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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu
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Lol... Well running their "premium" Mishimoto radiators wouldn't be helping. Surely Nissan got it wrong by installing them on RB25s and RB26s. Also those water/oil heat exchangers aren't just for heating the oil. What happens when oil exceeds water temp? What do you think that water/oil heat exchanger is responsible for?
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If you're never hitting the circuit and only using if hard for like 10s at a time you should be fine without an oil cooler. But definitely keep the water/oil heat exchanger installed, don't delete that and spend decent money on your radiator and you'll be fine. Avoid eBay looking fans with fancy marketing, they're shit. Get Spal or Flex-a-Lite if you're thinking of binning the stock fan/shroud (preferably keep them).
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Also why not G35-900? Get a good thermostat, and don't skimp on the cooler. Get either Setrab or Earls or Mocal or PWR etc. Avoid the eBay looking one with great marketing and big branding. You know which one.
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Mechanic says compression tests are outdated?
Dose Pipe Sutututu replied to silviaz's topic in General Automotive Discussion
weekly trips to Eurowerke in Castle Hill LOL -
Mechanic says compression tests are outdated?
Dose Pipe Sutututu replied to silviaz's topic in General Automotive Discussion
hopefully the bin shits out $60k in cash or directly deposits that money into my bank account - if so, done deal. -
Mechanic says compression tests are outdated?
Dose Pipe Sutututu replied to silviaz's topic in General Automotive Discussion
throw it all in the bin and convert to DBW. -
Mechanic says compression tests are outdated?
Dose Pipe Sutututu replied to silviaz's topic in General Automotive Discussion
Correct, on modern cars you can just use scanners such as Launch X421 or an Autel. For our older shit boxes, compression tests are an ok way to determine even compression between cylinders, however motor with massive duration cams will read lower compression than say a motor with stock cams. Better to do a leak down test if you want to check engine health. -
Another wild idea is to fit up a manual S15 turbo or late model unicorn manual R34 GT-t helical/torsen diff. You'll need to pick @GTSBoy's brain on this one, because if you go down the S15 route you'll need to swap over the crown & pinon to a short ratio as the S15 diff is a 3.69 making it quite tall (unless you decide to also convert to a 6 speed 350/370Z box then leave it as is). R34 GT-t route is pretty much bolt up and send it, however finding a 2001/2002 R34 GT-t rear helical diff is near impossible.
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Same, I will drive other people's cars around the track well within my limits. When it comes to my own, it's driven harder than a hired car from Hertz lol.
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A bit off topic, whatever you do don't choose the KAAZ pill... I did... Lol. It's very aggressive, I even had a diff shop make it less aggressive, I assume they either played around the plates or removed a few. Either way, it still drives very aggressively compared to my mates with Nismo diffs in their S13s, S15s.
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Lol... Yep, that's me 😂 2x blown motors later, countless snapped anti roll bar brackets (when running super stiff ARBs were cool, I no longer follow that methodology), warped rotors etc.
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This does come up in conversation with my mates however we only have 1x car so if I take it to tow the shit box my wife and son are stranded at home. Also as per @ActionDan's point the trailers for hire are hit and miss. Some are great and some days they're just awful and you're left scratching your head how it's even road worthy (these are the ones you see at BP).
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That is a bit of a funny once, generally with misfires you will read lean as the oxygen in part of the mixture has not combusted. The only plausible scenario I can think of is both fuel and ignition trims at play trying to keep the motor idling with the poor spark before. Potentially it may have been tuned to compensate for slight misfire at idle and now that the combustion is sex spec the idle closed loop strategy is pegged to add in more fuel but it's maxed out.
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Go RS-4 out of your list, I went from always running semi slicks (Nitto NT01, Nankang AR-1) to a set of Hankook RS-4 to make the car more streetable with the odd track day here and there (circuit). They hook up very well from cold and handle "ok" in the rain, I even took the car last Tuesday to the track in the rain. Yeah was hilarious trying to put power down or take turns at 80~100km/h and trying to chase down the Euros guys with superior track slaying machines from factory.
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RB25DET NEO AWD into ECR33
Dose Pipe Sutututu replied to Blakeo's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Here we go, some really old photos. -
RB25DET NEO AWD into ECR33
Dose Pipe Sutututu replied to Blakeo's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Yes, I did the same thing before. You'll need a new pick up, new sump. The brackets cannot be used. At the time I ended up an ASR kit, made for a RB26 to RWD conversion sump. Food for thought, because the oil pick up is moved forward you'll in theory be pulling oil from a higher oil level when your rear end squats and/or your front end is elevated during heavy acceleration. I cannot confirm if this is the root cause of my previously built motor lunching itself however it was due to oil starvation (which could have been from various things). -
asif they would want to pay for that, they're too stubborn I bet. No business owner likes being told what to do, it's hard enough in the corporate world teaching an old dog new tricks. I deal with boomers all day in the industry I work in and trying to get them to adopt tech is as hard as teaching your dog to not piss on your couch during their final years.