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Dose Pipe Sutututu

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Everything posted by Dose Pipe Sutututu

  1. Get farked... I've spent more than enough money on this heap of shit. Next mod is a new car.
  2. Good luck mate, hope you're able to get a response and your parts.
  3. Maybe try hit up that shop that starts with D ends with E on IG DMs. Might be an easier way to make contact? Any chance you can just cancel your H e order? Then just hit up Ben from Third Strike Fabrication and get him to make you exactly what you tried to order. He used to work there.
  4. Let me guess, is does it start with a H and end with an e? Big issues with that lot when it comes to retail customers. Unless you're a big shop, you'll be forgotten about. Someone on IG I talk to had enough, and rocked up unannounced and was ready to crack it but the owner's wife was there, defused the situation and they grabbed the things he needed off the shelf and gave it to him (probably destined for a shop, etc.).
  5. Yeah my current weakest link are the tyres, if I change to proper semi slicks I "might" be able to do 3~5 hot laps, but something else might give instead LOL (this is for the GP Circuit at SMSP) Hence somewhat I'm happy to just run street tyres. Back in the Wakefield days, running Nitto NT01 I was able to do 5~8 hot laps at a time, the only thing that gave up was the brakes OR the motor would push coolant (when I had a stock motor pushing 372kW lol).
  6. Since you'll be heading out to All Shit Box Day, I mean All Jap Day and doing the sprint sessions I suggest this during the 15 minute window Come onto the track, use this time to reacquaint yourself with the lap, then on the T17 start to push Do 2x hot laps 1x cool down 1x hot lap 1x cool down Session over
  7. Better off learning to tune on a stock motor, you don't want to be learning on a built motor that's making 500 to 600kW.
  8. I never bothered take off to check, I saw damage on the head, block scoring and just launched the motor. The cam caps were scored though, looked like metal bits went through the motor, when I drained the oil it looked like glitter lol.
  9. @Murray_Calavera from what I see, the harness bar, and 6 point harness (coming soon), will hold up much better than the factory restraint in a crash. How I see it, it's better than OEM, so survivability increases. Even with a roll cage, on a frontal impact or side impact irs still game over. Will need a full cage to actually make a difference to safety. Hopefully with Wakefield's new owners, we are all able to head back out there again, have fun at lower speeds.
  10. Turn down the boost a little, send its mum
  11. Thanks bro, will definitely slap in some new bushes to give me peace of mind it's less shit. I got it from eBay, here's the link 😊 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/185659350438 Then bought these things to mount the support arms to the floor https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/404023772773
  12. Install the flex sensor. One day you're going to rock up to United on a low tank of fuel thinking you'll fill up, then to find out their tanks are empty. Now you have probably 5L of fuel left in your tank and wonder how you'll get home. That tow truck emergency call out fee + towing fees will cost more than your flex sensor.
  13. Shit box updates. Alignment now done, driver side managed to get -3.5° camber and passenger side only -3.2° with the camber arms fully wound in. I believe the knuckle bushes may be the culprit here, and yes yes @34GeeTeeTee I know I know, hammer hammer rubber hammer good lol. Other than that, used a seatbelt harness bracket to mount the harness bar support to the floor of the car. Should be better that bolt/nut into the side of the body as there's much more material holding it. Used 8.8 tensile zinc bolts, should be "strong" enough. I'll see how serious I get with track nights/days, if the car gets semis put on, then I'll put in a cage too as I would definitely be pushing the car much harder.
  14. I love the salacious drama, even my wife watches it here and there with me and said it's wild LOL.
  15. Watch Drive to Survive on Netflix, somehow that gets me motivated to race lol..
  16. They probably borrowed an American dyno too, so it can read incredibly high numbers too.
  17. Good pads, i.e Not Benshit pads, decent rotors such as DBA5000 or DBA4000, good brake fluid and it's more than enough. For years I was doing track work with the stock brakes on a 372kW R33 GTS-t to give you some perspective - albeit it was a bit sketchy trying to shave speed off turn 2 at Wakefield LOL. Another cheap option besides @Duncan's suggestion is finding a set of R34 GT-t calipers and rotors. They're 310mm, and still use the same DB1170 pad, but with the benefit of additional surface area. I would have recommended 350Z Track Brembos and rotors however it seems like everyone has caught on they can be made to fit the GTS-t so have rocketed in price (probably due to that article I wrote like 10 years ago) lol.
  18. I must be doing it wrong then lol.. Better lower the boost or compression.
  19. We prefer enthusiast opinions more on SAU 😊
  20. Why? I think that person just successfully gamed the dB reader at the track. At Wakefield that setup would be reversed to point to the RHS.
  21. tl;dr no Hondas and no screamer pipes. Cool, my car is compliant - when do we race?
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