Dose Pipe Sutututu

I believe there was talks of billet CVs by Driveshaft Shop too lol.

lucky you got home without breaking more things!

Jesus, someone forgot to use loctite and torque down the bolts properly? (I'm assuming the diff shop did it)

Nitto brought out a wide journal bearing crank (apparently you just use 2JZ bearings) to "fix" the issue. You get a RB26 crank, get it to come on super earning with V-Cam or VCT, modern turbo, ram in heaps of boost/timing and it will thrash bearings and bin a motor. Even Jim from CRD back in the early days said he always ran soft timing in the mid range to stop bearings chewing themselves up.

MCA vs. Broscience Dose. We now have 13kg/mm on the driver side, will do the passenger side soon. Also decided to raise it a tiny bit, might raise it a bit more after a quick lap around the block when I finish the passenger side.

@Kinkstaah I'm by all means no Max Verstappen or Checo Perez, I'm just an Asian that drives better than most Asians 😂 T1 I'm ok at SMSP, it's T2 and T8 I'm feeling the effects of the pitch and have actually bounced off the bump stops (smashing the brakes doesn't help either lol). @Piggaz I've actually shifted my entire subframe closer to the body, the LCAs now point downwards (closer to OEM geometry) and the entire HICAS junk, including the ball joints have been all deleted. I used to run total 4mm toe in to combat the toe out on squat, however now I don't need to, so it only has 2mm toe in. @Duncan I've extended the traction rods by 15mm, which has reduced the car kicking out when power is put down around a turn. Somewhat I don't have an issue with traction or the car kicking out sideways like 95% of the RWD Nissans you see. It just hooks and takes off, even with street tyres and 437kW at the back. The main "issue", if you even want to call it an issue, is the pitching due to the weight shift. At Wakefield it didn't seem to be much of a problem, but at SMSP you really notice it as you're going into turns at greater speeds @ActionDan been waiting for more development on your car! Yeah I've been following that Track Racer Australia group, good learnings from them too.

Yeah, Whiteline are great at marketing things you don't need. I fell for the whole get the front and rear anti roll bar package bullshit (incorrectly called sway bars) theory, just made the car twitchy as shit! Especially when you're going hard into a corner and there's not enough spring rate and you bounce off the bump stops then you're off the track!

Sure thing! So throwing around ideas with MCA's tech support and @34GeeTeeTee and we all agreed that I needed to bump up the spring rate at the front of the car, especially with it now predominantly being used at SMSP. Handling wise, it is somewhat quite neutral and does what I command, however on hard braking it does tend to pitch forward quite a bit and cause the rear end to unsettle. Not what you want on a fast track like SMSP. So yeah, going from 10kg/mm now to 13kg/mm. Will then set the front anti roll bar onto the softest setting (should have just kept the stock one to be honest. Whiteline and their marketing team are great at what they do, market things.) (My personal opinion) it's better to adjust body roll with spring rate & dampers and only use anti roll bars to fine tune how the car rotates. They shouldn't be the primary device to improve handling. Anyhow, turns out Matt had a set of 13kg/mm he didn't need so I took them off his hands (thanks brah). They have been sitting at the same spot for the past 2 weeks lol. I have another track night booked 11th of July, better get off my arse lol.

Run very soft timing in the mid range to reduce bearings getting thrashed. Once you make peak torque, then ram it in like you're pounding a ....

I would rip that return pipe off, and cap it nicely. And then wrap it up, send it to @Duncan

It's so good, best thing I did. Superb idle control, superb AC idle control & operation, superb throttle curve control. I still find it funny people that spend big bucks on builds to only use a cable throttle.

Yeah that thing, it belongs in the bin.

I'm going to take a guess the AAC valve is stuck open. This is the one under the plenum, pain in the arse to get to. Imagine Nissan used a stepper motor like their JZ cousin or their distant friend, 4G63. Nope, they decided to use twin leak valves to control idle.

OR go full out: RB30DET Samsonas BBK Mechanical LSD Full re-wire, traction setup, the works Or just buy a fast modern RWD turbo like a M2 Comp.

And shit beer, shit beef, shit people lol.

Install your stock BOV, recirculate it. The varying timing is your ECU's idle control strategy, trying to maintain the correct idle by adjusting the timing & the idle control valve. If you like whooshy whoosh noises, best to install an ECU that can do speed density.

Needs more Samsonas and Western Sydney GT-R flap

Just saw this video on your YT channel, looks like the Garrett G35-900 is a great match for your setup! Barely even making your way into the red in 3rd at PWC, looks like a touge like circuit.

When you're on the side of the road with a pair of blow head gaskets

Of 7M-GTE head gasket jokes.

If I were you, I would buy them now before every man and his dog does. A full set of Akebono can be had about the $1500 mark used.

If that's the case, I might as well not bother buying things to experiment with

I am going to buy a R33 upright, then will buy a set of those Z1 350Z to 370Z dog bones and see how much I need to mill off the dogbone to allow the Akebono caliper to fit on. Another option is to space out the dogbone, which might require more work. I am not sure how thick the R34 GT-t upright caliper mounting tabs are, as this will influence how everything sits. The caliper essentially needs to sit at the same height as the original calipers. (not my photo)

This!

Sounds like an alternator related issue. What is your voltage like?