a responsive street/circuit car, with a wide powerband for the circuit but also want it all in at 4k rpm so you can take corners in 3rd gear. Once that's all defined, at that point is where you go and look at your car's constraints and limitations. What can you do to work around them, e.g. you don't have VCam or VCT, then you might look into advancing the intake cam, etc. to bring it on earlier and knowing you're happy to sacrifice top end because you don't need to ring it's neck out at the track. Often you see people just chasing a kW number and not thinking about anything else at the start of the build to be awfully disappointed at the end result.

You can plumb back the external gate, also you'll find most that race on the circuit primarily plumb back their gates to comply with noise regulations and also reduce distractions whilst racing. Not all of us here on this forum are drag racers/street racers/roll racers so your generalisations are just that, a generalisation.

Yes, if not you'll have a hard time trying to remove the balancer. Not saying it's impossible but you'll be swearing less, and not damaging your radiator in the process. Also probably good time to inspect the radiator and replace if required.

Oh man, you had your chance and wasted it 😂

Just put in a Nismo dash with 30k kms on it, someone will go wow.. such low kms 😂

It's like have a hot missus you don't oots oots once in a while. What's the point? I'm sure Brett will give it a oots oots lol.

Nice! If that's the case, just install that sensor on plenum outlet. You're sampling water that is being expelled out from the motor, you would assume it's the best location.

Personally I would use your ECU to control the fan, the OEM water temp sensor on the outlet from the plenum would be the best spot to sample water temperature. If you use a SSR or an OEM fan controller (from another car)you could even duty cycle your fan so it gently ramps in as water temperature increases and say goes from 30% duty at 75°C and to 100% by 85°C as an example. Far more sophisticated and superior than an on/off thermo switch. Makes everything a bit more premium.

Plot twist, @PranK implemented ChatGPT bots to bring a bit more life into the forums.

I use these things https://www.schrothracing.com/item/bolt-in-end-fitting-kits/hardware-Harnesses