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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu
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Indoor car cover
Dose Pipe Sutututu replied to tridentt150v's topic in General Automotive Discussion
I use this one, was sub $100 when Autobarn had some online sale. https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Shop-our-Full-Ranges-by-Brand-|-Autobarn/Streetwize/STREETWIZE-SHOW-CAR-COVER---UP-TO-5M/p/PR20531 -
PonieBoi R32 Sedan Build
Dose Pipe Sutututu replied to PonieBoi's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
Cranking table will need a tickle, also I find with larger injectors they do strange things once they heat soak. -
You should open up a drive in and drive out service. (In Sydney, Australia lol). I would drop off the shit box for this service.
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Harmonic balancer bolt tighten technique?
Dose Pipe Sutututu replied to GD51LA's topic in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ
Could wait till it's in the car, gearbox mounted up and then pop it into a higher gear, handbrake up and torque away. -
I just think these shit box motors naturally make heaps of heat and Nissan slapped on the water/oil heat exchanger to keep the oil temps happy. I would assume without any evidence the water/oil heat exchanger is quite efficient at removing excess heat from the oiling system. This is why a mild RB shit box with a decent radiator and OEM fan/shroud is able to keep water and oil temperatures quite stable for street/drag/roll racing usage. It's only when the water cooling system is overwhelmed is when shit hits the fan super quick. I believe @GTSBoy has a better explanation than my broscience lol.
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It's more so to remove any risk of the heat exchange failing and turning your oil into a frappuccino. Most engine builders will delete it for that reason as well as simplification of hoses etc. Same reason I launched mine too.
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@soviet_merlin looks like someone has removed it. Probably easier to just get a proper oil cooler setup installed with an oil thermostat. Then send its mum.
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I think this is a generic photo of the kit, but you get the idea. The oil cooler in these kits are placed between the IC and AC condenser.
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Another way to do it, is to use the Greedy relocation blocks, then make up your own lines and mount your oil cooler where you want it. Alternatively just buy their kit, although it comes with a small-ish oil cooler, which would be plenty for your usage anyhow.
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Lol... Well running their "premium" Mishimoto radiators wouldn't be helping. Surely Nissan got it wrong by installing them on RB25s and RB26s. Also those water/oil heat exchangers aren't just for heating the oil. What happens when oil exceeds water temp? What do you think that water/oil heat exchanger is responsible for?
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If you're never hitting the circuit and only using if hard for like 10s at a time you should be fine without an oil cooler. But definitely keep the water/oil heat exchanger installed, don't delete that and spend decent money on your radiator and you'll be fine. Avoid eBay looking fans with fancy marketing, they're shit. Get Spal or Flex-a-Lite if you're thinking of binning the stock fan/shroud (preferably keep them).
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Also why not G35-900? Get a good thermostat, and don't skimp on the cooler. Get either Setrab or Earls or Mocal or PWR etc. Avoid the eBay looking one with great marketing and big branding. You know which one.
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Mechanic says compression tests are outdated?
Dose Pipe Sutututu replied to silviaz's topic in General Automotive Discussion
weekly trips to Eurowerke in Castle Hill LOL -
Mechanic says compression tests are outdated?
Dose Pipe Sutututu replied to silviaz's topic in General Automotive Discussion
hopefully the bin shits out $60k in cash or directly deposits that money into my bank account - if so, done deal. -
Mechanic says compression tests are outdated?
Dose Pipe Sutututu replied to silviaz's topic in General Automotive Discussion
throw it all in the bin and convert to DBW. -
Mechanic says compression tests are outdated?
Dose Pipe Sutututu replied to silviaz's topic in General Automotive Discussion
Correct, on modern cars you can just use scanners such as Launch X421 or an Autel. For our older shit boxes, compression tests are an ok way to determine even compression between cylinders, however motor with massive duration cams will read lower compression than say a motor with stock cams. Better to do a leak down test if you want to check engine health. -
Another wild idea is to fit up a manual S15 turbo or late model unicorn manual R34 GT-t helical/torsen diff. You'll need to pick @GTSBoy's brain on this one, because if you go down the S15 route you'll need to swap over the crown & pinon to a short ratio as the S15 diff is a 3.69 making it quite tall (unless you decide to also convert to a 6 speed 350/370Z box then leave it as is). R34 GT-t route is pretty much bolt up and send it, however finding a 2001/2002 R34 GT-t rear helical diff is near impossible.
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Same, I will drive other people's cars around the track well within my limits. When it comes to my own, it's driven harder than a hired car from Hertz lol.